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O'er the Atlantic, 

OR 
A JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO AND 1 1^^0M 

EUROPE. 



/ 



\G71nly1n lorivcrth Givynn^ 



A (;RA1>111C, IXTliRESTIXG AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF PIACKS 
AND FA'ENTS, EMBRACING PORTIONS OF 

[^EXGT.AXD, IkELAND, SCOTLAND, WaT.KS, FraXCK, 

x'Vnd the Caxadas. 

Y I.yfr Lwii Leb o'l ll;ifur hir.^gfn'^yl O I 
Ainryw geinion cj'wir ; 
Vndo ceir liaoes eirn-ir, » jk^l^g 

Fer a thf?" dms for a lUir. 

— lor.o \ 





NEW YORK. 

TUr.IilSIlED AND SOI.D FOR THE AL'JIlUR \\\ 

THEfAMERICAN NEWS COMPAN\'. 

Xos. ig &: 2T Nassau Stret-t. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 

W. E. WHYTE, 

In the office of tlie Congressional' Librarian, at Washing- 
ton. D. C. 



.Y7 b^ 



[THE LIBRARY 
iQr CONGRESS 

LfASBINGTON 



TrMrKBANCK Pathjot Pi;i>t, 

^ ITICA, Wf Y. 



To THE AmEI^ICAN CiTIZE 



N 



THE MEMBERS 

OF THE 

'^PITTSTON CALEDONIAN CLUB," 

PITTSTON, PA. 

AS CLANSMEX, AND IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE KIND HOSPI- 
TALITY EXTENDED TO HIM BY THE CLUB ON HIS 
RETURN FROM EUROPE, THIS BOOK IS, WITH 
PROFOUND RESPECT, 

DEDICATED, 

BY THE 



AUTHOR 



1 



CONTENTS. 



PREFACE. 

'I'hc author lie introduces liimscll Is proud of liis 
nativitv His birth The promise of a noble Lord — It 
avails him nothing — Death of his father — His mother 
An only leg^acy — The wolf is kept from the door — The 
last of his father's race — Resides with his grandmother — 
Indulgence — " Sparc the rod and spoil the child" — Don't 
believe in it — Kindness, love and good advice — Hirch 
rods — Chastising children — Education — In a lawyer's 
office — In a mercantile wa}- — In a ship builder's yard — 
Don't like either — Prefers " A life on the ocean wave, a 
home on the rolling deep" — As an apprentice boy on 
board ship — Feelings on embarking — Regret, shame and 
fear — Outward bound — The pilot — A mother's tears — 
" (io ahead slow" — A sailor in dress, if not in experience 
— A mother's last farewell — A full heart — Tears — Sea 
sickness — Wishes he was ashore — Make a better soldier 
than a sailor — A week in purgatory — At sea — A poor 
appetite — All right — St. Jago de Cuba — Yellow fever — 
Homeward bound — Yellow fever again — Deaths at sea 
— A mournful sight — Arrival home — Every inch a sailor 
— The past buried in oblivion — The pride and envy of 
his playmates — Sails to the four quarters of the globe — 
Went in through the hawsepipe and came out through the 



vi Contents. 

cabin window — Is an old salt — Marriage — Abandons a 
sailor's life — Fills various occupations on terra finna — 
Emigrates to this country — Making and keeping money 
two different things — He embraces an opportunity — 
Decides to go to Europe — Diaries and a diary — Leaving 
liome — Arrival in New York — Introduces " C). T. A." 

LETTERS I AND II. 

' SEA JOrRNAL. 

Outward bound — Sandy Hook — A head wind — A strong 
Northeaster — A polite ship — Sickly tributes — A good 
rneal — Sorrow — Death is preferable — A change — Unsea- 
sonable weather — Sociable officers — A mixed company 
An old friend — An idol — System — Shuffle — Divine 
service — A Scotch piper — A fair wind — All sail set — 
Signalizing a ship on the banks — Cod fishing — A 
second attack — Misses an overcoat — Ship's latitudes — 
— Difference in time — Politics and war — Just the thing — 
Beautiful twilight — " Immortality of the soul" — Too deep 
— Sea gulls — A testimonial — Land oh ! — The pilot — 
Moville — The parting — Loch Foyle — Londonderry — 
Irish ])()lice and porters — The hotel. - - 25-23 

LETTER in. 

IRKLAXI). 

Origin of Londonderr}- — Names — The charter — Its gates — 
Bridges — Cathedrals, &c — The siege — A brave man- 
Public buildings — Gents in green — Supposed Fenians — 
The arrest — A polite officer — An honorable discharge — 
Forward. 41 

LETTER IV. 

On through Coleraine, &c — A delightful green — Belfast — 
Population — A rich Marquis — Linen and poplin — The 



Contents. ^'^i 

tirst Bible— Newspapers—Public buildings— Antiquities 
—An old bridge— Botanical gardens— On through Lis- 
burn,&c.,'to Dundalk— An ancient town— Robert Bruce 
—His death — Distilleries— Brewers— Churches— King 
Cormac — Tara's Halls— Dangan Castle— The first 
church— St. Patrick— On again— Slane—Drogheda— 
River Boyne— James H and William Prince of Orange- 
Population— Religious sects— Cromwell— A blot— A 
flying King— Schomberg— The obelisk— Balbriggan*- 
Factories— Swords-Malahide-The castle -An abbey 
—The whistle— Dublin ! Dublin ! ! Dublin ! ! ! - 4S 

LETTER V. 

Dublin— The hotel— Americans— Cost of poplins— Govern- 
ment house — Castle — Chapel — State apartments — 
Cornwallis — Washington— St. Patrick's Cathedral- 
Mr. Guiness-Generosity— Post Office - Nelson monu- 
ment—Custom House-Trinity College-Phoenix Park 
—A sham fight— Zoological gardens— Cemetery— Dan 
O'Connell— Honest Tom Steele— Curran— Mount Joy 
Prison— The Fenian chiefs— St. Stephen's green— Ireland 
and Irishmen— Royal Mail steamship, &c. - - 54 

LETTER VI. 

WALES. 

Holyhead— The breakwater— Government steamers— South 
stack— 365 steps— An ancient monastery— A thick wall 
A Waterloo hero— Tubular bridge— Suspension 
bridge-A long tunnel— Anglesey- Conway castle- 
First Prince of Wales—" Ich Dien "-" Eich Dyn "—The 
meaning Chester— A fine hotel— An old city— its wall 
and gates— Royal persons— The siege -Eton hall— A 
rich nobleman— Servility - The old cathedral -The 
castle — Wrexham— Llangollen— Jenny Jones — Chirk 
Castle— Owain Gwynedd and Henry II. - - 62 



vi Contents, 

cabin window — Is an old sail — Marriage — Abandons a 
sailor's life — Fills various occupations on terra firma — 
Emigrates to this country — Making and keeping money 
two dilTerent things — He embraces an opportunity — 
Decides to go to Europe — Diaries and a diary — Leaving 
liome — Arrival in Xcw York — Introduces " O. T. A." 

LETTERvS 1 AND II. 

' SEA JOITRNAI,. 

Outward bound — Sandy Hook — A head wind — A strong 
Northeaster— A polite ship — Sickly tributes — A good 
meal — Sorrow — Death is preferable — A change — Unsea- 
sonable weather — Sociable officers — A mixed company 
An old friend — An idol — System — Shuffle — Divine 
service — A Scotch piper — A fair wind — All sail set — 
Signalizing a ship on the banks — Cod fishing — A 
second attack — Misses an overcoat — Ship's latitudes — 
— Difference in time — Politics and war — Just the thing — 
Beautiful twilight — " Immortality of the soul" — Too deep 
— Sea gulls — A testimonial — Land oh ! — The pilot — 
Moville — The parting — Loch Foyle — Londonderry — 
Irish police and porters — The hotel. - - 25-23 

LETTER in. 

I RELAX I). 

Origin of Lontionderry — Names — The charter — Its gates — 
Bridges — Cathedrals, <S:c — The siege — A brave man — 
Public buildings — Cients in green — Supposed Fenians — 
The arrest — A polite odiccr — An honorable discharge — 
Forward. - 41 

LETTER IV. 

On through Coleraine, &c — A delightful green — Belfast — 
Population — A rich Marquis — Linen and poplin — The 



Contents. vii 

tirst Bible — Newspapers — Public buildings — Antiquities 
— An old bridge — Botanical gardens — On through Lis- 
burn, &c., to Dundalk — An ancient town — Robert Bruce 
— His death — Distilleries — Brewers — Churches — King 
Cormac — Tara's Halls — Dangan Castle — The first 
church — St. Patrick — On again — Slane — Drogheda — 
River Boyne — James W and William Prince of Orange — 
Population — Religious sects — Cromwell — A blot — A 
flying King — Schomberg — The obelisk — Balbriggan*- 
Factories — Swords — Malahide— The castle— An abbey 
—The whistle— Dublin ! Dublin ! ! Dublin ! ! ! - 4S 

LETTER V. 

Dublin — The hotel — Americans — Cost of poplins — Govern- 
ment house — Castle — Chapel — State apartments — 
Cornwallis — Washington — St. Patrick's Cathedral — 
Mr. Guiness— Generosity — Post Office - Nelson monu- 
ment — Custom House— Trinity College — Phoenix Park 
— A sham fight — Zoological gardens — Cemetery — Dan 
O'Connell — Honest Tom Steele — Curran— Mount Joy 
Prison — The Fenian chiefs — St. Stephen's green — Ireland 
and Irishmen — Royal Mail steamship, &c. - - 54 

LETTER VL 

WALES. 

Holyhead — The breakwater — Government steamers — South 
stack— 365 steps-^An ancient monastery — A thick wall 
A Waterloo hero — Tubular bridge — Suspension 
bridge— A long tunnel — Anglesey— Conway castle — 
First Prince of Wales — " Ich Dien "— " Eich D}^ " — The 
meaning Chester — A fine hotel — An old city — its wall 
and gates — Royal persons — The siege— Eton hall — A 
rich nobleman — Servility - The old cathedral — The 
castle — Wrexham — Llangollen — Jenny Jones — Chirk 
Castle — Owain Gwynedd and Henry II. - - 62 



X Conknts. 

LETTER XIV. 

Windsor Castle — The state apartments — St. George's 
chapel — Elegant memorial window — Divine worship — 
Royal tomb house — Monument — The round tower — 
Terrace grounds— British museum — Sydenham — The 
Crystal Palace — The great orchestra — Two great singers 
— The various courts — American skating floor, &:c. 147 

LETTER XV, 

FRANCE. 

Dieppe — Railway cars — River Seine — Paris — A crowded 
hotel — French language — Paris all France Beautiful 
streets, walks, and drives -Fetes de Napoleon — The 
Emperor — " Palais del' Exposition TTniversalle" — Hotel 
(Ics Invalides, t*v:c. ------ 158 

LETTER XVI. 

"Ilalles Central" — St. Chapelle — Notre Dame — St. Eti- 
enne du Mont — Pantheon— Hotel de Cluny — Palais 
du Luxembourg — Corps Legislatif — Madeline— Place 
\'cndome — Palais du Louvre — Place de la Concorde — 
— Bois de Bolougne — Champs Elysees — Paris generally 
— A red republican guide's opinion — The Emperor — 
Prince Imperial. - . - ... 167 

EETTLR XVII. 

Palace of Versailles - Statuary— Pictures by the mile — Ter- 
races Gardens— Walks — Fountains — Triannons, c^'c — 
— St, Cloud — Sevres— Balloon ascent— Paris again. 175 

LETTER X\'in. 

Strasbourg Clock — Leaving Paris — Normandy — Johnny 
Crapcau — A yard of bread — \"\\\ Ordinaire— Rouen— 



Contenis. x i 

Manchester of France— An obliging Englishman — 
Cathedral — The church of St. Ouen — Place de la Lucelle 
— Joan of Arc — Hotel du Bourgtheroulde— Palais do 
Justice — Notre Dame Le Boscre — River Seine — Dieppe 
— Sea bathing — Manufactures, &c — A rough passage — 
Mean accommodations — London again. - - i8i 

LETTER XIX. 

ENGLAND AGAIN. 

Rest — Houses of Parliament — Westminster Abbe}' — Horse 
guards — Trafalgar Square — Sommerset House — Na- 
tional gallery — Zoological gardens — Madame Tussauds 
— Spurgcon. - - - - . - " _ i8g 

LETTER XX. 

Departure — Euston Square station — London and North- 
western Railway — Sixty-five miles an hour — Delivering 
and receiving the mail — Taking in water — A quick 
ride — Manchester agricultural fair — Cotton factory — A 
variety of people — Departure. - - - -197 

LETTER XXI. 

SCOTLAND. 

On the road — Oxhcnliolnie Junction — An old friend— Sad 
news — Windermere lake — Penrith castle — Carlysle — An 
old friend— Hasty lunch — O'er the border — The land o' 
cakes— The "noble Esk" — Castleton — St. Boswell — 
Newburgh abbey — Newstead — Melrose — The royal 
standard — The Queen — Melrose abbey — The " Lovely 
Tweed"— Abbottsford, Borthwick and Creichton castles 
— Mary Queen of Scots— Firth of Forth— Edinburgh — 
Cockburn hotel — Scott's monument -Princess street — 
Rich and costly jewelry. _ ^ - . _ 204 



X i i ' Contents, 

LETTER XXII. 

Edinburgh castle— The ill-fated Mary— James VI — Prison 
chamber— Scotland's regalia— Opening of the great 
chest — Great joy— no years elapsed— Queen Margaret's 
chapel— Mons Meg— Holyrood Palace— Portraits— 
Darnley — Rizzio — Murder. _ . _ - 212 

LETTER XXriI. 

Chapel royal — King David — Ancient tombstones — Arthur's 
seat— Royal institution — Antiquarian museum — John 
Knox — National gallery — Callow hill — National monu- 
ment — High school — Prison —Knox's house — Regent 
Murray's house— Union cellar — Old Parliament house 
— Allan Ramsay — Sorry to leave — Linlithgow — Faikirk 
— Bannockburn — Stirling. 220 

LETTER XXIV. 

Stirling castle— The Douglass room— The secret chamber — 
The archway — An impolite woman — A jDolite and atten- 
tive soldier — The battlements — Abbey Craig — Wallace 
monument — Beautiful view — An old building — The 
King and Regent— Ancient orthography — The cathedral 
— Beautiful monuments — An odd inscription — Argyle 
Lodge — Lord Darnley and James VI — Bothwell's house 
— The first bawbee — A royal tailor — Balloch — Lochlom- 
ond — Dumbarton — The Clyde — Glasgow — Cobden 
Hotel. - . . ' 225 

LETTER XXV. 

A smoky city -The cathedral — A plain and unpretending- 
sermon — Memorial windows — The Necropolis— Ele- 
gant monuments -Public squares — Royal and other 
monuments — Glasgow University — Wellington monu- 
ment — Shipbuilding — Paisley — Shawls — Lochweinon — 



Contents. xiii 

Curling — Scotch pig iroa — Ardrossan — Firth of Clyde — 
" Land o' Burns" — " Twa Brigs o' Ayr," — The old 
tavern — " Tarn O' Shanter and Souter Johnny" — John 
Barleycorn — " Auld grey mare" — A stormy night. 232 

LETTER XXVI. 

Ayr — Bay of Ayr — Greenan castle — Ailsa craig — The 
parish chnrch — Oliver Cromwell — The Wallace tower — 
On the road — The cottage — The kitchen — The recess — 
The old oak dresser — The old grate — AUoway Kirk — 
The grave yard — The Burns and other graves. - 339 

LETTER XXVII. 

Burns Hotel — The monument — Auld Brig O'Doon — Relics 
— Statuary — " Ye Banks and Braes o* Bonnie Doon" — 
The poet on the banks of the Doon — The Tarn O'Shan- 
ter poem — Scotland and Scotchmen. . - - 247 

LETTER XXVIII. 

Leaving Glasgow — Liverpool— Its docks — Birkenhead — 
Public buildings — Englishmen and Frenchmen — Fare- 
I well — On board the steamship " Peruvian" — Giant's 
causeway — The " Hibernia" again — Waving of handker- 
chiefs — Moville again — The mails — At sea — A stormy 
and cold passage — Icebergs — Belle — Isle — Gulf of St. 
Lawrence — Aurora borealis — River St. Lawrence — 
The Mirage — Island of Orleans — Arrival in Quebec — 
The log — Remarks. - 255 

LETTER XXIX. 

CANADA. 

Quebec — The Caleche — The citadel — A delightful 
view — Prince of Wales — General Montgomery — Plains 
of Abram — " Here died Wolfe" — A great fire — Falls of 
Montmorency — A traitorous bridge — A terrible dis 



xiv Contents. 

aster — Quebec as it was and as it is — Public buildings, 
&c — The steamer " Quebec" — Away up the St. Law- 
rence. -- -- -- -- 263 

LETTER XXX. 

Montreal — Its history in brief — Shipping — Cathedral — 
Churches and public buildings— Jeff Davis — Victoria 
Bridge — Companions du voyage — Still up the St. Law- 
rence — Beautiful scenery — The canal — Prescott — Og- 
densburg — Thousand Islands — Lake Ontario — King- 
ston — An old friend — K distinguished personage — Pop- 
ulation, &c. — Toronto — A long street — Hamilton 
—Niagara Falls— Buffalo— Great Bend— HOME— An 
opinion — Appendix — How to travel — Address before 
the P. C. C. - - - - - - - 270 



PREFACE. 



To THE Readf.r : 

Everything has its aiii/un; and it is in that capacity the 
writer, while a blush suffuses his countenance, modestly 
appears to make \\\s first bo^n {\y\\\\ir\ covers), to an intelli- 
gent and charitable public ; and before introducing " O'er 
jthe Atlantic" to the reader, thinking it will not be out of 
'place, he would fain give a. brief outline of his career through 
life ; — I am the eldest of three brothers, one of whom died in 
linfanc}-, and the other after arriving at the age of maturitv, 
land had I not the good fortune to have been born on the 
other side of the Atlantic, it is more than probable that 1 
might have been ushered into the world on this side or 
elsewhere ; but, as we are the creatures of circumstances, 
we have to be content with wherever our lot is cast, and I, 
with being a Welshman by birth.* a Celt, a Briton, a Cyinro, 
'jitlier will do. for I am proud of my nativity ; and although 
mv career through life has been as diversified as it generally 

'"Although a Welshman by birth, 1 have IVe/sh, English, 
Scotch and Irish blood coursing through my veins — the 
latter three only from the paternal side, my mother being 
purely Welsh. The family name was Giiffifhs. 



xvi Preface. 

! 

is to those who are bora under " certain planets," mine 
being none of the best, I would nevertheless bow submis- 
sively to fate, for I might have fared ivorse yes, much 
worse. 

It was A. D., 1826, on the 17th day of May, that youi 
humble servant first gave utterance to his vocal powers, 
which, noisy as they were, did not exceed the noise on the 

street, for it was election day. Lord J s S — w — t and 

Sir W — y — m L — w — s, were running "neck and neck " to 
represent the good people of our ancient borough in Parlia- 
ment. I forget the rcstdt ! But recollect being informed 
several years afterwards that his Lordship was the suc- 
cessful candidate, and that he had made a promise to 
my grandsire on the maternal side, in return for some littlci 
favors bestowed, that should the squealing youngster up! 
stairs (meaning myself), ever need a friend, I was to applyj 
to him ; and based upon this long pent up promise, whenil 
about iS years of age, I did apply to his Lordship for his influx' 
ence in my behalf to obtain a government appointment, andl 
soon received a very courteous reply stating that unfortu- 
nately at that time his political friends were all out of office, 
otherwise lie would have been very pleased to serve mv inter- 
ests ; but that should the time ever arrive when he could do 
so, he would not forget a promise made so many years before 
to one who had served his interests so zealously. I have 
never heard from his Lordship since. But I am digressing. 

My memory carries me back to when about five years old 
(more or less), at which time my father had the misfortunei 
to fall from off his horse and fracture his skull, a circum-', 
stance, suffice it to say, that ruined the family, for he never' 
was able to attend to business afterwards. He dragged a 



Preface. xvii 

miserable existence for about thiee years, when death at 
last came to liis relief. Leaving to my mother, a woman of 
sterling merit (God bless her memory), an only legacy, that 
of" myself and a younger brother, dependant up^n her own 
exertions for support, which she had already done for years 
prc\ious. Oh I how well do T recollect how she had to 
battle with adversity, and how well she (notwithstanding 
.the difficulties she had to encounter), managed to " keep 
the wolf from the door," and clothed us respectably. Alas 1 
she also has departed for the spirit world, and I, the only 
representative of my father's race that I know of, am still 
permitted to sojourn among mortals. 

A few years after my father's death, I went to live with 
i my grandmother, on the maternal side, and continued under 
Lher hioad aproii'^ and protection until the time arrived for 
:iie to choose for myself the business or occupation in 
which I was to car\-e my way through this old world. 
Grandmothers, as you are no doubt well av.-are, generally 
spoil the members of the succeeding generation, and if an}' 
boy was petted or spoiled, it was my humble self; but with 
Ji good intent, for she invariably rebuked me when saying 
)r doing wrong. It was her warm, kind generous nature that 
evolted against the use of the rod, and the fault (if any) 
,vas in her being too iiiditli^euf, for kindness does much to 
rain youth in the way they should go. I am no believer in 
' spare the rod and spoil the child." Kindness begets love, 
uid love begets obedience. Timely and good advice well 
^iven is, in my estimation, worth all the birch rods in the 
ountry. The parent, in my opinion, only harden youth, 

*The Welsh women wear heavy wide flannel aprons of 
(ripe and tartan pattern. 



xviii Preface. 

and render them cruel in themselves by administering 
corporeal chastisement. But as to m)'self. 

After receiving a common school education, in wiiich I 
made but little progress, I was sent to a relative, an attorney 
by profession, with whom 1 remained some considerable 
time as copyist and errand-boy ; but that kind of life not 
suiting my taste, I was placed in a mercantile establishment, 
which was too conftniu}^ for my roving nature, a few weeks 
therefore, was all I remained there. About this time I had 
a longing for sea-faring life ; to be. a sailor and visit foreign 
climes seemed to be the height of my ambition, which after 
having tried the ship building business, also to no purpose, 
my mother, who was very much opposed to a sea-faring 
life, eventually acceded to my becoming an apprentice boy 

on board the ship E h H s, commanded by a relative 

who traded to the West Indies. 

T shall never forget the feeling that came over me when 
on the eve of leaving port. It was then that my courage 
all but failed me, for I was leaving home. That home 
Avhich, in the language of the song, was "Home Sweet 
Home " to me, to go to a distant land, perhaps never to 
return again. Then my mother, my poor dear mother, 
almost became frantic, for it had entered into her mind that 
she would never see her "darling boy" again. Yes, 
reader, so sad did I feel, that had it not been for shame, a 
fear that my playmates would laugh and jeer at me, I 
would have gone on shore, and thus would have ended my 
idea of a sailor's life. But it was too late to hesitate, the 
vessel was taking in her moorings, and the loud voice of 
the pilot could be heard above the din of the windlass 
and capstan, creaking of blocks and loud singing of the 



Pre/ ace. xix 

few as they cliecrfully pulled in the heavy iiawsers and 
lains, and coiled them away into their respective places. 
ihen came the word to the tug-boat, which was engaged to 
r)w us to the roads or place of anchorage, prior to going to 
Jsa. " Go ahead slow." 1 stood on the deck dressed a la 
■jilor, almost stupefied, and saw my dear mother on the 
uay wave her liandkerchief as her last farewell, for her 
'eart was too full to speak, as the vessel began to gather 
icadway. Then came to my relief a flood of tears, a goodly 
;w, and I felt better. 

I In a couple of hours we arrived in the roads. It was 
jretty rough. The ship rolled, then pitched, and I seemed 
3 be standing first upon my head then on my heels, and 
'ander around the deck like a drunken man, until at last 
had to come t3 m)' moorings, which I did among a lot of 
ope stowed away in the fore-castle, where the tar smelled 
o strong that it added to my malad}-, for I was terribly sea 
ick. At that time I would have given the world, if I 
ould, to have got on shore. There was no sympathy from 
ny one. The rude sailors laughed at me, telling me to 
rink a pail full of salt water,* that then I would be all right 
nd many other such unkind remarks. During the night 
he Captain came on board, and ordered the ship to get 
■nder weigh and proceed to sea, and afterwards inquired 
3r me. He was told that I had been sick ever since the 
hip's arrival in the roads. " Send him aft," was the com- 
aand. Aft I came, first holding on to one thing then another, 
nore dead than alive. Said he : " So you are sea sick, eh ? 

*Salt water is supposed to be an excellent remedy for sea 
ickness, for it has a tendency to strengthen the stomach ; 
mt few are able to take it. 



X X Preface. 

Vou arc a pretty sailor. Make a Ijcttcr soldier than 
sailor, 1 think, (io and wash your face and hands ancbi 
vou will feel better." 1 essayed to do so, but nature ha |e! 
to give wav, and sprawlini^ 1 \\ent down the cabin stai 
moaning pitcously. 

I remained partially in this deplorable condition for i)i 
haps a week, performing such work as 1 was able to d 
during which litTie my stomach refused all nourishmenii 
l)ut at the end of that time " Richard was himself again.' 
On our arrival at St. Jago de Cuba, I was the first victim \'\ 
the vellow fever, and instead of sending me to the hospit:i 
my kind relative sent me to a private boarding house, anc 
although my life was at one time despaired of, under the 
kind treatment of the ladies of the house, I recovcrei 
sufficiently and in time to join the shij) when ready for sen 
In a few days after leaving St. Jago, the yellow fever broki 
out on board, and carried away \\\\\\ it several of c)ur crew 
among them my fellow apprentice, his first voyage like 
myself to sea ;" but I continued to gain strength daily, and 
felt as though the past had been forgotten. We buried them irij 
the deep blue sea, a sad and mournful sight, sowed up iu 
their hammocks, with a hea\T weight attached to their feet 
They were launched over the ship's side into the brin}| 
deep, to become perhaps food for the monsters which' 
inhabit the Atlantic.f 

* I make particular mention of those facts of mv fir^i 
voyage to sea, simply to show my readers that sea-faring 
life w-as not that which my young mind had supposed it 
would be 

f The funeral service at sea is very impressive, and is thai 
which is laid down in the Book of Common Prayer for such 
occasions. 



■ Preface. " xxi 

11 due course of time we arrived home, and once on 
.re the dangers of the past were speedily forgotten, and 
jlt almost a veteran sailor, determined to weather it out 
5ea in all weather and at all hazards. My dear mother, 
en she saw me, shed tears of joy, and I, the weather 
/e'7/. tar of a single voyage to|^ the West Indies, could not 
rain from shedding tears also. Among my old playmates 
/as'^?;^- /«/«??. J With 'a face very nearly as dark as the 
^age, they all courted my acquaintance, and gazed with 
light at my sailor figure, vvhile they listened with wonder 
d admiration to the account I gave them of the voyage, 
y much exaggerated of course ! 

After my boyhood's career at sea, during which time I 
idc several voyages to the West Indies and North 
nerica, I served in various capacities on board ship, 
ring which time I sailed to the four quarters of the 
jbe, and visited some of the leading ports in the East 
d West Indies, North and South America, the Mediter- 
lean Sea, the Dardanelles and the sea of Marmora. But 
would be futile on my part to endeavor to give even a 
:ei account of the places I have visited, and the incidents 
nnected therewidi, as also those attending the life of a 
ilor, with its hardships, privations and hairbreadth escapes^ 
• pleasures there are but few (if any) suffice it to say (in 
xritiine parlance), that "I went in through the hawsepipe 
d came out through the cabin window,"* and have served 
I board ship in almost every capacity, during a period of 



"Which implies iliat a person has thoroughly studied the 
aies of a seaman, thus becoming competent to discharge 
em in every respect. 



xxii Preface. 

al)out 13 years, I therefore lay a decided claim to the till 
old salt I 

In 1848, I was married, and soon afterwards abandonee! 
sea-faring life, and served in various occupations on tern 
firma, some of which were connected with shipping, till 1855 
when I emigrated to this country, with a view to better mi 
condition in life. How successful I have been in that particu! 
lar I leave the reader to guess. I still work for a livintr, ' 
expect to do so during the remainder of my career ; but |j 
find no fault with the opportunities I have had to makJ| 
^noney, perfectly satisfied that to make and to keep it arc 
different things* 

For several years after my arrival in this country I looked! 
forward with much pleasure to the time when circumstances^ 
would permit me to cross the broad Atlantic once more to| 
pay a visit to my native land, and it was not until 1867, and! 
after traveling much in this country (east, west and south), did| 
the opportunity occur. I was not long making up my mind! 
as to the day and date Avhich would see me on board the! 
steamer for Britain, so commenced inmiediately to put myi 
worldly afTairs in order, and as I had been in the habit of 
keeping a diary of the weather and events for many years, 
the thought instantly struck me that I would while on the 
trip keep a diary on a much more extensive scale, of scenes 
and events abroad. Hence " O'er the Atlantic !" 

We left home on a beautiful day in June, when everything 

* With all due respect for Shakespeare's assertion "Thif 
there .s a time in the aff^airs of men, \c.r son fpeoTle make 
•noney by blundering into or out of an enterprise anrno^ 
U-cause they are ...../..than others, but owin^ fi' sireak 



Preface. xxiii 

1 
around the house and neighborhood were dressed in nature's 

best. Sorry were we to leave, and it was not until the ponies 

were driven to the door to take us to the railwa)^ depot did 

the acute pangs of sorrow at parting from those so dear to 

us begin to take effect. A few inaudible words, kisses and 

tears, with a silent pressure of the hand was enough and we 

were gone — gone, we thought, perhaps to return no more, a 

thought which nigh determined us to turn back ; but once 

on board the cars we felt somewhat better, and as we 

approached the great city of New York better still, where 

we arrived that afternoon, quite reconciled to the chances of 

a voyage to Europe. ****** 

In introducing this little volume to the public, I would 
sav that it was not written with the intention of putting it 
before them in its present form, but for insertion in the 
columns of a weekly newspaper, published by a particular 
friend of rnine in Wilkes Barre, Pa., who done me the honor 
to publish the whole of my letters, under the heading " A 
Voyage to Europe," occupying about six months in their pub- 
lication, which, I am pleased to say were read with much 
interest by the subscribers to the Lnzcrne Union, and others 
of my friends and acquaintances, some of whom on my 
arrival home importuned me to publisli them in book form, 
which," after due thought and advice, T concluded to do, 
hence their appearance under a new name and in a new dress. 

In conclusion I would avail myself of this opportunity to 
remark that while I am under many obligations to friends 
in Europe for information, and to KoMs History of Ireland, 
Woodward's History of Wales, Black's Guide, &c' I claim no 
particular merit for the book, but, if I have managed to 
link together facts and incidents connected with the past 



xxiv Freface. 

and 'present liistoiy of tlie places wc \isited interesting to 
my readers, 1 shall feel more than glad that my luimble 
efforts to please have not been in vain. i\''*'^" 

W. E. WHYTE. 
West Pittston, Pa., July 4th, 1870. 



O'ER THE ATLANTIC 



LETTER I. 

AMERICA. 

New York, June ^f/i, 1867. — The Aveather dur- 
ing the last few days has been sultry and hot, so 
much so that it has been quite oppressive. The 
steamship Hibcrnia, of the Anchor Line, Capt. Mun- 
ro, plying between New York and Glasgow, left 
Pier 20, North River, about noon, on her vovage 
across the Atlantic, with a full list of cabin pas- 
sengers, and a great many in the second cabin, 
intermediate and steerage, principally comprised 
of persons going to visit relatives and friends in 
various parts of Europe. Such being my own 
case. My wife and her brother accompanying 
me with a view of seeing scenes and life in the 
"Old World." 

Ar SEA. 

Scarcely had we got oft' Sandy Hook, (where the 
pilot left us) before our fellow passengers began 



26 O'er the Atlantic. 

to feci the inHuencc of a strong N. E. wind 
wliicli, being ahead, made the gallant ship as 
polite as a French dancing master, and ere the 
supper bell had rang, all, with but a few excep- 
tions, were paying sickly tributes to Neptune. 
Thanks to my former experience of a seafaring! 
life, I felt like partaking with a relish of the good 
things so nicely laid out for the evening repast, 
so sat down at the Captain's table with the airs 
of an old salt. At 8 p. m., wind increasing, 
bringing on sea-sickness among the passengers in 
its most terrible form. The cries and moans of 
the poor victims are pitiful to hear, some wishing 
they had never left terra firma, and others almost 
preferring death to the endurance of the malady, 
my wife and her brother not the least among the 
number, but they are fortunate in having me to 
devote that attention to them, which they could 
not otherwise get, for the stewards and stewardess 
have too much to do among so many passengers. 
Midnight.— It now blows a gale of wind and 
the ship is under double reefed fore-and-aft sails, 
and laboring heavy, the more so, in consequence 
of being loaded by the head with seventy-five 
tons of coal, temporarily stowed in the waist* 
before leaving New York, large quantities of 
which is washed away as slie dives under a head 
sea, which put me in mind of an old sea phrase: 
'' He that goes to sea for pleasure may go to h— I 

* Foiwuid Gangway. 



O'er tJic Atlantic. 27 

for pastime." But such is life, for how often do 
we pay for that we do not really enjoy. 

9///. — This is the Sabbath. Wind as yesterday, 
but accompanied with a cold, drizzling rain. All 
the passengers, with the exception of two gentle- 
men and myself, still very much under the dire 
intluence of sea-sickness, a profitable time t(j the 
owners so far as dietinf^ is concerned. Noon — 
Passed a barque bound t(j tlie eastward, but lay- 
iuj:;; too"' under close reefed main topsail, and 
laboring verv heavy, very much moie so than 
ourselves — during the last thirty-six hours we 
have made but little headway. 

10///. — Fine and clear dav with a strong breeze 
from the old quarter (N. E.) Passengers still in 
the arms of Neptune, especially the ladies. Af- 
ternoon — less wind, set more sail, i. e. by shaking 
out the reefs of the fore and aft sails. vSome 
gentlemen passengers have made their appear- 
ance on deck, cutting but a sorry figure, haying 
anything but "sea legs" under them. To-day 
made the acquaintance of Capt. Munro and the 
doctor (Flemington) of the ship, two unso- 
phisticated sociable men. Evening — more mod- 
erate, made the acquaintance of Mr. Reed, the 
chief officer, with whom I had a long talk while 
walking the deck a la sailor, a gentleman I am 
much pleased with. All the officers seem to be 
very gentlemanly and sociable men, just the 

* Hove too. Keeping head to wind and sea as near as 
possible, so as to weather the gale the easier. 



28 0\r the Atlantic. 

kind of men who should officer ;i passenger 
vessel. 

ii///. — A beaiiLifiil niorniJig with pleasant 
breeze, but still ahead. A great many of the 
passengers feel better and are able to sit at the 
breakfast table, a mixed company, comprised of 
Scotch. Iris/i, E/i^i(Iis/i, IVc/s/i and American ; cjf 
Welsh there are only two, myself and a gentle- 
man named Thomas, from Utica, N. V., with 
whom I Avas acquainted eleven years ago, 
since which time 1 had not seen him until 
we met on board, after being two days out 
of New York, when, after some little conversa- 
tion pro and con, we recollected each other — 
glad were we to meet under such peculiar cir- 
cumstances and renew old acquaintance. Mr. 
Tliomas is bound to the same part of Wales as 
myself — his parents reside about twenty miles 
from my native place. We now begin to be 
l)etter acquainted with the officers of the ship. 
C'aj)tain Munro is the idol of his subordinates, 
whom they familiarly term the old man, not 
because he is any older than either of them, but 
because it is a sort of endearment. Mr. Reed, 
the chief officer, is a plain, matter-of-fact man, 
cverv inch a sailor. Not one of those kid glove 
kind, but a whole-soul, straight-up-and-down 
tar of the old school I he passed the principal 
])art of his life in the East India trade, some 
portion as master, and it is presumed that so 
s )on as a vacanc^v occurs in this line he will be 



O'er the Atlantic. 29 

pr(3motecl to cnptain. Mr. Johnson, the second 
officer, is quite a younir man, and one tliat will 
no doubt make his mark in the profession. Mr. 
Henderson, the third officer, is an elderly man, 
and I understand is to succeed Mr. Johnson as 
second on the ship next voyage, for Mr. Johnson 
is to remain on shore to undergo the usual 
examination for promotion before the Govern- 
ment Board of Examiners, which is very strict 
in the British Merchant Marine service, for no 
man is allowed to act as an officer on board of ship 
unless duly qualified to do so, a system we 
Avoidd do well to adopt in the United States 
Merchant Marine. Dr. Flemington and tic 
purser Mr. Brown, tAvo very polite gentlemen, 
make themselves very agreeable, and escort the 
ladies up and down the deck with that gallantry 
so generally unusual among sea-faring men, in 
short, they flirt with the ladies, play with the 
children, and do all in their power to make all 
comfortable and happy. Mr. MacTammany, 
the chief engineer, is also a very pleasant person. 
To-day Capt. Munro introduced a game to be 
played on the quarter deck, called sJiuffle, Avhich 
is simply a number of squares formed of clialk 
lines on the deck and numbered so as to count 
fifteen each wav, then the player stands twenty 
feet off Avith a long stick in his hand, resembling 
a billiard cue rest, and pushes with it a round 
block of wood with a flat surface towards the 
squares, when he that counts the most, which 



30 O'er iJic Atlaniii. 

depends upon wliieli scpiare liis block rests, wins 
the o^anie. This is an amusing and interesting 
game, and not without its excitement, a game 
tliat will serve much to do away with the monot- 
ony of a sea voyage. 

12///. — During the night we had light airs, 
and in the earlv morning a calm. At noon, a 
light wind from the old corner. All the passen- 
gers on deck forgetful of the past, some playing 
shuffle, now becoming quite popular, others 
throwing rope quoits over a wooden peg and 
into a bucket, otliers reading, and away aft are 
some Democrats and Republicans discussing 
American politics, which, I am afraid, will not 
make any of them the wiser, for stubbornness will 
])redominate on both sides. This evening a Rev. 
Mr. Kennedy, assisted by the Rev. Mr. Sprowl, 
from Pittsburgh, held divine service in the cabin, 
and later, a Scotch piper marclied up and down 
the whole length of the ship, as statelv as if a 
lAiird of the Isles, playing upon his bags the 
most popular airs of Scotland, much to the de- 
light and amusement of the passeagers, after 
whicli, the passengers retired to the cabin to en- 
joy a game of chess, checkers, whist, euchre, &c-., 
the Captain, Doctor and Purser Joining in with 
them. 

13''//- — A fair wind and warmer weather, all 
sail set, and a full head of steam on, expect to be 
on the banks of Newfoundland this afternoon. 
2:30 P. M. signalled the American ship West- 



i 

0\r the Atlantic. 3t 

6. 

moreland bound West. Evening — Wind increas- 
ing and shifting to the N. W. Shortened sail. 
Night — Wind more nortlierly accompanied with 
cold rain. 

14///. — This morning light airs, yet we are 
making good headw^ay under steam. We are 
now crossing the banks, in a fog, with the fog- 
whistle going every few minutes,to warn ships that 
possibly may be in our track, of our presence. 
Noon — drizzling cold rain. Evening — passed a 
French barque at anchor, with her boats out 
catching codfish. — Codfishing on the banks of 
Newfoundland is quite an extensive and lucra- 
tive business; during the season hundreds of ves- 
sels of various tonnage, from 100 to 500 tons, 
are engaged in catching and salting the fish, 
after which, they leave for various places to un- 
load and dry the fish for market ; many of those 
vessels, while on the banks, get run down by 
steamers and other vessels crossing to the east- 
ward and westward during the thick fogs wdiich 
generally prevail in these latitudes, and which 
often result in the partial or total destruction of 
one or the other of the ships colliding. It is 
therefore highly necessary to keep a good lookout. 
Steamers, in addition to their fog-whistles, carry 
lights of various colors, one at the foremast head 
and one on each side, starboard and larboard of 
the bridge. Sailing vessels blow a fog-horn and 
keep their bells ringing, which resembles a fune- 
I ral knell, hence every precaution is, or if not. 



32 cycr the Atlantic. 

sliould be exercised to prevent, wliich too often 
occurs, ships getting into collision. — I recollect, 
when in the Quebec trade many years ago, on 
the passage home, crossing the banks during a 
heavy gale of wind from the N. W., it was at 
night, the ship running before the wind under 
double reefed topsails, suddenly and within 
half a cable's length of us a small schooner was 
seen on our starboard quarter, hove too, with the 
helm lashed down"'- and the crew all below. A 
minute or so earlier she must have crossed our 
bows, a narrow escape for her, for had the ship 
struck her we would have run clean over her, 
and sent her and the crew without a second's 
warning into the land of fishes. This w^as in my 
boyhood days, but it seems as though it was but 
yesterday. 

*To dispense witli the services of a man at the helm. 



O'er the Athiuiii. 33 



LETTER II. 

AT SEA, CONTINUED. 

June 15///.— Strong cold northerly wind, and 
long-swelled sea, which causes the ship to roll very 
much, creating among some of the passengers a 
second attack of sea sickness. Noon— we are 
now seven days from New York, and over the 
banks of Newfoundland, going ten knots* per 
hour, distance run, only 1 200 miles, yet, if we have 
luck, mav possibly complete the passage by this 
day week (Saturday). Evening— more moderate 
but still quite cold, causing me to miss very 
much the good services of my overcoat, whicli I 
neo-ligentlv left behind in the railway car at 
Sc?anton, 'Pa. Night— beautifully clear moon- 
light, two hours diflference in time between us 

and New^ York. 

16///— Early morning a dead calm, or what is 
generally termed by sailors, " Paddy's hurricane 
up and down the masts and all over the decks 
and heavy swelled sea, the ship rolls very much. 



* A sea mile. 
A* 



34 O'er tJic Atlantic. 

Six A. M — :i pleasant breeze from tlie west, 
wliicli continued until the afternoon, when it 
veered around to tlie S. W., which enables us to 
set our fore and aft sails as Avell as our square 
sails. Ship going eleven knots. We are now in 
what is termed tlie ''Rolling Forties" (40"'' north 
lat.), where tlie sea is generally in a very turbu- 
lent and excited state, skipping and jumping 
like boiling water. Evening — a drizzling rain 
with the wind from the same quarter but fresh- 
ening. Ship doing well. Divine service was 
lield in the cabin this morning and evening. Rev. 
Mr. Kennedy officiating. 

17///. — This morning it blows a strong gale 
from the S. ^^''., with a verv high sea. Ship going 
thirteen knots under all the canvas and steam 
she can carry — such weather as we are having is 
quite unusual for y////r ; none of us anticipated 
such rougli cold weather this season of the vear. 
Afternoon — wind shifted more to the westward, 
and the ship is running right before it, with the 
sea very high, causing lier to roll and pitch 
heavily — notwithstanding, she proves herself to 
be an excellent sea boat. Most of the passen- 
gers are now confined to their rooms, some sea sick, 
and others for tlie want of "sea legs" to enable 
them to move about. Evening — passed a ship 
on larboard tack* under close reefed main-top 
sail and mizzen stay sail,f bound to the westward. 

*Wiiul oil" tlie rii^ht bow. 

I Hove too, niakins^ little or no lieachvnv. 



CTer fhc Atlantic 35 

Night — more niodenite, divine service lield \\\ 
tlie cabin, the Rev. Mr. Sprowl officiating. 

18///. — Earlv morning — still more moderate, 
with the wind from the N. W. Later — squall v 
with rain and a slight fall of snow (queer Aveather 
for June) all the canvas set and the ship going 
eleven knots. Noon — worked the ship's latitude 
f )r the first time in eighteen vears, the sun's alti- 
tude was 60 deg. 51 min., and the declination 23 
Aq^. 25 min. N., Avhich gave the latitude 52 deg. 
22 min. X. Here our course was changed to 
E.S. E. fron> E. by S. ; difference in time between 
us and New York 3 hours and 15 minutes, and 
distance to Moville, Londonderry, 950 miles, 
fwo p. M — passed and signalled the Montreal 
R. M. S. vS. N'fstorian^ five davs out from Liverpool 
and four from Londonderry. Later — passed 
two sailing ships on the larboard tack,'*' bound 
westward. T^vening — squally, with rain and 
hail. 8 p. M. a committee met to draft a testi- 
monial, testifying our appreciation of the very 
gentlemanly and polite attention paid us by the 
captain and his officers during the passage. We 
have now become as members of one family and 
begin to feel some regret at the prospect of a 
speedy separation, for notwithstanding the in- 
clemency of the Aveather, we have passed ten 
days together in the most sociable and agreeable 
manner. A difference of opinions has certainly 
often occurred, for instance, on politics, and the 

*Wind ofl" the left bow. 



36 0\r tJu' Atlantic. 

relative abilities of Generals Grant, McClellan, 
Sherman and others, all of which occurred in 
i^ood feeling and Avithout anger. 

19///. — An exceedingly fine morning, neither 
too warm nor too cold, a pleasant breeze continues 
from the N. W. with a moderate sea, the ship 
going from ten to eleven knots. Noon — passed 
and signalled the steamer lowa^ of this line, 
Avhich left Glasgow on the 14th inst., and Lon- 
donderry on tlie 15th, bound to New York. — 
Afternoon — Avind shifted round to the nortliwest. 
ravening — the wind still drawing a;head ; 8 p. m., 
wind from X. E. ; ship close hauled"^' but going 
her course S. E. bv E., 1-2 E., it has again be- 
come quite cold. Night — fresh breeze, and "all's 
well" is heard from the ({uartermaster as he 
strikes tlie hcnir on the bell, which is promptly 
responded to bv the lookout man on the forecas- 
tle deck. 

How different the evenings are in these lati- 
tudes to what they are in Ncav York and Penn- 
sylvania; there, almost as soon as the sun sets, 
darkness covers tlie earth, but here avc have 
hours of beautiful twilight, which must be seen 
to be appreciated, and now, at 10 p. m., we can 
sec to read on deck. Such a beautiful soft light; 
and I am informed by the captain that in Glas- 
gow, at this season of the year, it continues to 11 
o'clock almost as light as day, thus making the 
night very short, for the sun rises as early as 3 

* Sails phiced so as to ho of some benefit. 



0\r the Aila?itic. 37 

h. .^r. How delightful this must be to those per- 
sons engaged in field labor, and who wish to 
evade working out in the heat of the day. How 
pleased the hard working man in America would 
be if he could, during the summer months, enjoy 
such a privilege. 

I have now made up mv mind to go ashore at 
Londonderry and go from thence, via Belfast and 
other places, to Dublin by rail, thence by the 
government mail steamer to Holvhead, &c., which 
Aviil give us an opportunity to see a great deal of 
Ireland, leaving Scotland until our return home- 
ward. 

20///. — Liglit and variable wind, ship going her 
course under steam, square sails furled, and fore 
and aft sails drawing but slightly.* Noon — 
pleasant with smooth sea. Distance to Moville, 
Londonderry, 468 miles. Afternoon — furled all 
sails, they being of no use, ship going nine knots 
under steam alone. Evening — the same. 

This evening a Dr. Maxon, of Geneva, N. Y., by 
special request of the captain and officers of the 
sliip, delivered a lecture in the cabin on the "Im- 
mortality of the Soul." The subject was well 
handled by him, but it was too deep for the cra- 
niums of ordinary persons. The doctor is on 
his way to Paris and other cities of the 
Old World to gather more information and to 
dive further into metaphysics. He is no doubt 
an exceedingly talented man, and has, I am 

* Doing but little good. 



^^S 0\i- llif Aflantic. 

inlorincd. written and j)ublishcd sonic very 
excellent \v(n-ks relating to the medical profes- 
sion. II p. M — beautiful t\vilio:ht. most of the 
passenc^ers on deck. 

2\st. — A fine but li^iht breeze, and from a point 
which enal;les us to carry fore and aft sails. 
The captain expects to make Torry Island (forty 
miles from Movilie) to-morrow morning from 6 
to 7 o'clock, or some point on the west coast of 
Ireland earlier. Lots of Irish coast sea gulls 
hover around the ship now, a sure indication 
that we are ncaring land. Afternoon — cloudy, 
with appearance of rain. Evening — beautiful 
twilight. Capt. Munro was presented this evening 
alter divine service, by the Rev. Mr. Kennedy^ 
with the written testimonial signed by the cabin 
and second cabin passengers, expressive of the 
feeling they entertain for him and his officers. 
Tiie presentation speech was made bv Mr. Ken- 
nedy and replied to in a few happy remarks by the 
captain, on behalf of himself and officers. Res- 
olutions were then made that copies of the testi- 
monial be published in Glasgow, Londonderry 
and New York newspa])ers. 

22d. — Early morning, a pleasant breeze from 
the same cjuarter. Land Avas seen at 5 a. m, on 
our starboard bow (the western coast of Ireland); 
at 6 A. M. sighted the island of Torry; at 1:30 
])assed closely to the R. M. S. S. St. Andrew, of the 
>b'nrreal line, outward bound, the passengers of 
wITk li clieei-ed us lustilv as we passed bv. 3 p. -vr. 



O'er tJic A ti antic. 39 

vSaw the stcamsliiji Britaiiia, of this line, outward 
bound, but too far to signal her. At 3:30 the 
pilot came on board, and we soon got oft' the 
village of ]Moville, where tlie steam tug came 
alongside and took oft' all those g<^»ing to Lon- 
donderry, We soon cast off from the big ship'-' 
amid the cheers and waving of handkerchiefs by 
those we left behind to proceed further, and then 
steamed up Lough Foyle against wind and tide ; 
at 6 p. M. we arrived alongside the quay in Der- 
rv, and were soon besieged with custom-house 
officers and porters, the one eager to examine 
our trunks, and the others fighting and scramb- 
ling among themselves, as to wdio should convey 
them to the hotels and elscAvhere, which was at 
last settled, but not without some knock-downs 
between them and the police, of wdiom there was 
a good sprinkling. After some difficidty I succeed- 
ed in getting our baggage through tlie hands of the 
officers, and into the hands of a decent kind of 
Irishman porter, who conveyed them on a hand- 
cart to the Commercial Hotel, one of the best 
hotels in the city of Derry, where we were soon 
comfortably seated at our evening repast, com- 
posed of beef steak, (fine and tender) fresh 

* Unfortunately, this fine ship, in a little more than a 

year afterwards, was lost. She went doAvn when 700 miles 

oft' the Irish coast, caused by the breaking of her shaft in a 

heavy sea. This was on the 25th of November, 1S68. and 

I among the lost was Mr. Reed, the first officer, and the 

I chief-engineer, Mr. MacTammany. Among the saved were 

I Tapt. Munro, and the purser, Mr. Brown, together with 

j some others of the crew and a few passengers. 



40 O'er the Atlautic. 

cockles (snuill shell fish), good bread iind butter 
and delicious tea, which was served up in good 
style, amid much bowing and scraping, exceed- 
ing polite attention. 

In my next I will gi\-e a brief account of W\\\ 
ancient citv and its walls. 



O'er the Atlantic. 41 



LETTER Iir. 

IRELAND. 

Londonderry.--" There are not," says KohVs Irc- 
hifid, "any authentic records of Londonderry, but 
for many centuries, up to the reign of Queen Eliz- 
abeth, its history is almost ecclesiastical, its name 
Doire, from the old word Dru or Dreiv, signify- 
ing an oak wood, has been preserved. The 
island of Derry itself, and the entire district sur- 
rounding it, having been covered with a dense 
forest at one time, in the tenth century, it went 
by the additional name of Calgaic or CalgacJi^ 
the name of some renowned warrior, signifying 
the oak wood of tlie warrior; later it went by 
the name of Doire-choliom-cille, or Dt'r?y-Co- 
Iiimb Kille^ in honor of a Saint Columb, a native 
of Tyrconnell (Donegal); still later it went by 
the name of Termon-doire, or Tcn)iondcrr}\ 
from the Termon or free lands belonging to an 
abbey erected in the neighborhood. All these 
names gave place in 161 2 for the prefix London, 
hence Londonderry, when a charter was granted 
it in that name by James the first. The charter 



42 



0\'r the Atlantic. 



was oranted to a c()in})any of London merchants, 
who advanced the necessary means to incorpo- 
rate tlic city. Tlie river up to the city derived 
its name thus : Febail-mee-Loddin, or Farel the 
son of Loddin was drowned in the Lough, hence 
Lough-farel or Foyh\ which means a slow floAV- 
ing stream." 

At this time the town or village consisted only 
of one long street of huts or cabins built of 
rough timber and nuid, and a cell or crypt plant- 
ed here by St. Columb was then called Duible- 
regles, or Duo-Regies (black cell), and thence to 
IJlack Abbey Church, which was situated in the 
dense part of the grove near to the spot on 
which the present Roman Catholic Cathedral 
stands, which in 1164 was torn down and rebuilt 
much larger, and called Teampull-mor (more 
Temple); the present parish is QTiW^^TcmpIcmore. 

A great portion of the present inward city* was 
built by the citizens of London in the reign of 
James the first, and fortified with extensive and 
substantial walls for defence, having no less than 
six gates or main entrances, called respectively 
l^i shop's gate. Ship Quay gate. New gate. Ferry 
gate. Castle gate and Old gate. 

There are two bridges across the Foyle, one a 
very handsome structure, built of iron, and the 
other of \vood. I make mention of those more 
particularly, because the latter, I was informed, 

* That part williiii tin- walls. 






0\'r the Atlantic. 43 



was built by an American in 1791, at an outlay 
of nearly ;^2o,ooo, or $100,000; there are also 
here a Monument and two Cathedrals, the former 
erected to the memory of the Rev. George Wal- 
ker, the brave and undaunted defender of the 
city, when assailed by James the second's troops 
in 1688. The cathedrals are of gothic architec- 
ture, one Protestant and the other Roman Cath- 
olic. I had the pleasure of attending divine 
service in the former on Sunday, and was very 
much pleased with the services, especially the 
singing, and the high tones of a very fine organ, 
which made the old building vibrate. In- this 
cathedral hang some of the colors used during 
the memorable siege. 

In 1688 the city was besieged by James the 
second for one hundred and five days, during 
which time the inhabitants suff'ered mucli for the 
want of the commonest necessaries to sustain 
life ; indeed, to such extremities were they reduced, 
that they had to partake of dogs, rats and otiier 
ivermin to satisfy the pangs of hunger, thousands 
dying of actual starvation. They were eventually 
[rescued from this terrible state by the arrival of 
ships of war loaded with provisions, &c., which, 
after some fiofhtino- with the enemv assembled 
t)utside the walls, succeeded in relieving them, 
ind the next day after their arrival the enemy 
ivas seen to be in retreat. Thus ended one of 
:he most terrible seiges ever known, and during 
vvhich there were killed and died of luinger 



44 



0\-r the Afhintic 



about 10,000 soldiers and citizens. Tliis was 
during the eventful war between James the sec- 
ond (catholic) on the one side, and William, 
Prince of Orange (protestant), on the other. — 
Father-in-law against son-in-law. The catholic 
armv outside the walls was under the com- 
mand of Lord Antrim, while the city we may 
say was under the immediate command of 
the Rev. (Tcorge Walker, who had been elected 
Governor, to whose indomitable will and un- 
flinching courage is to be attributed the success 
of the protestant army. 

There are several fine buildings here, among 
which are the bishop's palace, on which spot the 
old antiquated abbey stood in the early days of 
Derry; a gothic church on James street; the 
chapel of Ease, a plain and unassuming build- 
ing, erected at the expense of one bishop Barnard, 
in 1768, tlie pastor of which is paid from a fund 
bequeathed by the bishop for that purpose. The 
roman catholic cathedral stands on the spot 
where stood the '' Teampidl-mor, Temple-more, 
Cireat Church," and has in it a splendid new or- 
gan, and a very fine altarpiece by Haydens. It 
is built very much after the style of the protestant 
cathedral, faced with Irish granite and decorated 
with Scotch free-stone, and cost an enormous 
amount of money, the amount I did not learn. — 
i'here are also what are called meeting-houses 
(rluirches) here, four of which are Presbyterian. 
A large infirmary or hospital erected in 1810. A 



O'er the Atlantic. 45 

iunatic asylum of imposing appearance. Gwyn's 
charitible institution, affording a comfortable 
home for male orphans, and erected from the 
proceeds of a bequest made by a Mr. Gwyn, linen 
merchant of tlie city. 'J1ie Foyle and Magee 
colleges are beautiful buildings, and well worth 
a visit. The former was built by public sub- 
scription, while the latter was built from the 
funds appropriated by a Mrs. Magee of Dublin 
to build a college for tlie education of clergymen 
for the presbyterian churcli. There are also sev- 
eral very excellent schools here, foremost among 
which is the national m(jdel school, a beautiful 
gothic building, and lastly a very fine building- 
appropriated to a library, newsroom, chamber of 
commerce, &:c. It is here is located Mehan's 
celebrated distillery, so well known in America 
for its manufacture of the ''cravter" (whiskey). 

I will now. before taking leave of Londonderry, 
avail myself of the opportunity to allude to a 
circumstance whicli transpired just as we were 
on the eve of leaving for Belfast, and which de- 
tained us some considerable more time in Derry 
than we expected. It appears that the Britisli 
Consul at New York put some document in the 
hands of the purser of the steamer just as the 
ship was leaving her dock, addressed to the 
Chief of Constabulary at Londonderry, stating 
that there was a man and his wife among^ the 
passengers going to Derry, who, he was informed, 
were Fenian emissaries, having in their posses- 



46 O'er the Atlantie. 

sion iiiii)(>rtaiit documents for delivery in Ireland. 
Wlio the man was, was not known to any person 
on board, but on Monday morning about 
break-fast time, tlie Commercial liotel, Avas 
besieged with gentlemen dressed in dark 
green cloth, equipped a la niilitairc, who guarded 
strict! V the hotel entrances and to every room 
therein ; trunks were ordered to be unlocked and 
emptied of their contents, and innumerable ques- 
tions asked, which occupied quite a time, till at 
last a man called Birch was inquired for, and on 
his being pointed out to tlie officer in command, 
he was immediately put under arrest and kept a 
strict watch over until everything he had with 
him, and about him and his wife, had undergone 
a rigid search, and he had rendered a good and 

, satisfactory account of themselves. Nothing was 
found or elicited justifying their detention, so 
they were set at large, when the captain of the 
force apologised for the inconvenience and delay 
caused us, remarking, " but such, gentlemen, are 
our duties. My orders are to obey even if it 
breaks masters." Turning to me and politely 
taking my arm he led me aside, addressing me 

at the same time, "your name is W , sir, I 

believe." " Yes sir," I replied. " From the descrip- 
tion given me by Mr. Murray, the agent for the 

'CAnchor Line, I took you to be the person. You 
are one of the American local agents for the line, 
Mr. Murray informs me." I replied, "I am." 
''Then sir," said lie, '* 1 will not trouble vou or 



I 



^ f O'er tJic AthiiiHc. 47 

your lady to unlock ycnir trunks, and indeed, I 
am of the opinion, now that I have searched this 
man Birch, that there are no Fenians among you, 
and I can only account for the British consul's 
information, that this man must have had an 
enemy Avho was determined to persecute him 
on his arrival in this country."* He then, after 
very politely wishing us good bye and good speed, 
ordered his men from off the premises, and then 
took his leave, much to the satisfaction of us all, 
who began to pack up, lock up and strap down 
for our journey onwards, we taking our depart- 
ure for Belfast direct. 

■This proved to be the case, for, on his arrival liome, he 
learned that a clerk who had been in his emplo)-, and with ^ 
whom he had quarrelled, had done it for revenue. 



48 0\r the Atlantic. 



LETTER IV. ^ 

IRELAND, CONTIN LED. 

Hklfasi". — We arrived liere after passing 
through Coleraine, Ballynioncy, Antrim, Car- 
rickfergus and other intermediate phices, a most 
beautiful C(nintry, well may it be called the 
" Emerald Isle," for a more delightful green than 
that of the fields sown with llax, wheat, &c., never 
was seen. Here and there we saw the peasantrv 
at work, nujwing hay, and others cutting turf 
and piling it up inneat piles to dry, large quan- 
tities of which is used for fuel throughout the 
country; and which kindles equal if not better 
than coal. 

Belfast has a po})ulation of 130,000. "This 
great and astonishing city," writes Kolil, " with 
all its houses and inhabitants, stands upon the 
territory of one pro})rietor, the Marquis of 
Dfmegal, to whom the whole town belongs and 
to whom every citizen pays tribute." I informed 
myself that this nobleman's income from the 
town alcjne amounts to ^'300,000 per annum, or 
§1,500,000. 'Die whole of this vast property is 



0\'r the Athmtic. 



49 



situated on the river Lagan, which flows into 
Belfast Lough. The harbor, which is verv fine, 
derived its name from the Irish Beal-nafarsad, 
which signifies tlie '' mouth of the ford," where- 
on the town is situated. The city is celebrated 
for its manufacture of linen and poplin, whicli 
gives employment to about 60,000 persons (male 
and female.) The first Bible (i, e. in all Ireland), 
was printed here and published in 1794. It was 
here the oldest Irish periodical, the Weekly Mag- 
azhie, was originally published, (see Kohl's Ire- 
land), and at present the following newspapers 
are published here : Be/fast A'en's Letter^ estab- 
lished 1737, and issued now daily ; Morning Neivs^ 
Banner of Ulster, and the Ulster Observer, all tri- 
weekly papers. There are numerous and very 
fine buildings in Belfast, among which I will 
name the Museum, in College Square, in which 
there is a very fine collection of Irish antiqui- 
ties. Linen Hall, Donegal Square, erected in 
1715, at a cost of ^10,000, where all the business 
appertaining to the linen trade is managed. 
Ulster Hall, on Bedford street, used for public 
meetings and concerts, and will seat 3,000 per- 
sons. In this hall is a very powerful and excel- 
lent organ, and the front of the building is 
adorned with six very massive columns, which 
gives it a very imposing appearance. Then there 
are the Music Hall, Model School, the Govern- 
ment School of Design, and a great number of 
churches, chapels, &c. The Queen's bridge. 



50 



O'er the Atlantic. 



which now occupies the place of the great old 
bridge, built in 1682, consisting then of twenty- 
one arches, very much damaged by Schomberg's 
cannon passing over it, is now an elegant struc- 
ture, with its five arches of great length instead 
of the old twenty-one. 

The botanical garden we were informed is well 
worthy of a visit from the stranger, especially 
to those who are fond of flowers, plants, &c., of 
which there is a very elegant and carefully 
selected assortment. 

We wuU now take leave of Belfast and pass 
through Lisburn, Lurgan, Armagh, Portadown, 
along the granite Mourne mountains, getting a 
glimpse of Rosstrevor, Warren point and Newry 
on our way to — 

DuNDALK. — This is truly an ancient town, and 
was at one time fortified; the ruins of the avails 
still remain. Dundalk can boast of being the last 
place where a monarch was crowned in Ireland. 
This was Robert Bruce, of Scotland, who, at the 
Irish request, came over after the battle of Ban- 
nock-burn. He landed with a large army and 
took Dundalk by storm, "and resided here in 
great splendor until 1318," (Kohl's his. I.) when 
it was retaken after a dreadful battle, or series of 
battles by the English, and Bruce killed. 

There are some distilleries, breweries and flour 
mills located here, and the principal trade is done 
with Liverpool. The public buildings are a fine 
old Parish church, a handsome Roman Catholic 



O'er the Atlantic 



51 



chapel, Presbyterian and other meeting houses, 
National bank, &c. The seat of Lord Roden is 
open to the curious, the mansion is a very fine 
turretted building and the grounds are beautifully 
laid out. Having no time to spare to visit the 
interior I have no further description to give of 
this fine mansion. 

Leaving Dundalk we proceeded on our way, 
passing by Tcira^ the most interesting spot in all 
Ireland. " Here the magnificent palace of Kins* 
Cormac and his brave champions stood. The 
place is called Temar from Teagh-mor, the Great 
House, or Teagh-mor-ragh, the gi'eat house of the 
King." (K. H. I.) The poet Moore sings of 
'• Tara's Hall" : 

" The harp that once through Tara's IJalls 

Tlie soul of music shed, 
Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls, 

As if that soul were fled." 

On we sped pass Dangan castle the birth place 
of the hero of Waterloo (the late Duke of Wel- 
lington) and Duleck (Damhleac) i. e. the stone 
house, where the first stone church in Ireland 
was built by St. Patrick in the fifth century. 
Leaving behind us Slane and Xew Grande, we 
arrive in — 

Drogheda. This ancient town is situated on 
the banks of the river Boyne, so celebrated in 
Irish history, coupled with the names of James 
the second, and William, Prince of Orange. It 
has a population of probably 20,000 inhabitants, 



r. O'er the Atlantie. 

one-halt' of which arc Roman Catholics, and 
lies in the counties of Meath and Louth. The 
town was at one time surrounded by a w^all, 
])ortions of which still remain, as also two of 
tlie gateways, fine old ruins. Drogheda is 
directly opposite Liverpool, distance 135 miles, 
and has a very good harbor. In the days of 
the English Commonwealth, Cromwell lead an 
armv in person against this town and defeated 
the garrison. Two thousand persons under 
arms were by his orders put to the sword, 
including the (rovernor, Sir Authur Astan — a 
blot in the life of Cromwell never to be erased. 
On the north side of the river stands an Obelisk, 
erected on the battle field of the Boyne, which took 
jjlace on the first of July, 1690, between the 
Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James 
tlie second, when the latter was defeated and 
obliged to fiy as fast as horse could carry him to 
a seaport down the coast, where on his arrival at 
a castle he accosted the lady who received him, 
witli '" Madam, your Irishmen run like deer." 
'' So I w()uld suppose, from the appearance of 
your Majesty, who it appears has run much 
faster." The Obelisk marks the spot where 
William commenced the attack, as also where 
Scliomberg, the military commander of Ireland, 
was killed. 

We will now bid adieu to Drogheda, 
the scene of so much merciless slaughter and 
cruelty, and push on through the quaint and old 



O'er the Atlantic. 53 

fashioned place, Balbriggan, so celebrated for its 
manufacture of stockings, socks, &c., remarkable 
for their fineness and durability. One of its 
factories has been in existence since 1797, 
and employs 200 hands. On we go at a furious 
rate through Swords to the village of Malahide, 
where we get a view, while the iron horse 
draws breath, of the fine old castle, the residence 
of Lord Talbot de Malahide, erected principally 
during the reign of Henry second, and also an 
abbey of very ancient date. Hark! The guard's 
shrill whistle is heard again, a signal for the 
train to move on, and in a few minutes we are in 
the great metropolis of Ireland, i. e. tlie railway 
station, amid guards and porters lustily calling 
out, "Dublin! Dublin!! Dublin!!!" several 
times over, and the noise of luggage cars 
coursing up and down the platforms. More n/ioji. 



54 O'rr the Aflantic. 



LETTER V. 

1 RF.LAMJ, CONTIXUEl). 

DuBLix.— Here we arrived late at night and 
were quickly driven in a cab to tlie An<-el Hotel, 
on Inn's Oiiay, where we were recommended to 
go by a gentleman whose acquaintance we made 
on board the train fnjm Xewry. We found it not 
exactly what we would like, but when at breakfast 
the next morning, in the coffee room, we had the 
pleasure of meeting and making the acquaint- 
ance ot^ a Mr. Sause and his daughter, fnmi 
Iroy, X. v., xvho, like ourselves, were'-afther 
taking a look at ould Ireland." He was a native 
ot the Green Isle, but had been absent for many 
years and had receni.'v been on a visit to his aged 
mother in the south. TI.ev had just come from 
llie lakes of Killarney, and were on their wav 
across the channel to visit Paris. We passed a 
very pleasant time together, for our tastes and 
ideas were similar.'-'' 

S sincc'TnlrV''" ';'"'';"" "^^^^^'■••^J interviews with Mr. 
mnSs':^'l -il^ilv:^^""^ '" acquaintance of the other 



O'er the Athintie. 



55 



The city can be reached in eleven hours from 
London via Holyhead in North Wales, from 
which point the Royal mail steamers leave thrice 
daily for Kingston, thence on here by train, an 
expeditious route, which is quite a convenience to 
the traveling public. I will now proceed to give 
you a brief account of the metropolis of Ireland. 

It is situated on the banks of the river Liffey, 
w^hich river runs through the centre of the city. 
Here much of the celebrated Irish poplins are 
manufactured, which can be purchased at from 
5 to 6s. per yard {$1.50 in gold), and here are 
very many fine buildings, public and commercial, 
a few of which we visited, and among which, first 
and foremost, I w^ill name the government house, 
castle and chapel, (the Lord Lieutenant's place of 
abode.) We were, in return for a small fee, 
politely shown through the various state apart- 
ments, by the lady and gentleman in charge 
during his Excellency's absence in London. The 
castle itself is not of a very imposing appear- 
ance. It was built for the defense of the peace- 
able inhabitants against the aggressions of 
unruly neighbors, for nothing but strength 
seems to be their idea in its construction. 
There are two towers, one called the Bedford 
and the other the Birmingham ; no access can be 
had to either of those, for they are used as gov- 
ernment archives. The Viceregal chapel, of 
beautiful external and internal appearance, is 
used bv the Lord Lieutenant and his household. 



56 0\r the Atlantic. 

Around tlic gallery, arc carved tlic arms of tlie 
various Lord Lieutenants from 1173 to 1814, 
wliile those of later date are on the painted win- 
(iows. All the seats, desks, etc., are of richly 
carved oak, and over the altar window, which 
represents the passion, beautifully blended in 
colors, are elegant figures of Faith, Hope and 
Charity. We pass from this beautiful little place 
of worship, and enter into the Viceregal apart- 
ments. The first room is the Presence Chamber, 
containing the throne of the Representative of 
Royalty, which we had the honor of seating 
ourselves on, a circumstance, rest assured, that 
did not improve our condition religiously, 
morally or politically. This room is richly fur- 
nished with hangings embroidered with gold, 
'i'he next room Ave were taken into was the 
Council Chamber, which contains rare and beau- 
tiful portraits in oil, of Viceroys, commencing 
with the Marquis Cornwallis, the same Corn- 
-luallis who had the honor of surrendering his 
sword, many years ago, to the " Father of his 
country," — the immortal Washington, after which, 
in 1800, he was made \'iceroy of Ireland, 
with the title of Marquis. From this room we 
l)assed into the pri\ate drawing room, gorgeously 
furnished, and lastly into St. Patrick's hall, used 
occasionally as a ball room. On the ceiling is a 
large painting of George III, supported bv 
justice and liberty, St. Patrick preaching to the 
native Irish, and the submission of the Irish 



\ 



O'rr the Aflantii. 57 

chiefs to Henry II, one of whom is in the act of 
delivering tlie keys of the ix)rtress to Henry. 
After going through some other apartments, 
richly furnished, but of no note, we took our 
leave, and drove to see the exterior of St. Pat- 
rick's cathedral.* This venerable pile is situated 
on the spot where St. Patrick had a well to bap- 
tize his converts, and there built a place of 
worship, which stood in 890. The present 
cathedral was partlv erected in 1190, for a por- 
tion of it was destroyed by fire in 1362, after 
which much was added to it by Archbishop 
Minot in 1370; the present steeple is of this 
date. Mr. (ruiness, the great Dublin brewer, 
generously expended, since i860, upon this vener- 
able building, upwards of ^100,000, or $500,000 ; 
thus it has been nearly restored to its original 
beauty. Taking our departure from here avc 
went to the general post office on Sackville 
street, and nearly opposite the Nelson monu- 
ment. The post office is a beautiful building, 
surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercy and 
Fidelity. The Nelson monument is a fluted 
column of 121 feet high, and cost $40,000, raised 
among Irishmen who admired the naval genius 
of the hero of so many battles, and who ended his 
brilliant career Avith that of Trafalgar. We 
afterwards visited the custom house, Trinity 
college and other public buildings of imposing 
and very fine architecture. 

* It was not open to visitors at that time. 

B* 



58 O'er the Atlantic. " ""^ 

Next (lay we drove to Phoenix })ark in a Jaunt- 
ini:; car, whereon you are seated back to back, over 
the wheels, a peculiar vehicle to Ireland alone. 
There we witnessed a sham fight, and a review of 
the troops stationed here, a very magnificent sight. 
There were upwards of 3,000 men underarms, the 
music of the bands was very fine, and the move- 
ments of both men and horses remarkably pre- 
cise. Indeed, they seemed to move like machine- 
ry, and a delightful place is Phoenix park. We 
drove from there to the Zoological gardens to sec 
the wild beasts, thence to Glasnevin cemetery, 
where there are monuments equal to any I have 
seen in Greenwood, New York. On our arrival 
we were not long before our attention was 
attracted to the spot where rest the remains of 
the great Daniel O'Connell. They but tempor- 
arily rest where they are at present, which is a 
vault with an iron gateway; the massive sarco- 
phagus rests on stands, with the large wreath of 
evergreens and flowers used at the fu'neral laying 
on top, and still looking remarkably fresh and 
green. The name " O'Connell " is rudelv written 
on a board o\er the doorway. When surveying 
the place I could not avoid remarking to mv coni- 
panions that -Here, indeed, lies Ireland's great 
agitator, whose memory will remain in the hearts 
ot his countrymen as green as the fields of their 
native Isle." Soon the remains will be removed to 
then- last resting place, now in course of con- 
struction, over which is a granite round tower 



O'er the Atlantic. 59 

160 feet high, erected in the old tower style (i. e. 
the old Irish round tower.) It is anything but 
beautiful, but can be seen for miles away as 
marking the spot where rests all that was ever 
mortal of the great agitator. The space around 
the tower is surrounded with a deep moat, and in 
the vault, opening into this moat, are the remains 
of Steele, O'Connell's staunch friend. Above 
the door is written " Plonest Tom Steele." We 
passed away from here, and next visited the 
tomb of Curran and other past celebrities, who 
have gone to that distant home never to return 
among us again. Leaving here, we proceeded to 
the city, passing on our way the celebrated 
Mount Joy prison, wherein ^were incarce- 
rated the Fenian chiefs, McCafferty, Burke, 
O'Brien* and others of the brotherhood. I cer- 
tainly felt very much for those unfortunates, 
doomed as they are to pass the remainder of their 
days within prison walls, subject to the coarse ad- 
dress and command of their keepers. McCafferty 
I had seen in New York, when making his speech 
as special envoy from Stephens, before a Jones' 
Wood audience. Poor fellow, he was then full 
of hope, and his proud and defiant eye glistened 
when recounting, as he affirmed, his country's 
wrongs. 

After visiting St. Stephen's Green, where there 
are fine statutes of George II. and of the Earl of 

* O'Brien has been released on certain conditions, and I 
have since made his acquaintance at Troy, N. Y. 



60 (yrr tin- Aflantic. 

Ei>liiUun, once Viceroy of Ireland, the bank of 
Ireland, and other places of note, we prepared to 
leave the Emerald Isle to cross over to Wales. 
Hut a few remarks about Ireland and its people 
will not be inappropriate before taking my leave 
of their country. 

Ireland, no doubt, is one of the finest and most 
fertile countries in the world, and abounds with 
precious minerals which, with its tlax, linen and 
other trade, is sufficient to supplv thrice the labor- 
ing community thereat present; but while the 
rich Irish nobility or property holders will persist 
in going abroad to spend that which they should 
spend among ^their tcnantrv and in the country 
generally, but poor hopes remain for Ireland; 
for if poverty, of wliicli I must acknowledge I 
saw no more there than I have elsewhere,^" is to be 
attributed to any cause whatever, it is decidedly 
to the apathy of the rich and prodigal Irish land 
(»wners, who suck the life blood out of their 
tenantry by way (jf liigh rents, which money 
they lavish in England and on the continent of 
Europe. Such men— men of no enterprise, who 
live for themselves alone, could do more, if thev 
so willed it,for the jxvuniary, intellectual and mor- 
al prosperity d the inhabitants of the soil from 
which they gather the means to live in splendor 
and idleness, and in return for which they Avould 
have the gratitude, h.ve and respect of a gener- 
ous and warm-hearted people. 



The greatest poverty exists in the Southern 



provinces. 



(9Vv' ////' Atlantic. 6i 

Taking the train one fine morning early to 
Kingston, by the way a very pretty place, where 
we got on board a Royal mail steamer to break- 
fast, we were in the course of a few hours safely 
landed on the other side of the Irish channel — 
(North Wales). 



62 0\r tJif Atlantii 



LETTER VI. 

WALES. 

HoLVHEAD.— Here we staid only for a short 
time so as to view the pier or breakwater in 
course of erection and nearly complete, which is 
i,ooo feet long with a light house on the extreme 
end. This vast piece of masonry is to protect 
and slielter vessels while at anchor from the 
fury of wind and sea. Three government 
steamers for the purpose of carrying mails and 
passengers to and from Ireland leave here daily 
for Kingston. The immense sum of ;^7oo,ooo 
has been expended by the British government in 
constructing and improving the harbor. The 
Welsh name of the town is Caer Gybi, i. e. the 
Fort of Cybi, the latter word being the name of 
a certain saint who died here, the old church is 
dedicated to that patron saint. On a rock three 
miles away is a light house, called the South 
Stack. The light is produced from twenty-one 
lamps, with powerful reflectors, and is 212 feet 
above low water mark. This light house is 
erected on a rock separated from tlie main land 



W O'er the Atlantic. 6^ 

'by a narrow channel, over which is a splendid 

I iron suspension bridge, and the pathway from 

I the road above to the bridge is composed of 365 

steps, one for every day in the year. Pen-Caer- 

Gybi, or Holyhead mountain^ is upward of 700 

feet high, from the top of which I w^as informed, 

a splendid view of the town and neighborhood 

; can be obtained ; but I had not the remotest 

idea of carrying upwards of two hundred 

pounds of flesh to such height. Before leaving 

we obtained a good view of an obelisk, erected 

in the distance to the memory of a Captain in 

I command of one of the mail steamers, who lost 

his life by being drowned, the particulars of 

which I did not learn. 

Caer-Gybi is of some considerable 
antiquity, marks of which still remain. For 
instance, the old church, where once stood an 
ancient monastery, is surrounded with a wall of 
Roman construction six feet thick. 

We left here by the througli express train for 
•Chester, obtaining a good sight as we steamed 
j along of the column erected in honor of the 
I Marquis of Anglesey, one of the heroes of 
(Waterloo, on which field he lost a leg, also, the 
far-famed tubular bridge across the Menai strait, 
through which we passed, and then a tolerable 
good view of the Menai suspension bridge in the 
distance. 

On we went at a terrible speed through Bel- 
jmont tunnel 726 yards long, Bangor tunnel 



64 Across the Atlantic. 

1,000 yards long, and several other smaller ones, 
getting in the meantime, tolerably good views of| 
Penrhyn castle,* the residence of the Hon. Col.j 
Edward Gordon Douglass Pennant, M. P.,' 
Beaumarris on the Anglesey coast and other 
places of note, until we arrived on Conway 
marsh. Away we went with a screech from^ 
the iron horse through Conwav tunnel, 
under the ancient Avails of the castle, emerging 
from which, we Avere on the look out for the Old 
Castle, Avhich we had the pleasure of seeing, 
although traveling at the rate of 60 miles per 
hour. Conway castle is celebrated in Welsh 
history, and spoken of as being tlie finest at its 
time in tlie then known world. Its walls are of 
immense thickness, with eight circular towers,| 
and was erected in 1284 by Edward the first, it 
Avas not only the most magnificent, but the most 
formidable, certainly it was in all Britain. 
Edward and his beautiful consort, Ellen, (mother 
of the first Prince of Wales), spent Christmas 
merrily in this fortress. Apropos of the Prince 
of Wales. This Prince, so desirable to tlie 
natives of that da)-, was born in Carnarvon 
castle, and the motto, " Ich Dien," (I serve), is a 
corruption of " Eich Dyn," (your man.) King 
Edward, (Edouard or lorweth), then King of 
England, to pacify the Welsh, who were 

* In this neighborhood are located the celebrated " Bur- 
hyn Slate Quarries," which employ some 3,000 men and 
boys. 



O'er the Atlantic. 65 

rebellions, promised them in return for their 
allegiance that they shonld have a Prince born 
in Wales, to whom they should owe alle- 
giance. To fulfill which promise, the shrewd 
King sent for his consort from London, who at 
the time was enciente, and had her brought into 
Wales, where she was delivered of a male 
infant. Thus were the Welsh quieted, and 
hence the origin of " Prince of Wales." * 
Conway castle is now the property of the gov- 
ernment, but held at a nominal rent by the 
Dowager Lady Erskine. On we Avent at light- 
ning speed, (for this train stops at no place 
between Holyhead and Chester, 88 miles), 
obtaining splendid views of the channel with the 
great Ormeshead in the distance, passing through 
or by Abergele, vSt. Asaph, Holywell, Hawarden, 
with its castle in the distance, and in afew minutes 
more enter the very ancient city of — 

Chester. — On our arrival there we were 
recommended to go to the Queen's Hotel, 
adjoining the railway station, a splendid house, 
owned by the Railway company, an elegant 
place to stay at, but rather expensive, verifying 
the old adage, "If you dance pay the piper." 
The city is situated on the banks of the river 
Dee, and is supposed to have been founded by 

* Edward, when presenting the infant Prince to the 
Welsh Chieftains, remarked : " IVele eich dyn' (Behold 
your man), and for many years after, such was the motto on 
the Prince's crest. 



66 0\r the Atlantic. 

the Romans. The wall surrounding it is in an 
excellent state of preservation,* as also are the 
gateways, named respectively East gate, North 
gate, Water gate and Bridge gate. A great 
many Roman antiquities have been found here, 
some of which I will name hereafter. The 
Romans appear to have left it in the fifth century 
when it became subject to British rule. In the 
ninth century it was taken from them and 
annexed to the Saxon crown, but shortly after- 
wards it was taken by the Danes and nearly 
destroyed. William, the Norman conqueror, after- 
wards restored it, and made his nephew, Hugh 
Lupus, Earl of Chester^\ who, it is said, repaired 
the wall, and erected the castle to reside in. The 
Prince of Wales, since the reign of Henry HI, 
isjn addition to his other titles, of which he has 
many. Earl of Chester. 

It w-as here that Edward of Carnarvon received 
the submission of the Welsh in 1309. The first 
Royal charter was granted by Henry III, and in the 
civil Avars of that weak monarch, Charles the 
first. The citv was besieged and taken by the 
Parliamentary force in 1605, at which time the 
wall completely surrounded it, and from a 
circular tower on the wall, Charles, King of 

* The walls afTord an excellent walk of two miles around 
the city. 

•f Lupus, by authority, convened a parliament here, where 
assembled the Barons and their chief tenants, who were 
not bound by acts of the f^nglish Parliament. (B. G.) 



0\'r the Atlantic. 67 

England, witnessed the defeat of bis army and 
le success of the Parliamentary army, on 
■hich is the following inscription . 

King Charles stood on tfiis Tower, 

September 24th, 1645. 

And saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor. 

We visited Eton hall, the residence of the Mar- 

uis of Westminister, one of the most magnificent 

^sidences in England. A charge is made for 

oing so. Tickets of admission can be obtained 

f a stationer in Chester, wliicli money we were 

iformed is applied to charitable purposes. 

[ton hall is about four miles from Chester, the 

rincipal part of the distance is that through the 

ark, a beautiful drive. Grosvenor Lodge, at the 

itrance to the park, was erected at a cost of 

JiOjOoo. It is of Gothic architecture, as also is 

|ie mansion. On our arrival there we Avere 

10 wn through the house by a person in attend- 

ice for that purpose, which was gorgeous 

id grand, furniture, tapestry and ornaments 

iiing of the richest kind, and the paintings, 

I atuary, were by , the most celebrated masters. 

I he walls and ceilings were beautifully frescoed. 

I fter going through that part of the interior 

3en to the public, we were taken and shown 

'le stables, carriage houses, carriages, harness, 

c, but no horses, there being none kept in the 

ables, owing to the family's absence in London. 

ne of the under gardeners then took us in 

large and escorted us over the gardens and 



68 O'er the Atlantic. 

pleasure grounds, the latter beautifully and 
artistically laid out with all kinds of flowers. 
Before taking our leaA'e we were shown a Gothic 
temple recently erected for the reception of a 
Roman altar, found, as I remarked heretofore 
near Chester, and some mosaic pavement from 
tiie palace of the Emperor Tiberius. We then, 
after feeing his Lordship's servants, ^vhich they 
always look for, and for which they bow^ and 
scrape a great deal, touching their hats or pulling 
at a lock of hair every time they speak to you or 
answer a question, quite a novelty to Americans, 
bade adieu to this magnificent mansion with its 
gorgeous furniture and rare works of art, and 
drove back to Chester, to take a look at the old 
Cathedral ; but before giving you an account of 
Avhat we saw there, T will give you some idea of 
the immense wealth of the Marquis of Westmin- 
ster. I w^as informed by a gentleman, whose 
acquaintance I made, tliat this nobleman is 
actually in receipt of ;jj;2, 250,000 per annum, 
which will shortly be more than trebled by the 
passing into his hands on the expiration of 
leases, immense and very valuable property in 
London. The whole of Belgravia, Pimlico, 
Westminster, and the greater part of Fulham, 
will pass into his hands. Those places consti- 
tute the greater portion of the *' West End," the 
finest and most aristocratic part of London, thus 
adding an immense and most incalculable amount 
of W'Calth to his present income, which altogether 



O'er f/ie Atlantic. 69 

s not less than five dollars per minute, a sum 
juite sufficient for any economical and respect- 
ible American to live and die on. We will now 
eave this old fellow to roll in his wealth and 
proceed to give a brief account of the very 
mcient Chester cathedral. It stands on the site 
)f the Saxon Monastery of St. Wesburgh, 
bunded in 660. The present building, or rather 
oarts of it, was built in the reign of Henry the 
5th, 7th and 8th. We were very much struck 
^vith the beauty and imposing appearance of 
.his venerable old structure, with its massive and 
:rumbling walls. We were shown a very exten- 
•;ive and elaborate piece of needle work, many 
:enturies old, an altar screen, and the elaborate 
:arving of the wood work must be seen to be 
ippreciated, when it cannot fail to command 
admiration ; and among many other and curious 
relics, we were shown a copy of the scriptures 
written on parchment with the pen in 11 13, and 
in an excellent state of preservation. After 
feeing the venerable and polite old gentleman 
who accompanied us around the building, we 
took our leave, and requested Mr. Bow-and- 
scrape (the driver), which was answered with a 
pull of the hair and a few affected gutteral 
sounds, to drive us back to the hotel. Fatigued 
we certainly were, but satisfied with what we had 
seen. So after partaking of a hearty meal we 
retired to our rooms and were soon locked in the 
hands of Morplieifs. 



70 O'er the Atlantie. 

Before leaving Chester 1 must say a little of 
the old town itself, especially of some of the old 
buildings still standing in some parts of the city 
These old structures have a very picturesque 
appearance with their gable ends toward the 
street, high pointed roofs and small diamond pane 
windows (all framed buildings) with elaborate, 
carved gables in good preservation, built so that 
you can walk along the sidewalks with the 
second floor over your head, thus protecting 
pedestrians from the inclemency of the weather. 
Wise old fellows were our forefathers. 

There but little remains of the castle, although 
at one time a noble structure. Large barracks 
have been erected adjoining the old tower which 
contains 50,000 stand of arms, besides 125 pieces 
of ordnance. There are several fine public 
buildings, among which I may name the Shire 
hall (court house), the Grosvenor and Queen's 
liotel, and the railway station, the latter a very 
large and commodious building, built of hard, 
dark-faced brick. The station is the central 
terminus for the London & Northwestern, Birk- 
enhead & Chester, Lancashire & Chester, and 
Chester & Holyhead Railways. Tlius there is 
communication with all parts of the United 
Kingdom. Opposite the barracks is an eques- 
trian statue, partially uncovered, (it not being 
yet made public), who it represents I did not 
learn. Whoever it mav be, it is a fine work of 



O'er the Atlantic. 71 

art, and will add much to the appearance of the 
city. 

Leaving this ancient place we took our seats in 
the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway cars, pas'^^ing 
through Wrexham, where we had an excellent 
view of the old church and its tow^er, erected in 
1742. The latter is 134 feet high and of exquisite 
workmanship, decorated with statues of various 
saints placed in niches from top to bottom. 
Aw^ay we went at the rate of fifty miles an hour 
past Ruabon and Llangollen, the latter the birth 
place of Jenny J ones ^ the maid of Llangollen, 
rendered so famous in song. We see Chirk 
castle in the distance, founded in 1013. In this 
castle is the state bed in which Charles the first 
slept, and a beautiful cabinet presented by him to 
the then residing family. The adjacent valley 
is the scene of conflict between the armies of 
Henry the second, and that of the Welsh Prince, 
Owain Gwynedd, the brave Prince of 1165. 
Still on at great speed leaving Oswestry to 
the right until we arrive at Shrewsbury. 



72 O^er the Atlantic. 



LETTER VII. 

WALES, CONTINUED. 

Shrewsbury. — Here we stay but an hour, 
affording us but a short time to h)ok around. 
Its ancient name was Pengwern, and is situated 
upon the banks of the river Severn. William 
the Conqueror gave this town to Roger de Mont- 
gomery, one of his followers, together with the 
title of earl, w^ho erected here a strong baronial 
castle. In 1403 a desperate battle was fought 
near tlie town between the forces of Ilenrv I\' 
and that of the rebel Earl of Northumberland, 
under the command of Lord Percy, surnamed 
Hotspur, when the death of the latter gave the 
victory to the Royalists. The old buildings are 
similar to those described at Chester, and are in 
an excellent state of preservation. Some of the 
Royal charters were granted by Richard I and 
Charles I. Flannel, flax, thread and linen facto- 
ries are located there, doing a thriving trade. 

Taking our seats once more in the cars we left 
this ancient town and proceeded on our journev 
through Ludnow, getting a glimpse of the old 



O'er the Atlixntic. 73 

castle Jis wc went past, c^n through Leamington, 
until we arrived in — 

Hereford, — This fine old city is situated on 
the banks of the river Wye. The cathedral, a 
very classic building, dates from 825. Destrov- 
ed by fire in 1074, it was rebuilt and completed 
in 1 1 20. Its line tower was added to it about 120 
years ago. In this city was born N'ell Gzuyn, the 
favorite of Charles II, and David Garrick, the 
great actor, in the year 17 16, in an old house now 
standing, called the Angel Inn. On the castle 
green, where formerly stood an ancient castle, of 
which no vestige remains, is a stone column sixtv 
feet high, erected to commemorate the victories o 
Admiral Lord Viscount Nelson, the hero of Tra- 
falgar. Several factories for the manufacture of 
flannel, gloves, hats, &c., are at work, and the 
population is about 17,000. On we went to — 

Arerg.4vennv. — This pretty little town is 
situated near tlie river L^sk, surrounded by high 
mountains, and was formerly walled in. In the 
1 neighborhood are the ruins of an old castle and 
monasterv, built some time after the Norman 
conquest. The high mountains in tlie vicinity 
are the Sugarloaf, 1,852 high; Blarenge, 1,720 
ifeet ; Skirrid-fach, 765 feet. It is substantially a 
Welsh town, although situated on the English 
side of the boundary.* The very extensive coal 

* Chester, Shrewsbury and Hereford are now also on the 
English side of the boundary, although classed herein as 
I Welsh towns. 



74 O'er the Ailautie. 

and iron works of Blaenavon, and other works 
are in the neighborhood, thus contributing 
material increase to the general business of the 
place. 

We will now put tlie iron horse once 
more in motion and proceed on our journey, 
passing Pontypool, where there are extensive 
iron and tin w^orks, over the great Crumlin 
viaduct which spans the Ebw Vale at the village 
of Crumlin. This vast structure is composed of 
open light iron work, of which there are ten 
spans, each measuring 150 feet, with pieces of 
iron girded 204 feet high. The whole cost of it 
was ^40,000 or ^200,000, a small sum when com- 
pared with the magnitude of the luidertaking, 
which has to be seen to be appreciated. On we 
go through Aberdare, noted for its very extensive 
coal works, steaming through the beautiful 
Vale of Neath (Cwmnedd) until we arrive in the 
fast improving town of — 

Neath, — Called by the Welsh, Castelucdd, a 
place of great antiquity, situated on the banks of 
Neath river, is one of the most flourishing towns 
in South Wales. 

The old castle, once the property of Jestyn aj) 
Gwrgan (Jestyn the sOn of Gwrgan,) Lord of 
Morganwg^ was burned in 1231, by Llewellyn 
ap* lorweth, and of which now but little remains 
but the vast and extensive ruins of Neath Abbey, 

* Ap signifies son of 



O'er the Atlaniie. 



75 



called by Lelaud "the fairest in all Wales," de- 
serves from the tourist more than a passing 
remark. This fine old building was completed 
by Richard de Granville (who after the conquest 
came into possession of the castle), and dedicat- 
ed it to the Holy Trinity, placing therein a 
small community of Grey Friars, and giving 
tliem large possessions for their maintenance 
It was at this Monastery the unfortunate 
Edward III found temporary shelter in 1326, a 
short time before he lost his kingdom and life. 
The structure is built of walls of great thickness, 
composed of native stone, with the corners and 
embellishments of a sort of cement, which in its 
present appearance resembles white sand or free- 
stone, and is equally as hard if not more so. 
The walls of the Abbot's house with parts of the 
Chapter house and refectory remain — the latter 
with its heavy and high pointed arches, massive 
pillars and large fire place and stone mantel, is 
still in a good state of preservation. And I mav 
say that here, amid the roar of furnaces, clanking 
of hammers, the humming of the cold blast fan, 
and the puffing and whistling of the iron horse 
on the South Wales and Vale of Neath Rail- 
ways, and in spite of the ravages of time, of 
war, and weather, there still stand vast portions 
of this once extensive and magnificent building, 
a solitary memento of the past ages and the genius 
of the people of those days. We will now raise 
our hat to old Neath Abbey and proceed to— 



76 O'er the Atlantic, 

Bridgend. — We made but a very short stay- 
here ; having hired what is called a trap by the 
natives, a term quite as appropriate as rigging, 
a vehicle on two wheels, whereon we sat back to 
back, we proceeded to St. Donat's, nine miles 
distant. While there we were entertained at the 
house of the mother of an American friend 
and neighbor, where we passed a pleasant hour 
or two. We failed to obtain admission into the 
castle for the want of admission cards from Dr 
Carnc, the present proprietor or lessee, resident 
three miles from the place, so had to content our- 
selves with a sight of its outward walls, and a 
splendid marine view, o'erlooking the Bristol 
channel. The castle is of Norman architecture. For 
684 years it remained in possession of a family 
called Straddling, and afterwards in that of the 
name of Drake, no doubt descendants of Sir 
Francis Drake, the celebrated Admiral of Queen 
Elizabeth's reign, and the hero of the Spanish 
Armada invasion. I was informed that the car- 
ving, &c., of the interior is very fine. Near tu 
the castle and covered with foliage, is the old 
church, while a portion of an old watch tower 
occupies a position on the opposite hill looking 
towards the sea. Until the light house near by 
was erected, many were the wrecks which 
occurred in this neighborhood, of wliich are told 
heart-rending and strange stories. Portions of 
unfortunate vessels can be seen in and around 
the village at this day. In the churchyard is an 



O'er the Atlantic, 77 

ancient stone cross of great elegance. The 
castle and church figured much in the reigns of 
Elizabeth and James I. Having seen all that we 
could of antiquated St. Donat's, we bade adieu 
to our newly acquired friends and retraced our 
way back to Bridgend, where we took the train 
for — 

MoRRisTON.— Here we will halt for a few days 
although the place has nothing to recommend it 
to the tourist, it being simply a portion of the 
borough of Swansea ( Abertawe), of which we shall 
speak of next, but some relatives of the writer 
residing here we will have to sojourn among 
them for a season ; indeed, we are now among 
(as the scriptures sayeth) " our own people," so 
we will have to tarry frequently as we go along. 

Swansea, — The principal town of South Wales, 
is beautifully situated between lofty hills on the 
banks of the river Tawe, from which it derives 
its name in Welsh, Abertawe. Its population is 
perhaps 60,000 to 70,000 persons, and is increas- 
ing rapidly in commerce and size. 

Here are the largest copper works in the world, 
of which the Messrs. Vivian are the proprietors. 
There are also extensive copper and silver works 
owned by other equally enterprising persons; 
for instance, that owned by a Mr. Lambert, from 
Chili, South America, and several very large 
Ton and tin works, patent fuel Avorks, potteries, 
kc. Large floating docks for the accommodation 
3f shipping have within the last ten vears been 



78 O'er the Atlantic. 

constructed. Indeed, such have been the im- 
provements made within a score of years, that 
one who lias been absent for tliat time would 
scarcely know tiie })lace at present. 

Swansea carries on an extensive trade in cop- 
per ore with Chili, South America, and the island 
of Cuba, in the West Indies, which, when manu- 
factured into copper, is shipped to London and 
Liverpool, and from there to all parts of the 
world. It is also a delightful watering place; a 
fine sandy beach and plenty of sea-water for bath- 
ing, attracts numerous visitors to this enterprising 
town during the summer months, thus augment- 
ing its w^ealth and resources. 

The castle, of which but a portion remains, is 
said to have been erected bv one Henry Beau- 
mont, Earl of Warwick, a Norman leader of 
1 1 13, adjoining which has recentlv been erected 
a very handsome building bv the government 
for a post-office. The castle, in which the volun- 
teers hold their drills, is the property of the duke 
of Beaufort, as baron of Ciower. There are also 
many fine public and commercial buildings here, 
among Avhich I may name the town hall or court 
house, a beautiful (xrecian structure; the roval 
institution of South Wales, an elegant building 
which contains a valuable librarv ; museum ol 
arts and sciences; museum of antiquities, a visit 
to which will be most interesting to the stranger 
and tourist. There are also very massive build- 
ings erected from native stone, hewn rock work^ 



0\r the Atlantic. 79 

for instance, the House of Correction or Goal, 
Union Poor House, Infirmary, House of Indus- 
try, Normal School, Music Hall, Gas-works, &c., 
all on a gigantic scale and substantially erected, 
as if to last for ages to come. A few miles 
from Swansea is a pretty little watering place 
called Oyster-mouth, by some the Mumbles, a 
delightful place to pass away a few weeks or 
months during the summer weather. We visited 
twice here an old friend of the w^riter, a Mr. G. 
Bowen, who, with his family, had taken up their 
residence there for the summer, during which 
time w^e enjoyed ourselves very much. 

Mumbles is a small but romantic village, with 
its beach washed by the tidal waters of the Swan- 
sea bay, built at the foot of very bold high cliffs, 
(limestone cliffs). The " Mumbles head" is a 
bold rocky projection against which the waters 
of the bay dash with more or less fury, accord- 
ing to the weather, and on which a fine light- 
house is erected, surrounded with a fort, thus 
affording not only protection, but security 
amid perils to the benighted mariner. This 
bay is not surpassed by any other on the British 
coast for sheltering vessels from the fury of sea 
and wnnd ; indeed, the Avriter of these lines has 
often, years ago, had to avail himself of the 
friendly shelter which this little bay affords the 
mariner. Oystermouth castle is a very fine old 
I building, erected by Henry Beaum.ont, whom I 
have had occasion to name (Earl of Warwick) 



8o ' ^ ■ O'er the Atlantic. 

more than once in tliis journal, as one of tlie 
followers of William the Norman Conqueror. 
It has a majestic appearance, standing as it 
does on a high hill, thus enabling it to be seen a 
long way off. It is the property, like the Swan- 
sea castle, of the Duke of Beaufort. The Mum- 
bles is noted for its fisheries, and there are up- 
wards of 4,000 men employed in the oyster 
fisheries alone. Apropos of oysters, the Mimible 
oysters, though reckoned very fine, do not come 
lip to our Shrewsbury, Blue Point or East river, 
S3rved up at a Broadway oyster saloon or in 
Fulton market. They have quite a different 
taste, a taste which the New-Yorker would cer- 
tainly not approve of. It is a rough tincture of 
iron, and copperish taste, which can be retained in 
the mouth for an hour after partaking of them. 
We will now bid a final adieu to our kind friend 
and his intelligent family, and leave the Mumbles 
with its gay visitors, and request vou to accom- 
pany us to Llanelly 



O'er the Atlanlii. 81 



LETTER VIII. 

WALES, CONTINUED. 

Llanelly. — In this tOAvn the writer spent the 
greater portion of his youthful days, and 'twas 
here he took to himself that partner who, for 
eighteen years, shared with him the ups and 
downs of life — some of whicli were anything but 
cheering — but to the point. Llanelly, althougli 
it cannot boast, like some of the neighboring 
townis, of much antiquity, indeed none, is never- 
theless a live town, and ranks as the largest and 
most flourishing town in the county of Carmar- 
then, and excepting Swansea, Cardiff, and per- 
haps Newport, I may say in South Wales. And 
surrounded as it is with numerous and extensive 
collieries, together with large copper, lead, tin, 
silver, iron and other works, it bids fair to be- 
come second to no other town in the principalitv. 
Much of its prosperity is to be attributed to the 
indomitable will and energy of the firm of Sims, 
Willyams, Neville, Druce & Co., the w^ealthy 
proprietors of the very extensive copper smelting 
and lead works located here, which, inclusive of 



^2 O'er the Atlantic. 

their collieries, (not a few) gives employment to 
many tlioiisands of the inhabitants. This enter- 
prising firm have had one continual run of pros- 
perity for upwards of thirty years, thus enabling 
them to double, nay, treble their operations dui^ 
ing tliat time. The situation of the harbor is 
admirably adapted for carrying on an extensive 
commerce, and so soon as the large floating dock 
now^ in contemplation is completed, the facilities 
for doing a shipping trade will be very much in- 
creased. So far as the town is concerned, I may 
say the same of it as of Swansea. Such has been 
the vast improvements made here during the last 
fifteen years, that one absent from the place 
during that period would scarcely know it.— 
Streets have been formed, houses and factories 
erected where there was notliing but green fields 
and barren wastes a few years ago. A very fine 
market place has been recently erected on the 
site formerly known as Chamber's Park, and if 
it has any fault at all it is that of being too large, 
i. e. to supply the wants of the town and neigh- 
borhood for twenty years hence. Market places 
in England and Wales are verv fine structures, 
such as I have not seen elsewliere. Every town , 
of note has its neatly erected market place, where, ' 
on a certain day of tlie week, are exposed for 
sale goods of domestic manufacture, principally j 
farm produce, such as grain, meat, butter, cheese, ' 
fruits, &c., each and every department being sep- 
arate and distinct from the other, and to accom- 



O'er the Atlantic. 83 

modate which, neat and admirably arranged 
stalls, covered in, are erected for the purpose of 
exposing such articles for sale, which stalls are 
constructed to form a square, in the centre of 
which is the market-keeper's dwelling and clock 
tower, erected of hewn stone, as if to last for 
ages untold, with wide entrance gates. Thus 
the market, w^hen not in use, ceases to be a place 
of public thoroughfare, and they are well attend- 
ed by high and low, rich and poor, who sell and 
buy fairly and honestly. The Llanelly market- 
place, as in fact all others generally are, is the 
property of the Llanelly local board of health, 
wdiich is simply the people, an institution of 
men chosen by the inhabitants to administer the 
laws and regulations for the government of the 
borough. Shrewd business men, elected to hold 
the office for honor and not for pay, a toll is col- 
lected of the various holders of market stalls on 
each market day by a collector appointed for the 
purpose, who is also in some towns, market 
keeper, which money, like rates and other muni- 
cipal taxes, is deposited with the treasurer of the 
board to be used for no other purpose than for 
matters connected with the borough. How 
faithfully those monies are expended the well 
paved, clean streets, and sanitary condition of 
the towns plainly answer, Honestly ! 

The Atheneum and Neville memorial com- 
bined, is a noble building, and exteriorly does 
credit to the architect and builder; but I cannot 



84 O'er the Atlantic, 

say as much of the interior, a rather botched up 
arrangement, to my idea, being not what it 
should, and could be, had the controlling powers 
desired it ; the Neville memorial recently added 
to the Atheneum, (additional rooms,) used for a 
museum, &c., and a square tower, built of native 
stone in rock work, dedicated to the memory of 
Richard Janion Neville, Esq., late the managing 
partner of S. W. N. D. & Co., to whom the 
inhabitants of Llanelly owe much for their com- 
mercial, intellectual and moral prosperity. We 
will say no more of this town, but bid it and the 
remainder of old friends and acquaintances a 
long farewell, perhaps forever; for how very 
many, did I find upon my advent among them, 
had gone to "that bourne from which no traveler 
returns." How forcibly do the words occur to 
me, that "in the midst of life we are in death;" 
for some very dear old friends had, but a few 
days prior to our arrival, paid their last tribute 
on earth. We are but sojourners, here to-day and 
gone to-morrow, and as time is precious, we Avill 
bid adieu once more to the living of Llanellv, 
wishing them all the health, prosperity and hap- 
piness this old world can afford, and passing 
through Burry Port and Pembrcy,thriving places, 
land ourselves in the ancient town of 

Kidwelly. — Tliis old fashioned place, although 
small, is one of the towns of former days, those 
days when Llanelly and other growing towns 
were nowhere. It is a market town and under 



O'er the Atlantic. 85 

the provisions of its charter, has its mayor and 
subordinate officers, like those of the city of 
IvOndon, who meet upon certain occasions clothed 
in scarlet robes of office, amid much pomp and 
ceremony. Old Kidwelly, or Cathwelli^ was for- 
merly surrounded by walls with three or more 
gates, one of which, together with many of the 
old houses, are yet standing, defying time and 
weather. It is not a place of much trade, a small 
tin works being the only works of any note 
in operation at present; perhaps there are not 
1,500 inhabitants in the place, and if it was not 
for the grand and extensive old castle, ranking 
as one of the finest in Wales, the place would 
scarcely be worth visiting. 

The castle stands on a rocky eminence over- 
looking the town, and the river Gwendraeth, and 
was built by one of the Beaumonts, so popular 
after the Conquest; it is now a large and impos- 
ing ruin in tolerable preservation, with some of 
its apartments entire, and flights of steps not 
very much injured. The w^est gateway is a noble 
specimen of architectiu'e, and some of the towers 
at the angles retain their arched roofs of stone. 
From the battlements a good view may be had 
of Carmarthen bay and the country around. — 
There is also an ancient church here fast falling 
to decay, and not far from it the ruins of an old 
priory of great age. From Kidwelly we went to 
a pretty little place called Ferryside, very much 
frequented by persons desirous of good sea bath- 



86 O'er the Atlantie. 

ing. Here we spent a pleasant day or two, and 
enjoyed ourselves very much, for the fare at the 
White Lion hotel is not to be sneezed at. Direct- 
ly opposite Ferryside is another pretty Avatering 
place called Llanstephan ; both places are situated 
on the banks of the river Towey. 

Llanstephan, — i. e. St. Stephen's Church, has 
a sainted well formerlv in liigh repute, but is so 
noticed, chiefly on account of the picturesque 
and venerable ruins of its once very fine castle. 
Crowning the summit of a bold hill, the base of 
which is washed by the tidal waves, stands this 
majestic old ruin, its walls hoary with age. It 
was formerly surrounded with earthen ramparts, 
w^as built by Uchtryd, Prince of Meirion in 1138, 
but it soon fell into the hands of the Normans 
apd Flemings. From them it was taken by 
Gruffydd ap Rees, Prince of South Wales, and 
from whom the foreigners were totally unable 
to recover it. In the neighborhood, and over- 
looking the river, is the elegant mansion of one 
Sir James Hamilton. While here we were not a 
little amused with the freaks and antics of a score 
of donkeys and their drivers. The females 
dressed in the primitive style of Welsh costume, 
which is simply flannel of domestic manufacture, 
wove in a variety of patterns, that of the red, 
white and yellow stripe on blue background 
being the most used. The dress is made quite 
short, showing off a neat, w-ell-trimmed ankle, 
and Avell-made shoe and stocking. Some of 



O'er the Atlantic. 87 

the better class and others, on the Sabbath and 
holiday, wear lace caps, very nicely got up, and 
on top of the head is a tall crowned silk beaver 
hat, Avith wide brim, tapering slightly from the 
brim to the crown. Tlie most youthful and gay 
wear this hat alone, without cap, instead of 
which the hair is dressed similar in style to that 
adopted of late by the American ladies; but the 
Welsh ladies don't wear the hat on the forehead, 
but on the head, nor do I think that they have 
resource to artificial means to increase the size of 
— I forget what it is called, let me think — well, 
it is immaterial, for most of my readers will un- 
derstand what I have reference to, many will smile 
at the primitive style of dress; but let me en- 
deavor to assure them that a Welsh woman, 
attired so, seated on horseback with a market 
basket on her lap, or walking with market basket 
on her head, well loaded, and perhaps an infant 
in her arms, with lier hat tied to the strings of 
her apron, blooming with the real color of 
health, is as pretty, charming and happy as the 
gaily attired and fashionable lady of the season. 

Women and children are those generally engaged 
in the gathering of cockles from the sands, where 
they are found in plenty. The cockle is a small 
shell-fish, similar in taste (but more delicate) to 
the American clam. They are found imbedded* 
some two inches in the sand, their location indi- 
cated by two small breathing holes, and in large 
quantities in North and South Wales, during the 



88 O'er the Atlantic. 

hours between low water and the coming in of 
the tide, some scores of women and children are 
daily engaged in thisbusiness,until their sacks and 
baskets are filled, when they are thrown across 
the donkey's back and driven home to be pre- 
pared for market ; some unshelled and some 
shelled, are taken and shipped to the larger 
towns of the interior. Indeed, I have seen the 
Welsh cockles figuring largely in the markets of 
London, Bristol and Manchester, wdiere they are 
considered an article of luxury. We will now re- 
trace our steps via. Llanelly, and land ourselves 
in — 

LouGHOR. — Here the writer first saw the light, 
and got his first scholastic tln'ashing (not for 
good behavior) from the curate of the parish 
church, w^ho acted in the capacity of schoolmas- 
ter during the week days. In tlie old churchyard 
are interred the remains of most cf his relatives 
on his mcther's side, and the remains of hi,s 
father and two brothers, so he cannot but stay to 
pay a passing tribute to the place of his nativity, 
where lay all that was once mcrtal of those so 
nearly allied to him. Loughor, or as it is called 
in Welsh, " Castell Llwc/iwr,'' is situated on the 
bank of the river Llwchwr, which divides the 
counties of Glanmorgan and Carmarthen, and now 
.spanned by two bridges, one for the South Wales 
railway traffic, and the other for turnpike traffic. 
Collieries, copper, zinc and glass works are in 
the neighborhood, but onlv the former are in op- 



O'er the Atlantic. 89 

enition at present. Indeed it has nothing but its 
antiquity to recommend it to the traveler and 
tourist at the present time. Says the liistorian : 
'* It is supposed to be the Leucarum of Antonius, 
and the fifth Roman station on the road called 
Julia Stratta." A portion of the old castle, a 
large square building, situated on a mound, sur- 
rounded by a double trench for defense, still 
remains. It was built in 1099, destroyed by the 
sons of Gruffydd ap Rees in 11 15, and rebuilt by 
Hugh le Despenser in the time of Edward II. 
An old house called the Sanctuary, still standing, 
formerly belonged to the Knights of Jerusalem. 

The old town had undergone but little change 
since my boyhood's days. The veteran castle, 
although hoary with age, and then, as now, clad 
with ivy, a stale old ruin, appeared to have as 
much of it left as when the boys and girls 
assembled to play hide and seek within its walls, 
or climbed up its lofty tower to get a glimpse of 
the river and the country around, forty years ago. 
The old parish church remained about as it was 
when I attended church (much against my incli- 
nation) with my dear old granny, and the high 
built pew which prevented me from gazing at 
the congregation, with the massive stone tablet 
secured to the whitewashed wall directly above 
it, giving the dates of the demise of some of my 
ancestors, brought the past forcibly to my mind, 
when I thought the sermon given by the worthy 
curate would never end, and when nature had at 



90 O'er the Atlantic. 

last to give way for the lack of something more 
interesting to my young mind than his logical 
remarks, I began to nod, and nod, nod, nodding, 
fell fast asleep, to wake up with the loud congre- 
gational singing which closed the morning ser- 
vice. Ah ! those were happy days ; never to be 
forgotten in this Avorld ! 

Then the old churchyard, or burial ground ; 
yes, reader, there had a change taken place 
there; yes, the past thirtv years had filled it, I 
may say, almost to its utmost capacity. Manv 
had sought it as their final resting place, and 
scores of my acquaintances slept soundly beneath 
its green sward. The old and the young had 
been called away. Some of the former had lived 
to a ripe old age, and had but recently bade 
adieu to the living. It w^as a sad sight, and I 
could not refrain from shedding a copious flood 
of tears as I dimly gazed at the tombs and liead- 
stones, surrounded with beautiful flowers, Avhich 
marked the resting place of many Avell-known to 
me in my younger days. Near by laid the old 
fisherman Cadwaladr, who carried me oftentimes 
on his back across the ford or into his boat, while 
I watched with wonder and admiration the large 
hauls of fish he caught, and presented me with one 
to take home. Poor old fellow ! he was a kind, 
good-hearted old man. Before leaving that hal- 
lowed and venerable spot, with its tombstones 
dating centuries back, and now crumbling to de~ 
cav, I purchased, and had the pleasure to super- 



O'er the Atlautie. 91 

intend the erection of a head stone at the head 
of my brother's grave. He sleeps well by the 
side of my father and infant brother, while my 
mother lies among strangers, thousands of miles 
apart; but I added her dear name also to those 
which lie separated in the flesh, in the old church- 
yard at Loughor, but not in the spirit. 

Wliat more can I tell my readers of the place 
of my nativity that would be interesting.^ Yes, 
I can tell them tiiat I visited the house where I 
first saw the light, and wherein I spent the haj)- 
piest days of my life, visited some of my relatives* 
resident there, and I saw and conversed with 
many I knew, who gazed with wonder, and in- 
deed, I may say, admiration at my portly figure, 
wondered if I was not deceiving them, and 
seemed surprised to see in the gray haired man, 
the bov of fourteen, so familiar to their recollec- 
tion. vSaid one old lady, who kept a small store 
wherein she weighed and sold sugar by the quarter 
pound, tea by the quarter ounce, aud tallow candles 
bv the twelfth of a dozen. '' Dear me I indeed to 

goodness ! are you W W .^ And they 

tell me vou can spake Welsh as good as when a 

boy." " Yes, auntie B h," said I, ''I am he, 

and can speak Welsh, to forget my native tongue 
would be to me blasphemy ; and he that could' 
it had been better he never were born." Said 

* There were but two sisters of my mother (two elderly 
hulies) living, of my grandfather's family, but there are 
([uite a number of cousins. 



92 O'ei' the Atlantic. 

the old lady, "well, well I we have had several 
young men leave here for a few years only, and 
come back with nothing but Scesneg (English)." 
•'It is all nonsense, auntie," said I; "no person 
well versed in the mother tongue can for- 
get it. Those persons you allude to, I suppose, 
sought to impress you and others that the pecu- 
liarity of the atmosphere abroad, deprived them of 
the language in which they first lisped the word 
mother, or else they thought it degrading to a 
man who had visited foreign climes, to speak his 
native tongue; how foolish, how absurd, is it 
not.'*" "Yes, indeed," she replied. The old lady 
closed the conversation by remarking that ''she 
had always protested it Avas pride, tliat the igno- 
rant fellows supposed they were raising them- 
selves in the estimation of their neighbors bv 
pretending that thev could not hold converse in 
Cymraeg (Welsh ), and that even their English was 
none of the best; quite the reverse." I remarked, 
"rather say they lowered themselves in the esti- 
mation of every person of good common sense." 
We will now take the Llanelly and Llandilo 
railway, now connected with the \'ale of Towy 
railway, and proceed into the interior of the 
county of Carmarthen, and as we steam along, 
take a passing glimpse of Castell Carreg-Cennen 
(Cennen Stone Castle), erected on the summit of 
a bold rock 450 feet high, about A. D. 1200. It 
Vv'as a fortress of some note about the years 1248 
and 1250, when it was taken and retaken from 



O'er the Atlantic. 93 

the English by Rees ap Fvchan. a renowned 
j Welsh Warrior. 

Llaxdilo-Fawk. or Great Llandilo. so called 
to distinguish it from other places of the same 
name in Wales. St. Teilo, to whom the parish 
is dedicated, is coupled with Dewi (or David) 
and Padarn (or Badam) in the Welsh Triads, as 
the "three holy visitors to Britain." The old 
fortress, called Strah-Towy castle, surrendered 
to the English in 1277, and was destroyed bv 
them, but there still remains an old relic of the 
I past in the classical old ruin of Dynevor castle, 
the property of the Rt. Hon. Lord Dynevor, who 
has a beautiful mansion in the vicinity, the old cas- 
tle forming part of the grounds.^' Camden calls it 
"a princely castle belonging to the princes of South 
I Wales while they flourished." It was first built 
j by Rhys ap Theodore, in the days of the Con- 
Iqueror, and demolished in 1194 in one of the 
feudal wars of that period, but in 1257 it was 
rebuilt, and again in the possession of the Rhvs 
family, under whom it stood a noted seige against 
the English until retaken by Llewelvn ap Gruf- 
fydd, and it continued to remain as a formidable 
fortress until the civil war of Charles I, when it 
was dismantled. The present proprietor. Lord 
Dynevor, whose family name is Rice, is a lineal 
descendant of Rhys ap Thomas, the owner and 
occupant of the castle in Henry the VH's reign. 

*The first castle was built by Roderic Maivr, in 877. 



94 O'er the Atlantic. 

In and around Llandilo the country and scen- 
ery are very fine, and its agricultural resources 
are very great, and besides Newton Park (the 
Dynevor mansion) there are several other fine 
mansions in the neighborhood, for instance, Ta- 
liaris, the residence of William Peel, Esq. (cousin 
to the late Robert Peel) ; Rhyd Odin or Edwins- 
ford, the residence of Sir James Hamlin Williams ; 
(xolden Grove, the residence of the Rt. Hon. 
Earl of Cawdor, and others of more or less note. 
Near Edwinsford are the ruins of Talley Abbey, 
founded in 1180 by Rhys, son of Gruffydd, 
Prince of Wales. This abbey was surprised by 
that monster, Henry VHI, who gave its revenues 
to the family of Albemarles, and on Pantglas 
estate, the residence of David Jones, Esq., M. P., 
are two ancient encampments, one no doubt of 
Roman origin, for several portions of armor, 
liilts of swords, and otlier instruments of war, 
(mostly of Roman manufacture) and Roman 
coins liave been dug up from time to time, thus 
establishing the fact of their having been at one 
time a Roman encampment there. Before bid- 
ding adieu to Llandilo we may here remark that 
the last and decisive battle between the Welsh 
and English was fouglit near by in 1252, when 
the forces of Edward I (superior in number) were 
victorious over those of Elewelen, Prince of 
Wales, who was sliamefully betrayed and slain. 
Tliis terrible battle* put an <i\\(\ to the Welsh 

* The British loss of life was immense lo achie\e the 
victory. 



0\'r the Atlantic. 95 

struggle for independance, and Wales has ever 
since been, as she ever will be, subject to the 
English crown. We next proceeded to — 

Carmarthen. — It is the shire town of the 
county (Carmarthenshire), and has long been re- 
garded as the Capital of the southern division of 
Wales. (B. G.) It is charmingly situated on 
the north-west bank of the beautiful river Towy, 
and is a place of some importance, there being a 
considerable trade carried on in tlie manufacture 
of tin, lead, castings and other branches of trade. 
Salmon and sewin fishing is quite a business 
also. 

From the Parade ground a delightful view is 
had of the valley of the Towy, a most picturesque 
sight, and like all other old towns of note, it was 
surrounded by a high wall with fortified gates, 
of which there is but little trace now — while the 
County prison occupies tlie site of its once an- 
cient and princely castle. 

Carmarthen is of liigh antiquity, for in the 
earliest British annals it is spoken of as a town 
of much importance. In 1137 it was burned to 
the ground by Owain Gwvnedd, and afterwards 
rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Clare. 

It was here that the renowned Welsh prophet 
Merlin was born in the fifth century, and in 
the neighborhood is Merlin's Cave, wherein he 
is supposed to have resided. Caer-Menldin, or Mer- 
lin's towii^ was supposed to be its original name, 
of which Carmarthen is a corruption. It also can 



g6 O'er ihc Atlantic. 

boast of having been the birth-place of two re- 
nowned soldiers, viz : Gen. Sir Thomas Picton 
and Gen. Sir William Nott. The former was 
killed at Waterloo, and the latter, after gaining 
honor and renown in India, returned home to 
die shortly after his arrival. There are two fine 
monuments erected in conspicuous places in the 
town in commemoration of the distinguished ser- 
vices of both these heroes. 

Among the public buildings worthy of note I 
may name a very spacious Market-house, the 
Barracks, the Town Hall, adorned with Ionic 
columns, the County Jail, the Poor House, a free 
Crrammar School, founded by a Dr. Owen, and 
a model school, all of which, I may say, are or- 
naments to the town. 

St. Peter's church is a large plain building, 
with a lofty square tower, in which are hung an 
excellent peal of bells, and the church contains 
several remarkable monuments of antique date ; 
there are also numerous dissenting chapels, 
some of which have very large congregations, 
and a Presbyterian college for the education of 
ministers. 

The inhabitants of Carmarthen, known in the 
county as " St. Peter's boys and girls," are re- 
markable for the purity of their English. Tliey 
not only speak the language very correctly, but 
with an accent only peculiar to themselves. 

It was my intention to proceed beyond this 
point to visit Tenby, Haverfordwest, Pembroke 



0\'r the Atlaniic. 97 

and Aberystwith, tlie former two places celebrat- 
ed for good sea bathing, all very remarkable and 
pretty places, and with a history scarcely second 
to any other towns in Wales ; but, as "time was 
on the icing,'' we had to forego that pleasure and 
proceed in an opposite direction, so as to reach 
Llandovery to visit a relative, who is the propri- 
etor of a Chcuiical Works in tliat neigliborhood. 



9S 



"&er the Atlanfic. 



LETTER IX. 

WALES, CONT I NUED. 

Llandovery,— In ancient times called Llan- 
ymddyfrwy, is a small market town of about 
2,000 inhabitants. All that remains of its once 
line old castle is the keep, which consists of a 
circular tower on the summit of a mound, and a 
few pieces of old ruined walls. The history of 
this castle, which we will give but briefly, is 
nevertheless interesting. Howell ap Rhys took 
it by storm in 940. It afterwards fell into tlie 
hands of the English, and was subsequently 
taken and retaken until the time of Edward I, 
since which time it has been a ruin. 

One of the greatest additions to Llandoverv 
which has been made of late years, is the build- 
ing and establishing of a public school upon a 
large scale, called the Welsh Collegiate Institu- 
tion, founded by Thomas Phillips,"Esq., for the 
encouragement of native talent. TJie building is 
not only commodious but very handsome, and 
we are infortncd is n perfect success in every 
respect. 



O'er the Atlantic. 



99 



Llandovery is situated in a delightful neigh 
jborhood, celebrated for its farm productions, es- 
Ipecially that of butter, which is generally Aery 
fine; fine trout abound in the rivers and streams, 
the banks of which are much frequented by the 
angler. 

I The writer will now have to make a long leap 
passing through a picturesque and well culti- 
vated country and enterprising towns, and land 
his readers in — 

Cardiff. — A few passing remarks about this 
place, as we travel along, will render the route 
we have taken the more interesting. Aside from 
its being the most important commercial town in 
South Wales, it is celebrated as being the place 
where Jestyn ap Gwrgan, Lord of Morgan wg, 
(i. e., Jestyn the son of Gwrgan, Lord of Gla- 
morgan) built for himself a strong fortified castle, 
surrounded with embattled walls, with five en- 
trance gates. This castle was a spacious and 
stately edifice, and was called Caerdaff (fortress 
on the Taff), hence Cardiff ; it became the resi- 
dence of princes. It was in this castle that 
Robert, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the 
conqueror, was confined for twenty-six years, by 
order of his brother William Rufus, and Henry 
I, who were jealous of his power and influence 
In i64g, when garrisoned by Royalists,it was close- 
ly besieged for three days by the troops of Oliver 
Cromwell, who commanded in person, when 
possession was obtained through the treachery 



loo O^er the Atlantic. 

of a deserter from the garrison, who Cromwell, 
after having entered the castle, caused to be 
hung, as a warning to his own troops, thus 
paying the traitor in his own coin. Nearly the 
whole of this very ancient building has given] 
place to the now more modern mansion of thd 
Marquis of Bute, to whose father (now deceased)] 
the flourishing town of Cardiff owes much for its 
prosperity, the marquis, during his life time,[ 
having laid out probably half a million pound 
sterling in the building of docks, warehouses 
and other conveniences incidental to a first class 
seaport. The present marquis is about twentv 
years of age, and resides at the castle witli the 
dowager marquise, his mother, and it is said, 
will, on his coming of age, carry out further im- 
provements projected by his late father. 

Newport. — At this place we stayed but a very 
short time, to call upon an old acquaintance, but 
who unfortunately was not at home. After ii 
hastilv penning him a few lines to come and see j 
us at Chepstow, we proceeded to take a hasty 
survev of the town and its castle, both of which j 
arc situated on the banks of the river Usk, the j 
latter on a steep precipice overlooking the river, j 

Newport, or Casnewydd, as it is called by the j 
Welsh, for the last thirty years has been continu- 
ally improving, commercially and otherwise, 
until it has become a shipping port of much im- li 
portance ; the extensive floating dock constructed j 
here for the accommodation of shipping of im^ j 



O'er the Atlantic. lol 



'inense tonnage, renders it one of the most desir- 
jible ports in Britain for loading and unloading 
'Df vessels, and in the mountainous districts ad- 
'lacent, are some of the finest and most extensive 
'mineral beds in the world, one of which is iron 
':>re, which, when manufactured into iron at 
'various places, is then sent on to this port by 
rail, from whence it is shipped foreign and coast- 
wise. Immense quantities of coal for steam and 
^as purposes are also shipped from here to all 
iparts of the United Kingdom and to foreign 
[ports. 

It was at Newport that the chartists under 
the command of the Dowhead, John Frost, made 
that very feeble and futile effort to gain reform 
by force of arms, the residt of which crazy move 
is too well known. 

The place derives its interest principally from 
the rapid growth and prosperity of its commer- 
cial transactions; but it has some claim to 
antiquity also, for it was founded by the Romans, 
and the remains of an ancient castle, now partly 
converted into a brewery of no mean preten- 
sions, are still there to gratify the eye of the 
lover of antiquities. The ancient towns of 
Caerlleon and Usk are not many miles off, at one 
time far more important stations to the Romans 
than Newport was, and in the neighborhood are 
to be seen some very magnificent mansions, 
among w^hich I may name Tredegar Park, the 
residence of Lord Tredes^ar, Abercarn House, the 



^^^2 O'er the Atlantic. 

residence of Lord Llanover and Llanwern, the 
residence of the Rev. Sir J. C. Salsbury. We 
will now bid Casnewydd adieu, and ^o to— 

Chepstow.— Here we will remain for several 
days with a relative, who resides here, so as to 
enable us to visit such places as are said to be 
very interesting to travelers and tourists P-en- 
erally. ' ^ 

First of all we will speak of the town, a quiet, 
delightful and picturesque retreat on the right 
banks of the river Wye, which is tlie boundary 
line between the counties of Monmouth and 
Gloucester, but at present its commercial trans- 
actions are but very slim indeed. 

During the time that the Saxons held posses- 
sion of Chepstow, it was called Chepestowe, from 
the Saxon word chepc, for market, and the word 
stoioe, for town, meaning market town ; and atJ 
the time that Harold was elevated to the throne,! 
on the death of his brother-in-law, Edward the 
confessor, Chepestowe was held by the Saxon 
Earl, Hugh Bassett, but at the conquest (rio6) he 
was displaced, and the conqueror gave all the 
lands to his own countrymen. Hugh then 
became an attached refugee to the court of 
Rhys ap Teivdwr, Prince of South Wales, and 
was slain with that Prince in the contest with 
Robert Fitzhamon on Mynydd Du (Black Moun- 
tain(, in the year 1090. The next possessor of 
Chepstow was William Fitzosborn, a relative of 
the conqueror, who was created Earl of Here- 



O'er the Atlantic. 103 

foreland who was killed in Flanders in 1070, 
He was then succeeded by his son Roger, who 
was afterwards condemned to perpetual imprison- 
ment for political reasons. His cousin, Walter 
Fitzgerald de Clare, then came into possession. 
Walter was succeeded by his nephew Gilbert de 
Clare, Earl of Pembroke, whose son Richard 
(surnamed Strongbow, from his skill in archery), 
was Earl of Pembroke and Lord of Chepstow. 
He died in 12 10, leaving sons and daughters, the 
former succeeded him to the estates and titles, 
but died without issue. The property then 
changed hands frequently until 1301, when it 
became the property of the crowm. Edward the 
n gave a deed of grant of it to his brother, 
Thomas Plantagenet. From him it passed to 
the Mo wb rays, Norforks, Pembrokes, and then 
through the female line to the Somersets, and is 
now the property of their descendant, the present 
Duke of Beaufort, who is Baron of Chepstow. 

The castle of Chepstow is still a splendid 
specimen of a feudal fortress, situated on a high 
I precipice overlooking the river Wye, and is com- 
Iposed of four distinct courts, with their various 
I apartments and dungeons intact. Near to the 
entrance gate, a beautiful pointed archway, is the 
rjund tower, where in days gone by many a 
captive sighed and groaned, and now celebrated 
las the place wherein Henry Marten, one of the 
jspecial judges of King Charles I, was confined 
for twentv vcars, since wdiich time it has been 



104 



O'fr the AfUmtii 



called Marten's Tower. Marten was a great 
aclvocate of the Republican form of government 
and a staunch friend of Cromwell, the pretender, 
figuring among the foremost, who were the 
means of bringing that simple and unfortunate 
monarch, Charles, to the block, for which act 
after the restoration he was condemned to die ; 
but his life was not to be sacrificed as that of his 
king's was, for the sentence was commuted to 
imprisonment for life. He died in the 78th year 
of his age, and was interred in the chancel of 
the parish church of Chepstow, and on his monu- 
ment is the following, written by himself: 

Siirr. yXH, 1680, was iu'rikd, 
A TRUE BORN ENGLISHMAN, 
Who in Berkshire was well known 
To love his country's freedom 'bove his own ; 
But immured full twenty yeare, 
Mad time to write, as doth appear. 

EPITAPH. 
Here or elsewhere (all's one to you or me). 
Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust. 
None knows how soon to be set free. 
Reader, if you an old tried rule will trust. 
You'll gladly do and suffer what you must. 

M}- time was spent in serving you and you. 
And death may pay, it seems, and welcome, too — 
Revenge destroying, but itself — while I 
To birds of prey leave my old cage and fly. 
Examples preach to the eye, care then mine says. 
Not how you did, but how you spend your days. 



O'er the Atlantic. \o% 

In addition to the almost impregnable castle 
the town was strongly fortified. Walls of im- 
mense thickness and watch towers surrounded it, 
and with some few exceptions are now what may- 
be termed in a tolerable state of preservation. 
The town gate, called in the charter, granted by- 
Charles, Earl of Worcester, in 1524, the "Great 
Gate," is still standing and in good repair. 

During the reign of Charles I, Chepstow 
experienced its share of the reverses of fortune 
and hard knocks, identical to that very unsettled 
period of State affairs, when old England was 
about becoming a Republic, but only for a 
season. 

Says Ruskworth : " On the 6th of October, 
1645, the town and castle of Chepstow, being 
garrisoned by the King's troops under the com- 
mand of Col. Fitzmorris, were summoned by a 
force of 300 cavalry and 400 infantry, assisted \>y 
some partisans of the county, the whole under 
command of Colonel Morgan, the Parliamentar}' 
Governor of Gloucester, to surrender. Tliis 
demand was complied with, the garrison sur- 
rendering as prisoners of war on the loth of tlie 
same month. The town and castle afterwards 
remained in the possession of the Parliamenta- 
rions until 1648, without interruption ; but in 
May of that year, during the absence of the 
Governor, Col. Hughes, it was surprised and 
taken by a force under the command of Sir 
Nicholas Kemys, Colonel of horse in the King's 



io6 O'er tJic Atlantic. 

service. The event so exasperated Cromwell 
that he proceeded against it in person, at the 
head of a considerable force of cavalry, infantry 
and artillery. He entered the town on the nth 
of May, 1648, and immediately demanded the 
surrender of the castle, which was directly 
refused, and the little garrison, of 160 men only, 
defended it with the utmost courage and determi- 
nation ; but after a long resistance, the little bandr 
worn out with watching and almost famished 
wnth hunger, even then refusing to surrender, had 
hoped to escape by a boat which they had pro- 
vided as a last resource for the purpose. In 
this they were deemed to disappointment, for a 
soldier of Cromwell's army had swam the river, 
cut the moorings, and brought it away with him. 
Finally a breach was effected in the works and 
the castle was taken by assault. Its valiant com- 
mander and forty men lost their lives in endeav- 
oring at the last moment to repel the invader." 

Tlie retaking of this castle was considered of 
so much importance to the Parliamentarians 
that a reward of fifty pounds sterling, a large 
sum in those days, w^as awarded the bearer of 
the dispatches. 

More about Chepstow in mv next. 



O'er the Atlantic. 107 



LETTER X. 

WALES, CONTINUED. 

Chepstow, Continued.— T\\q old parish church 
of Chepstow was originally that of an alien pri- 
ory of benedictine monks, dedicated to the Holy 
Virgin. It w^as founded in the reign of Stephen 
by one of the family of De Clare. The principal 
entrance is of Norman architecture, and the old 
tower contains a fine peal of bells and a hand- 
some clock wnth chimes, w^iich chime hourly 
commencing five minutes before striking the hour] 
Several very fine monuments adorn the interior 
among which is a very elegant canopied tomb of 
Henry Somerset, Lord Herbert, second Earl of 
Worcester of that line, who died in 1549. 

The Welsh custom of bedecking the graves of 
departed friends with flowers of early spring, is 
strictly kept up in the ancient churchyard on 
Palm Sunday, and is done so generally through- 
out Wales. Dr. Dodd commemorates the custom 



in the following and other lines 



io8 [ O'er the Atlantic. 

Oh ! 'tis delightful to maintain 
Of friends deceased a true respect : 

Then bring me flowrets fresh and green, 
Straight shall my parent's grave be decked. 

There are several fine buildings, among which 
is the bank, a branch of the west of England, 
towering high above the rest, as also several 
buildings of ancient date, and two alms houses, 
one the gift of Sir Walter Montague, of Pencoed, 
for the residence and relief of ten poor persons 
of the parish, and the other affords an asylum to 
twelve similar persons. There is also another 
charitable endowment of four shillings per week. 
Called " Bowsher's charity," for the support of- 
ten poor old bachelors ! " What a shame,' 
remarked a lady friend to me one day, " it is that 
such an inducement should be held out to the 
young men of Chepstow to live a single life of 
blessedness, knowing that when they get up in 
years that they may possibly be one of the fortu- 
nate four shillinger's per week, to live a life of 
idleness. Pooh ! I have no patience left wlien I 
think of the old f — 1 of a batch who made the 
bequest." Poor old thing, for she was on the 
wrong side of forty. How much it did see in to 
annoy her, and 1 must confess that I thought 
myself that tlie money was not very judiciously 
bequeathed. 

This little town has a variety of very fine 
stores, is well supplied with water and lighted 
with gas, and the streets are well paved and 



O'er the Atlaritic. 109 

beautifully clean ; in short, it is a beautiful healthy 
place, and is well worthy of a week's visit from 
the traveler and tourist, for it and the neighbor- 
hood abounds with antiquities, situated in one of 
the most delightful countries the eye ever 
rested upon. 

The river Wye, which empties itself into the 
Severn, is celebrated for its salmon fishery, the 
right of which, like every other monopoly in 
Great Britain, is vested in the Duke of Beaufort, 
who rents it out to an enterprising and industri- 
ous Scotchman, who is well versed in the busi- 
ness, and under whose sagacious management 
very large quantities of the fish are caught during 
the season. He employs upwards of a hundred 
men, and during our stay several tons of these 
beautiful fish were caught and shipped off by 
train to the markets (rf London, Manchester, 
Bristol and other large cities, some of which fish 
measured more than three feet long and weighed 
upwards of 70 pounds. The people of the 
neighborhood deem this act of the Duke's mean 
and also an infringement of their rights, for if 
not the lords of the soil, they certainly think 
they should be of the river. They therefore 
speak of his grace in anv but a respectful man- 
ner. 

The Wye is spanned by two bridges, which are 
near the town, one a tubular bridge, erected by 
the late I. K. Brunell, C. E., of Great Eastern 
memory, for the South Wales Railway company, 



no O'er tJie Atlantic. 

in the erection of which the lamented engineer 
has displayed much originality and boldness of 
conception. The bridge, i. e. the span, is 300 
feet long and upwards of 100 feet high from Ioav 
water mark, or sixty and more above high water 
mark. The other bridge is of wrought iron, is 
very handsome, and is used for turnpike traffic. 
Before bidding adieu to ancient Chepstow, we 
visited the Wind cliff and Tintern Abbey, pass- 
ing by Piercefield park, the princely residence of 
Henry Clay, Esq., of which I cannot give an 
adequate description ; but the grandest scene on 
the Wye is that to be obtained from the Wind 
cliff, which we ascended with some considerable 
difficulty, and were only too glad when we 
reached the summit. Here we were perched 
high up in the air, with the water and clouds 
beneath us, standing upon the edge of a precipice, 
the depth of which caused us to shudder, and the 
farm houses in the valley beneath appearing to 
have been reduced to one-third their actual size, 
w.th the eccentric river winding at our feet like 
the letter S, and resembling a small creek. For 
let my readers recollect that we were one thou- 
sand feet above its level, and from Avhere we 
overlooked nine counties, said to be the most 
beautiful and extensive prospect in Great Britain. 
Descending a different way to that we went, we 
passed through a large cavern in the rock, nearly 
90 feet in length, leaving which we passed down 
360 steps, and over a rustic bridge to the Moss 



O'er the Atlantic. iii 

Cottage, a singular building, enveloped in shrub- 
bery, the interior of which is lined beautifully 
with moss; and its windows are of stained glass, 
diffusing therein a very nice, soft light. Visitors 
are here supplied, at rather a salty figure^ with 
refreshments and photographs of the cottage, the 
Wind cliff, &c. After paying the old lady in 
charge for coming down the ever memorable 
(i. e. to me), " 360 steps," and purchasing a few 
photographs, we again entered our carriage, which 
had gone on to meet us here from the foot of the 
Wind cliff, and drove to Tintern, two miles fur- 
ther, along an excellent road, but not at a 2:40 
gait, keeping the river on our right. It was a 
delightful drive. " Such drives as we sometimes 
read of," remarked one of our party. To me it 
was not only delightful, but refreshing, after 
doubling cape Wind cliff, Avhich was rather 
severe exercise for a man of my weight (225 
pounds), and arrived at Tintern, we proceeded 
immediately to view the Abbey, a building of 
much grandeur and antiquity. 

Tintern Abbey is situated on the right bank 
of the river Wye, in a hollow sheltered by four 
gigantic hills. It was founded for white monks 
in the year 1 131, and dedicated to St. Mary by 
Walter Fitz Richard de Clare, son of Constance, 
the sister of William Fitzosborn, who was 
created Earl of Hereford by the Conqueror, to 
whom he was nearly related. This pious act of 
De Clare was intended bv him to expiate his 



112 O'er the Atlantic 

many sins for having robbed, pillaged and mur- 
dered the native inhabitants by wholesale, both 
lie and his brother Gilbert and many others of 
the nobles. Abbotts, priests, &c,, were interred 
in the Abbey. 

On entering this majestic and superb ruin, 
wherein the close cut grass serves for a carpet, 
instead of the line mosaic pavement, some of 
which has been collected together and formed 
into a floor, surrounded by an iron railing, so 
many objects meet the eye, in so sudden a man- 
ner (says a well known writer), that the visitor 
becomes astonished beyond conception at the 
grandeur that must have once reigned within 
those ancient walls. The long line of massive 
lofty pillars which divides the aisles, the fallen 
arches and the elegant remains of the east win- 
dow (sixty feet in depth), strike the beholder with 
awe and challenge his admiration and astonish- 
ment at what was possible in the days of semi- 
barbarism. Here and there are scattered some 
neatly piled up sculptured fragments and tomb- 
stones, ruined effigies and broken ornaments, 
which cannot but strike the eye and cause the 
mind to wander into centuries long gone by. 

From the north aisle you pass through a door 
or iron gateway into tlie cloisters, and from there 
to the chapter house, infirmary, library, refectory 
and kitchen, all in a good state of preservation, 
considering the time since they were inhabited 
bv mortal man. Savs one writer : 



O'er thf Atlantic. 1 1 3 

'■ Wow many heart's have here grown cold 

That sleep these niouldering stones among ? 
How many beads have here been told. 

How many matins here been sung ? 
On this rude stone by time long broke — 

I think I see some pilgrim kneel — 
I think I see the censor smoke — 

I think I hear the solemn peel." 

Tlie Abbey, grand old classic ruin, is a cruci- 
tbrm, its nave and choir 228 feet, and transept 
150 feet in length, height of centre arches 70 feet 
and the smaller 30 feet, the breadth of entrance 
door is 14 feet, and the walls above the door 28 
feet. The amount of stone and Roman cement 
used in its construction is astonishing, and had 
to be transported from a long distance, no doubt 
by boats on tlie river. At the dissolution it was 
suppressed and the site granted by Henry the 
VIII, to Henry, second Earl of Worcester, and 
is now the property of a descendant, his grace 
the Duke of Beaufort, whose agent in charge 
collects the nominal sum of six-pe/ice of all who 
visit the ruins, a sum well spent by the lover of 
antiquities. Retracing our steps to Chepstow, 
there will end our tour through Wales. 

Now a few remarks about Cymru (Wales), and 
its people generally, ere we take our leave of it 
for the land of the Saesoneg (English). 
It is divided into two territories, com- 
monly called North and South Wales, compri- 
sing twelve counties, and its extent (says W. 
His. of W. p 2), "may be estimated by the follow- 



114 O'er the Atlantic. 

ing particulars: From Carmel Point to Cheps- 
tow on the Severn, is about 145 miles, and from 
Birkenhead on the Mersey to the Wormshead in 
Glanmorganshire, about 140 miles. From the 
mouth of the Clwyd in Denbgshire to Barry 
Island in Glanmorganshire is about 140 miles, and 
from the mouth of the Dovey in Cardiganshire 
to Bridge-North on the Severn, nearly 70 miles, 
while Braich-y-pwll Head, in Carnarvonshire, and 
extends to the west beyond the mouth of the 
Dovev, about 30 miles, and St David's head in 
Pembrokeshire, about 50 miles, in all about 7,500 
square miles of territory. It includes, beside 
the twelve counties, Monmouthshire and Here- 
fordshire, with parts of Gloucestershire, Wor- 
cestershire, Shropsiiire and Cheshire." T\\q former 
is, in my opinion, substantially a Welsh county^ 
it certainly is in language and habits of the 
people, although included in the list of English 
counties at present, while portions of the others 
were also at one time no doubt part and parcel 
of Welsh territorv taken, like Monmouthshire to 
enlarge British territory. Tlie whole surface 
of the countrv is mountainous, not unlike Penn- 
sylvania, its highest mountain being that of 
Snowdon or Eryri, wliich is 3,571 feet above the 
level of the sea, next are Carnedd-Llewelyn, 
3,466 feet, Carnedd-Uavydd, 3,422 feet, Arrenig 
2,999 ^^6t> '^^'^^ several others of lesser height. 
Rivers it hasmany, among which I may name the 
Severn, superior in every respect to any of the 



O'er the Atlantic. 115 

others, 190 miles long; next is the Wye and 
Towy. The Severn and Towy are to a certain 
point navigable, and the whole three are cele- 
brated for salmon fishing. A vast extent of this 
country is in a high state of cultivation and the 
other parts abound with rich minerals, principally 
beds and seams of coal and iron ore. 

Wat-es — of which there is so little known 
abroad, generally, deserves from mc, a native of 
its soil, more than a passing remark. Hence the 
following : 

Although it comprises only twelve counties, 
six of which form the northern, and six the 
southern division, it certainly did embrace in olden 
times much more territorv, for, as history says, it 
included Monmouthshire, together with other 
contiguous counties, whole or in part, which now 
are incorporated with England. Thus — I take 
Chester^ Shrewsbury^ Hereford^ Chepstoio^ Ncivport 
and Abergavenny^ especially the two latter, which 
are in the county of Monmouth, to be substan- 
tially IVchh towns, for there the Welsh language 
still prevails, and more especially in the rural 
districts, where the natives (more or less) retain 
their ancient prejudices against the Saxon. 

Wales has a population of about 1,250,000. 
" It derived its name, as also did its people, from 
the Saxons, who, by so naming, denoted a land 
and people to which they were strangers. The 
Welsh have always called themselves Cymric, of 
which the literal meaning is Aborigines^ and the 



ii6 O'er the Atlantje. 

language Cyinraeg or Cymric^ i. e., the primitive 
tongue J whence the Romans called the coiintrv 
Cambria. 

It was into this country the ancient Britons 
retreated, maintaining their independence by he- 
roically defending themselves against enemies 
superior in power and number, who were every- 
where else victorious. The Romans never were 
able to subdue them, and the Saxons, although in 
possession of the neighboring country, could 
never secure continued possession of Wales, and 
it was not until the strength of the country was 
so diminished, owing to internal dissentions, that 
the Mercians, under King Offa, laid w^aste exten- 
sive districts, and wresting a portion from the 
Welsh princes, reduced the country to nearly its 
present limits, and erected that famous boundary 
called Claivdd Offa or Offas Dyke. 

In 843, Roderic was the sovereign of Wales, 
when he divided it into three principalities ; and 
during the Danish Ascendency in Britain, little is 
known of Wales. The Danes made some incur- 
sions on the coast, but gained no permanent foot- 
ing in the country. So the Welsh continued 
under their own princes and laws, and were 
never entirely subjected to the crown of England 
till the reign of Edward I, when Llewelyn-ap- 
Gruffydd, Prince of Wales, through treachery, 
lost his life and his country, shortly after which, 
Edward, the better to secure his conquest, and to 
reconcile the Welsh to a foreign power, sent his 



O'er the Atlantic. i r 7 

Queen tu Carnarvon Castle, where she gave birth 
to a son, &c.," (B. G.) of which I have treated in 
the preceding pages. Of its people I may justly 
say — 

Tlie Welsh of to-day are a hard working, thrifty 
and frugal people, truly loval and patriotic, 
full of love and song for their native land; and 
are considered abroad, I am proud to remark, 
intelligent and good law-abiding citizens. 



ii8 O'er the Atlantic. 



LETTER XL 

ENGLAND. 

Briglistow, or Cacr Odor, for by these names 
this ancient and important city was called by the 
RomanSy Saxons and Welsh, is situated in two 
counties, viz : Gloucestershire and Somerset- 
shire. The largest portion belongs to the for- 
mer. Two rivers wend their way through it, the 
Avon and the Frome. 

The city owes its origin to Brennus, a King of 
Britain, who flourished 330 years B. C. During 
the sovereignty of the first Edward (1,000) it 
suffered severely from numerous and severe con- 
flicts with large bodies of the Danes, who fre- 
quently found their way up the Bristol Channel, 
and sacrificed to their brutal fury both sexes ir- 
respective of age. Hundreds fell on these occa- 
sions victims to the bloodthirsty invaders, who 
always left loaded with plunder. But at last 
they were signally defeated, and had to beat hasty 
retreats ; and, Edward having caused to be con- 
structed several castles along the river Avon for 
the defense of the places lying upon its banks. 



O'er the Atlantic. 119 

effectually put a stop to their piratical incursions. 

The chief of those strongholds was the cele- 
brated one of Bristol, which Henry of Lancaster 
stormed when defended by one of the adherents 
of King Richard. Pi-ince Rupert took it from 
the Parliamentary army, they however regained 
it afterward and finally it was razed to the 
ground by Cromwell. Within the walls of that 
once extensive castle Eleanor^ Princess of Bri- 
tainy, was incarcerated by King John, during a 
period of forty years; and within the same dun- 
geon the same tyranical monarch committed the 
well known deed of barbarity on the person of 
an unfortunate Jew named Abraham^ of extract- 
ing one tooth per diem until he had paid a sum 
of ten thousand marks. The unhappy victim with- 
stood this flagrant act of injustice and cruelty 
until he had sacrificed all but one., and then com- 
plied witli the exorbitant demand, a torture some 
of our Anu^rican ladies now-a-days would think 
nothing of, for they frequently have a whole 
mouthful extracted for appearance sake alone. 

Henry the VHT granted the charter which 
made Bristol a city and the sec of a Bishop. 

Serious riots took place here in 1749, octa 
sioned by the erection of turnpike gates, when 
the price of bread Avas very high. A great manv 
lives were sacrificed on that occasion. Another 
riot occurred in 1792 for the purpose of abolish- 
ing the tolls collected on Bristol bridge ; then 
followed a bread riot in 1801, all of which tend- 



I20 0\'r the Atlantic . 

ed to disturb the public peace and sacrifice a 
great many lives, without achieving any good 
results — so much for i-iot and civil war. 

The objects of curiosity in this city are very 
numerous, and of the most diversified character, 
the Cathedral, the various parish ciuirches, and 
almost every street contains something to awak- 
en the attention of the visitor, and to excite a 
laudable spirit of inquiry. Tliis is more particu- 
larly the case, as it respects many of those ma- 
jestic and time honored edifices set apart for the 
services of religion ; viz : that of the Established 
Church of England. 

It is considered the second city in size in 
England,* and as we visited it specially to see 
some relatives, remaining there but one day, af- 
fording us just sufficient time to visit Clifton and 
its magnificent suspension bridge, whicli spans 
the river Avon, said to be one of the finest struc- 
tures of the kind in the known world, my re- 
marks will be brief. 

Suspension bridges, we are informed, i, e., in a 
rude form, were first constructed by the Peruvians, 
but the principle was understood in Europe at 
least as early as the middle ages, and were fre- 
quently employed in military operations; the 
Prince of Orange used them in 1631, and during 
the Peninsular war, "when the French had de- 
stroyed one of the stone arches of the bridge of 

Liverpool, as a seaport, is of more importance and prob- 
ably larger. 



O'er the Atlantic. 



21 



Alcantara (a spJenciid Roman bridge built by the 
Emperor Trojan), in order to prevent the pas- 
sage of the allied troops, a rope bridge was at 
once thrown across the gap (very nearlv one 
hundred feet wide) and crossed in safety bv the 
entire British armv," and temporarv bridp-es 
formed of iron chains with planks laid across 
have frequently been used for various j)urposes. 
But the last great impulse to the erecti<jn of sus- 
pension bridges was erected by the completion 
in 1826 of Telford's Menai bridge, at that time 
regarded as one of the boldest attempts under- 
taken by any engineer. 

I will now speak of the Clifton splendid struc- 
ture. Standing upon the edge of the old Roman 
encampment which crowns the summit of Clif- 
ton Downs, with the vallev of the niofhtineale 
opposite, and 200 feet below you the river Avon 
flowing swiftly to the sea, is one of the most 
magnificent views that the eye of the spectator 
ever rested upon ; it is here, spanning the river 
about 700 feet, is erected the Clifton suspension 
bridge, so long in contemplation, but now happi- 
ly for the residents of Clifton and Hotwell- 
road completed. This bridge is not only verv 
handsome but capable of sustaining a permanent 
weight of 5,000 tons, the massive links which ex- 
tend from pier to pier with their gilded bolts, 
form especially on a clear sunny day a very at- 
tractive and dazzling sight, and must be seen so 
as to form a correct idea of its beautv ; indeed 

E 



122 



O'er the Atlantic. 



there are but few (if any) of the various bridges 
erected in other parts of the world can excel it 
in grandeur, and as we gazed upon it we were 
struck with wonder and admiration for the genius 
of the great Brunei, to whose engineering skill 
the structure owed its presence, although he did 
not live to witness its completion, but a finer and 
more lasting monument could not be erected to 
his memory than the Clifton suspension bridge ! 

Bristol, especially that part called Clifton, has 
within the last 20 years increased very much in 
size, and some of the finest private dwellings in 
all England adorn its once spacious and fertile 
fields. College road being the most fashionable 
of all others, both as a public drive and prome- 
nade. 

We failed to make it convenient to visit the 
old cathedral St. Mary de Redcliffe^ which still 
stands a venerable and majestic monument to 
the days of yore. 

Bristol has a population of probably 175,000, 
and is quite a commercial city, doing an exten- 
sive trade, principally with South Wales, and is 
the terminus of the Great Western Railway. We 
will now take a hurried leave of this city and 
proceed by way of Swindon to — 

London. — This wonderful and rapidly grow- 
ing city has a population of over 3,000,000 of 
people, and is no doubt the largest and most 
flourishing city in the known world ; a few re- 
marks on its early history will therefore not be 
uninteresting to my readers. 



G'er the Atlantic. 123 

It was at one time the capital of the Trinohar- 
tes, a numerous people inhabiting those parts of 
Britain now called Middlesex and Essex, before 
the christian era, even in those remote times it 
was governed by laws and was an important cen- 
tre of commerce ! Caesar denominated it "the 
chief city of the Trinobantes." Antiquity has 
told us nothing of the foiuider, but tradition 
gives it to a " Trojan called Brute, who invaded 
and conquered Britain 11 16 years B. C." Durino- 
• the 476 years of Roman rule, stupendous works 
wjre accomplished by a people of advanced me- 
clianical skill, whose soldiers were superior arti- 
zans and excellent workmen, capable of building 
fortresses, cities, &c., and as the Romans made 
London their grand emporium, the city would 
have had full advantage of their architectural 
ability. We further learn that the Emperor 
Claudius (who built Gloster, Glevum and Col- 
chester Colonia) remodelled London and called 
it Auguster; in the reign of Nero it was deemed 
the largest and most opulent city in the British 
Islands. 

Various remains of Roman art and grandeur 
have been found in London at various times, even 
down to the building of the great Metropolitan 
Railway, w^here now the iron horse traverses the 
subterraneous passages of the present great city, 
which of itself is sufficient proof of its being at 
one time a place of much importance ; it is not 
my intention however to give a history of Lon- 
don from its foundation to the Norman conquest 



124 <^'^^ ^^^ Atlantic. 



1 



and down to the present time, but confine myself 
to London as it is, with its surroundings, giving 
an account only of that we visited and saw ; so 
by way of commencement I will take my read- 
ers to — 

St. Paul's Cathedral. — In 6io Ethclbert, 
King of Kent, undertook the building of the 
church of St. Paul, and Erkenwald, Bishop of 
London, who died about the year 686, gave large 
sums of money towards its completion, but in 961 
it is supposed this edifice was destroyed by fire 
and rebuilt within the following year. King 
Athelstan endowed it '' with divers fair Lord- 
ships," and here the King was interred, and his 
son Edmond Ironsides crowned. 

William the Conqueror bestowed some large 
estates upon St. Pauls, but towards the close of 
his reign it was again destroyed by fire, and then 
Maurice, Bishop of London "conceived" {says 
Stowe) "the vast design of erecting the magnifi- 
cent structure which immediately preceded the 
present cathedral, a work that men of that time 
judged would never be completed," so vast were 
its dimensions and slow its progress that it took, 
we a^"e informed, 230 years to complete it. 

The great clock Avas a wonderful piece of me- 
chanism, and a splendid ornament, the figure of 
an angel pointed to the hour, in the sight of pass- 
ers by— "a heavenly messenger marking the pro- 
gress of time." 

During the civil war the whole church, except 



O'er the Atlantic. 125 

the choir, was used for stables and phices for the 
accommodation of soldiers, and its moneys col- 
lected for repairs, seized by the Parliament ; thus 
within the walls was heard the clatter of horses' 
hoofs, and the jingle of the sabres and spurs of 
the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell's army, togeth- 
er with the coarse laugh, rude jest and muttered 
curses of a class of people fully determined to 
carry out the object in view — that of abolishing 
monarchial rule. At the restoration a public 
subscription w^as gotten up to put it in repair 
but before the work was began it again became 
a prey to the great fire of 1666, upon which oc- 
casion it was reduced to a mass of smouldering 
ruins. 

"On June 21st, 1675, Sir Christopher Wren 
began the building of the present edifice, and 
the choir was opened for divine service on Dec. 
2nd, 1697 ; the last or highest stone of the build- 
ing was laid on the top of the lantern in 17 10. 
Thus it occupied 35 years in its completion, un- 
der one architect, one master mason, and under 
one prelate, Dr. Compton, Bishop of London. 

The large organ built in. 1853 contains 60 
sounding stops, viz : Great organ t6, choir 12, 
solo 9, swell 13, pedal 10, besides accessory stops, 
movements, &c., and there are 4,004 pipes in it. 

A flight of 260 steps takes the visitor to the 
whispering gallery, wherein the slightest whisper 
can be heard along the wall, by two persons 
standing a long way apart as if that of a loud 



126 O'er tJie Atlajitic, 

voice — 560 steps leads to the upper gallery and 616 
to the hall, from where can be had a most magni- 
ficent view of the city and suburbs. 

The whispering gallery is 140 yards in cir- 
cumference, the great bell 10 feet in diameter, 
the metal of which is ten inches thick and 
weight 11,474 pounds; this immense weight is 
suspended forty feet from the floor, and the hour 
is struck on this bell by a hammer weighing 145 
pounds. 

The clock has two faces of 57 feet in circum- 
ference, or nearly 20 feet in diameter, the minute 
hands on each face are nine feet eight inches 
long and weigh 75 pounds, the hour hands are 
five feet nine inches long and weigh 44 pounds, 
the hour figures are two feet two inches long, the 
pendulum 16 feet with a weight at the bottom of 
T08 pounds, yet it is suspended by a spring one- 
eighth of an inch in thickness. 

From the pavement to the top of the cross over 
the dome is upwards of 360 feet, and the lantern 
which crowns the Cathedral is said to weigh 700 
tons, the ball is six feet in diameter, its weight 
5,600 pounds, and has ample room for the accom- 
modation within of twelve persons ; thirty feet 
above it is the cross, which weighs 3,360 pounds 
and is fifteen feet high." 

In the vaults are the remains of celebrated 
persons, among whom I may name Sir Chris, 
Wren, who died in 1723, in the 91st vear of his 
age. Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington ; 



6>Vr the Atlantic. 127 

and upwards of fifty elegant monuments by va- 
rious masters adorn the interior, all erected a 
the public expense to the memory of departed 
celebrities, the cost of which I was informed 
amounts to no less a sum than one hundred and 
fifty thousand pounds, that of Lord Nelson, Earl 
Howe, Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Lord Rodney 
costing upwards of ^6,000 each. 

In the crypt the most conspicuous and elabo- 
rate are the tombs of Nelson and Wellington 
the latter is very fine, and has near it the funeral 
car with all the trappings and appointments 
which conveyed to their last resting place all 
that was once mortal of the '"''Iron Duke.'' His 
coronet (deprived of its precious stones) and 
baton lie on top of the sarcophagus, solitary 
memorials of the past, that coronet which on so 
many occasions shed lustre around amid pomp 
and state, but now dismantled and doomed to 
adorn, like that baton which he carried on many 
a battle field, the last resting place of its once 
illustrious wearer. 

More about London in my next — when I will 
request my readers to accompany me into the 

TOWER. 



128 O'er the Atlantic. 



LETTER XII. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

London Continued. — The Tower of London, 
a very extensive building, • is now the 
receptacle for arms, &c., of the naval and military 
school, both ancient and modern. It is of Nor- 
man architecture, and was founded by William 
the Conqueror as a fortress, but has since then 
served for various purposes, even as the residence 
of Royalty, for several of the English Monarchs 
have occupied it as a palace ; it is therefore well 
worthy of a visit, and perhaps it may be to others 
as it was to the writer, the most interesting place 
in all England. 

After passing through two gateways and across 
the moat in charge of a Government official, pe- 
culiarly dressed and commonly known as a "beef 
eater," we were soon within the walls, wherein 
some of the blackest deeds that ever disgraced 
tlie pages of history have been enacted, and stood 
in front of the Traitor's gate, which opens into 
the fortress from the river Thames, through 
which all the State prisoners were once brought 



O'er the Atlantic. 131 

the name of Anne Boleyn, one of the several 
wives of Henry VIII, whom he cnielly 

I caused to be beheaded, is inscribed on the wall 
by one of the unhappy gentlemen imprisoned 
here in those days, and who also lost their lives on 
her account ; we will pass by several towers of 

I little or no interest and enter the 

Beauchamp Tower — erected during the reign 

1 of John, 1 1 19, and Henry III, 1216. This tower 
derives its name from Thomas de Beauchamp, 
Earl of Warwick, who was imprisoned in it in 

j 1397, and is the most interesting of the whole, 
for very many distinguished prisoners have, from 
time to time, languished and died in this tower. 

I Near the entrance is inscribed the name of Mar- 

' maduke Neville, one of the unfortunate adherents 

I to the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots. In one 
of the recesses is inscribed the following : " Since 
fortune hath chosen that my hope should go to 
the wind to complain, I wish the time were de- 
stroyed, my planet being ever sad and unpropi- 
tious. Signed, William Tyrrel, 1541." Near 
the fire place is the name of Philip Howard, 
Earl of Arundel, and inscribed under is the follow- 
ing : " The more suffering with Christ in this world, 
the more glory with Christ in the next world." 
He was the eldest son of Thomas, Duke of Nor- 
folk, who was beheaded in 1572 for aspiring to 
the hand of Mary, Queen of Scots, and was im- 
prisoned for his devotedness to the Romish yeli- 

gion ; he lingered and died at the age of 39 in 



1^2 O'er the Atlantie. 

liis prison cell. Near by and around the old fire 
place are various other inscriptions, among 
which is that of Dudley, Earl of Warwick, whose 
fatlier endeavored to place the crown of England 
on the head of Lady Jane Grey, which rash am- 
bitious act (Lady Jane being his daughter-in- 
law) deprived him of his head, and his son died 
in prison. In another recess is the name *' G. 
Gyfford, August 8tli, 1586" — and a great many 
rude sculptures of armc^rial bearings adorn the 
walls of this tower, the liandiwork of those un- 
fortunate occupants, who from time to time did 
thus wile in solitude many an irksome hour away, 
and are now mementos of those days when a 
man or woman's life was mere bagatelle. Well 
may the Lady Jane Grey express herself in the 
following lines : 

" To mortal's common fate thy mind resign 
My lot to-day to-morrow may be thine." 
Leaving this "chamber of horrors" we wended 
our way to the Horse Armory, viewing, as we 
went along, some very ancient cannon, some of 
which were very interesting, especially those 
constructed of wrought iron bars welded togeth- 
er, encircled witli iron hoops, after cask making- 
fashion ; stone sliot were used in those days 
(1400), and not the least interesting among those 
engines of war was an iron gun, which, after 
being 300 years in the bottom of the sea, was re- 
covered by divers, among other things, from the 
wreck of the " Mary Rose," one of tlie ships of 
war of Henrv VIII. The 



0\'r the Atlantic. 129 

to their tower prison, perhaps never to leave it in 
this life, for within that gate once, the poor cap- 
tive was wholly subject to the w^ill and caprice of 
monarchial power, and liis life, for a given time, 
not worth a British farthing. It would be next 
to an impossibility for man to describe all the 
black deeds and treacherous doings committed 
here during the early history of England's Kings 
and Queens, where torture and cruelty in various 
ways, the axe and the block reigned supreme ; 
therefore I will proceed as we were shown, and 
take my readers into the — 

White Tower. — This tower is the oldest and 
principal building, and stands in the centre of 
the fortification. A spiral staircase of massive 
stone between walls of immense thickness leads 
into the various apartments, among which is the 
prison room and cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, 
wherein he wrote his history of the world ; near 
the entrance to the cell are inscriptions rudely 
cut in the stones by Rudstow, Fane and CulpepJ 
per, who were implicated in Sir Thomas Wyatt's 
rebellion in 1553, w^hich proved so fatal to Lady 
Jane Grey, and for which Sir Thomas Avas be- 
headed in the same year. A large room on the 
upper floor was used as a council room by va- 
rious Kings, a room of rare antiquity. It was in 
this room that the Protector Richard, Duke of 
Gloster, ordered Lord Hastings to be beheaded, 
ere he, Richard, sat down to his dinner. Tliis 
room, as are several others in this tow^er, is now 



130 O'er the Atlantic. 

used as a depository for small arms, ingeniously 
arranged so as to resemble flowers, &c. The 

B[,()ODY Tower — is the scene of the murder of 
the young Princes, sons of Edward I\% in 
1483/ The 

Bell Tower — wherein is hung the alarm bell 
of the garrison, was in olden time a prison lodg- 
ing. In it was imprisoned the Bishop of Rocli- 
ester by command of Henry VIII, it was also 
the lodging place of Queen Elizabeth, when a 
prisoner here by command of her sister Mary 
(bloody Mary), Avho wielded so much power 
during her eventful reign. The 

Devereux Tower — derives its name from Rob- 
ert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the great favorite 
of Oiieen Elizabeth, who was confined therein, 
and whose death she so much mourned, notw^ith- 
standing that he was executed by her own order, 
for, it is said, plotting against her life. Eliza- 
l:)eth's great struggle between resentment and af- 
fection, ere she could sign the death warrant, 
and of which she so bitterly repented when too 
late, is too well known to need any further com- 
ments from me on the subject. The 

BowYER Tower — contains a gloomy room 
wherein George, Duke of Clarence, is said to 
have been drowned in a butt of wine in 1474. 
'J1ie 

Brick Tower — was the prison lodging of Lady 
Jane (irey, and the 

Martin Tower — was also a prison lodging ; 



0\'r the Atlantic. 135 

are also exliibited to the curious. On our re- 
turn through the Horse Armory from this room 
our attention was particularly directed to an effigy 
of Charles I on horseback, dressed in a com- 
plete suit of rich gilt armor, presented to him by 
the corporation of the city of London, which was 
very beautiful indeed. Passing from here we next 
visited the fire and bomb proof njom containing 
the— 

Regalia of England — the splendor of which 
we will not attempt to describe. Grouped to- 
gether on a large stand, covered with crimson 
cloth and encircled with a massive iron railing, 
jealously guarded within and without, is the re- 
galia of England's sovereigns, comprising the 
Victoria Crown, composed of gold and silver, 
diamonds and other precious stones, the cap of 
which is purple velvet. St. Edward's Crown, 
composed of gold, embellished with diamonds, 
rubies, emeralds, pearls, &c. The Prince of 
AVales' crown is of pure gold with no ornaments. 
The Queen's crown, i. e., that worn by the King's 
consort, and the Queen's diadem made for the con 
sort of James II, are very handsome; both are 
studded with diamonds of a large size and of the 
purest water, artistically embellished with 
the finest of pearls. St. Edward's staff is of 
gold, fovir feet seven inches in length, and is 
used at coronations, when it is carried before the 
King or Queen, as it may be. It is surmounted 
by an orb said to contain a portion of the true 



136 O'er the Atlantic. 

cross''" The Royal Sceptre is of gold adorn- 
ed with costly jewels. The Rod of Equity is of 
gold and ornamented with diamonds. The 
Queen's Sceptre is of very rich workmanship 
beautifully adorned with precious stones. An Ivory 
Sceptre was made for James II's Queen, and 
another richly wrought golden sceptre was made 
for William Ill's Queen. Several other arti- 
cles, generally used at coronations, such as 
swords, &c., complete the regalia, the value of 
which, I presume, would be difficult to esti- 
mate. 

We will now take our leave of this old fortress, 
prison, palace and armory, Avith its secret passag- 
es, torture rooms, dungeons, cells and prison lodg- 
ings, all of which are identified with the dark 
ages in which the oldest portion of it was built, 
and as Ave pass by, pause before that gloomy 
archway, the "Traitor's Gate," where oftentimes 
have royalty, nobility, the clergy and gentry 
passed its threshold, to exchange for the bril- 
liancy of court, pomp and splendor, lofty posi- 
tions and the comforts of home, the cold and 
damp walls of a dungeon, the torture room, and 
last, but not least welcome, the friendly services 
of the headsman. Sad indeed is thy record, old 
tower ; a detailed account of the atrocities com- 
mitted within thy walls would fill volumes ; for 
eight hundred years hast thou served for various 

* The Cross of our Saviour. 



O'er the Atlantic, 133 

Horse Armory — contains on equestrian statues 
the armor worn by various Kings and others of 
note, which were superceded during the seven- 
teenth century, by the general use of firearms. 
In this room has been collected together the 
armor and weapons of almost every age of Eng- 
lish history. Numerous military trophies and 
emblems adorn the walls and ceilings, and the 
windows are of stained glass embellished with 
armorial bearings. The equestrian figures, a 
good representation of life, occupy the centre of 
the apartment, with the horses' heads fronting 
the visitor, clad in the various suits of armor of 
the period between the reign of Edward I 
and James II (1272 to 1683), commencing 
with the old Asiatic chain mail down to the suits 
of half armor adopted by Charles I ; but to 
give a descriptive account of the whole would 
occupy more time and space than the writer can 
afford — the reader will therefore have to content 
himself with a brief description of No. i, viz., 
that on the effigy of Edward I, which is of chain, 
with heavy spurs and shield of kite shape. The 
figure is represented in the act of drawing his 
sword. This was in the time of Bruce and Wal- 
lace, and in such suits were fought, won and lost 
the fields of Dunbar, Bannock-burn, &c. From 
this reign the various suits on the other effigies 
appear to change in style, as does wearing 
apparel of the present period, some suits varying 
much in style and finish. And there are upwards 
of a score of the figures clad in what may be 



134 ^'(^f' f^i^ Atlantic, 

termed the richest style of armor, among which 
is that worn formerly by Henry, Prince of Wales, 
son of James I, in 1612. There are also sev- 
eral very fine suits of foreign armor deposited here, 
viz., Turkish, Greek, Chinese, Japanese, Roman, 
&c. Ancient battle axes, swords, spears, daggers, 
anelaces, spurs, helmets, gauntlets, powder-horns 
and sundry pieces of armor occupy prominent 
positions in this and adjoining rooms. 

In a room adjoining that called Queen Eliza- 
beth's Armory are also many beautiful specimens 
of old armor, and the first thing that attract- 
ed oiu" attention were two figures clad in elegant 
and very bright armor, and a part of the keel of 
the ship of Avar " Royal George," which sank at 
Spithead when at anchor there in August, 1782. 
This apartment is devoted almost exclusively to 
oriental arms and armor, military trophies, &c., 
among w^hich are several from Waterloo, 1815, 
kettle drums from Blenheim, 1704, and a host of 
others from India and other places where the 
British arms have been triumphant. Here we 
saw the sw^ord and sash of the late Duke of York, 
the cloak of Gen. Wolfe, which he wore when 
killed at Quebec in 1759, and in 

Queen Elizabeth's Armory — we were showm 
the beheading block whereon Lords Bal merino, 
Kilmarnock and Lovat were beheaded in 1746, 
and the axe used on the occasion ; thumb screws 
and other instruments of torture and punishment 
so often used in those days to extort confession, 



O'er the Atlantic. 137 

purposes, during which time tlie renowned, tiie 
notorious and the innocent have pined within 
thy walls until grim death generously relieved 
them of thy forced hospitality ; and could thy 
chapel, wherein rests so many of thy victims, but 
deliver up its dead to life, much could be related 
of thee and thy keepers which has never been 
committed to history. 

In my next I will request my readers to ac- 
company me to Hampton Court, and Windsor 
Castle. 



138 O'er the A flan tie. 



LETTER XIII. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

Hampton Court. — Having been permitted to 
emerge in safety from the confines of the old Tow- 
er, we the following day went by rail to Hampton 
Court. This palatial residence is situated on the 
right bank of the river Thames, twelve miles out 
of London, and was built by Thomas, Cardinal 
Wolsey, during the reign of Henry VIII., 
whose Prime Minister he was for some time ; 1 
may say minister and favorite, for Wolsey during 
his days of clover was the readiest of all that 
monarch's council to advance his capricious 
whims, and lewd, barbarous conduct, in return for 
which, all matters of state fell to his goverance 
alone ; indeed, such was his rule that he became 
supreme, and such was the power he wielded 
over King and Court, that he affected to govern 
without Parliaments, two of which were onl}^ 
held for fourteen years. He was for many rea- 
sons the disgrace of his profession, "being lewd 
and vicious himself, and serving the King (says 
his biographer) in all his secret pleasures; his 



O'er the Atlantic. 139 

pride and pomp was unbounded and his ambition 
in proportion, for he even aspired to the Pope- 
dom, which he failed to obtain. He became the 
owner of vast possessions and his income exceed- 
ed the revenues of the Crown, thus enabling him 
to live in the most princely style;" but it is a 
" long lane that has no turning," for he at last 
became unpopular with his libertine master, the 
King, and, eventually, a matter connected with 
the divorce of Queen Catharine (Catharine of 
Arragon) and other matters wherein the King 
was directly interested, shook his power and in- 
fluence to that extent over his Royal master, that 
on October 28, 1529, he was commanded to give 
up the great seal, and his goods were all seized 
for the King's use and himself impeached in 
Parliament for exercising power contrary to law, 
and for the scandalous irregularities of his life. His 
enemies continued to revile him, and disaster 
after disaster followed him until he died, when 
under arrest for treason, November 29, 1530. In 
his last moments he " regretted that he had not 
served God with the same fidelity that he had his 
King." A little before he died he addressed him- 
himself in the following words to Sir William 
Kingston, Constable of the tower, who had him 
in custodv : 

" I pray you have me heartily recommended 
unto his royal majesty, and beseech him on my 
behalf to call to his remembrance all matters 
that have passed between us from the beginning, 
especially with regard to his business with the 



I40 O'er the Atlantic. 

Queen, and then lie will know in his conscience 
whether I have offended him. 

" He is a prince of a most royal carriage, and 
hath a princely heart and rather than he will 
miss or want any part of his will, he will endan- 
ger the one-half of his kingdom. I do assure 
you that I have often kneeled before him, some 
times three hours. together, to persuade him from 
his w^ill and appetite, but could not prevail. 
Therefore, let me advise you, if you be one of 
the privy council, as by your Avisdom you are fit, 
take care what you put into the King's head, for 
you can never put it out again." — Cavendis/i. 

Thus ended the days of the man who from 
poverty raised himself to be prime minister of 
England, the favorite of Emperors, Kings and 
Princes, and the terror of thousands. A man 
who wielded such power and influence as but 
few if any but Richlieu of France ever did, 
and to whom, history, perhaps has not done just 
ice. I will now proceed to give a brief descrip- 
tion of his once princely residence : 

Hampton Court, long before Wolsey became 
disgraced, but about the time the King began to 
be jealous of the pomp and splendor he lived in, 
suddenly became the property of the latter. 
Stowe remarks of the circumstance thus : "The 
princely residence began to create envy at court. 
The King therefore took occasion to question 
the Cardinal as to his intentions of building a 
palace that so far surpassed any of the royal pal- 
aces in England," to which the Cardinal cun- 
ningly replied "that he was only trying to form 



O'er the Atlantic, 141 

a residence worthy of so great a 'monarch, and 
that Hampton Court palace was the property of 
King Henry the VUI." This princely gift gained 
him much favor, and was the immediate means 
of supporting his waning influence. In return 
i)X this generous present Henry, who determined 
not to be outdone in generosity, bestowed upon 
the Cardinal the Manor of Richmond, an old fa- 
vorite residence of Henry VH, and with him a 
favorite resort also, during the early part of his 
reign. Since whicli time Hampton Court lias 
been tlie residence of several of the monarchs 
of England, as also that of Oliver Crom- 
well and his family. Henry VI was born 
here October 12th, 1537, and liis mother, 

I Jane Seymour, only survived his birtli a few 
davs. She was one of the wives of Henry 

! VIII, and was married to the brute the day after 
the unfortunate Anne Boleyn was beheaded; but 
short was her reign as Queen, for she died in 
about a vear after her marriage. And had slie 
lived much longer the probability would have 
been that she, like her predecessors, would have 
gone headless to the grave. Catharine Howard 
was his next Queen at Hampton Court, and 
Catharine Parr followed ; the former shared tlie 
fate of Anne Boleyn, and the latter but narrowly 
escaped it also, but ere another op- 
portunity offered for her decapitation, the tyrani- 
cal, obstinate, unfeeling and lewd Henry VIII 
ceased to exist in tliis life. 



142 O'er the Atlantic. 

Numerous Kings and Queens continued to 
spend a great portion of their time at Hampton 
Court, until the reign of George II, who, ac- 
companied by his Queen, Caroline, were the last 
of royalty who resided there. 

In its present state Hampton Court is occupied 
partly by private individuals, pensioners upon 
the Royal bounty of the Crown, principally, in- 
deed, I may say all. Ladies of rank without 
w^ealth, in plain English, empty title ladies, whose 
sires or husbands have faithfully served their 
country, leaving nothing but a good record and a 
name behind them at the time of their death. 
Apart from the rooms allotted to their use are 
the state apartments, open to the public gratui- 
tously on every day of the week except Friday, 
as are also the beautiful and very extensive 
grounds w^hich surround it. 

In the state apartments are to be seen beautiful 
and ancient tapestry, embracing Scriptural and 
other subjects. Oil paintings, by various masters, 
of Monarchs, Princes, nobility, and officers of 
the army and navy, battle and scriptural scenes, 
&c., some of which are by the most eminent art- 
ists of their time. There are also in addition to 
the paintings very ancient furniture, such as mir- 
rors, bedsteads, tables, and among which is the 
state bed and hangings of Queen Anne, a clock 
which goes for twelve months without winding, 
some fine specimens of crockery and a variety of 
other equally interesting relics. 



O'er the Atlatittc. 143 

The writer having taken his readers hurriedly 
through this ancient palace, for to give in detail 
what is to be seen there, would, as he has had oc- 
casion to remark heretofore, "occupy too much 
time and space," will therefore have to request 
his readers to accompany him to a palace of still 
more grandeur and antiquity ; viz : that of — 

Windsor Castle. — This immense palace is» 
without exception, the finest and largest of the 
Royal residences in the united Kingdom, and so 
vast is its size that it may be termed a town in 
itself. 

It was first intended for a fortress by William 
the Conqueror. Henry I enlarged it consid- 
erably, and in 11 70 Henry l\ held a Parlia- 
ment there, at which William, King of Scotland, 
and his brother David were present. Edwards 
I and n made it their constant residence. In 
1344 Edw^ard III made vast improvements 
and additions to it. It was this Prince who here 
instituted the order of the garter on St. George's 
day wath much pomp and ceremony in 1349. Ed- 
ward IV rebuilt on a large scale the beautiful 
chapel of St. George, and Henrys VII and 
VIII did much to enlarge and beautify the build- 
ings and grounds. Queen Mary and her consort, 
Philip of Spain, made a grand entry into it in 
1545, after their marriage at Winchester. Eliza- 
beth, Charles I and II, William III, George 
III, and especially George IV have con- 
tributed much to the improvement and enlarge- 



M4 CTcr the Atlantic. 

meiit of Windi,or Castle, but to the latter the 
very magnificent alteration made during his 
reign, will for ages untold be a monument to his 
memory. What remained unfinished at the time 
of his demise were completed by William IV* 
and her present majesty Queen Victoria. The 
whole of those improvements, it is said, cost up. 
wards of one million pounds sterling, and still 
mechanics are at work adding, embellishing, re- 
pairing and keeping in repair this ancient and 
very interesting structure. 

The Queen and the late Prince consort sur- 
rounded by their family oftentimes retired to 
Windsor from the gaiety and pleasures of Lon- 
don. Indeed, Her Majesty had but left the Castle 
on the day previous to our visit, for her Scottish 
residence Balmoral, in the north of Scotland, 
where she generally spends every year a few 
weeks among her loyal and loving Scotch subjects. 
Having obtained our cards of admission 
through a friend before leaving London, we were 
soon ushered into the state apartments, first reg- 
istering our names on the visitors' book as we 
entered the lobby, where stood one of Her Maj- 
esty's servants clad in the Royal livery, that of 
scarlet turned up with gold lace. The state 
apartments, the round tower and St. George's 
chapel are all that arc shown during Her Majes- 
ty's absence. 'J^ie private apartments, i. e., those 
wherein she resides, setting royalty, I may say, 
aside, can only be seen during the time that the 
court is here. 



0\t the Atlantic. 145 

We first entered the audience chamber, tlie 
walls of wliich are hung with fine Goberlin tapes- 
try, illustrative partly of the history of Queen 
Esther and Mordecai, and oil paintings of Wil- 
liam II, Frederick, Prince of Orange, and Mary, 
Oueen of Scots. Next is the- Vandyke room, 
containing about thirty beautiful portraits by tiie 
eminent artist of that name; they represent 
Kings, Queens, Princes, nobles and others. 

The State Drawing room contains a few very 
fine vScriptural paintings and Royal portraits by 
Ruccarolli. 

The Sta];e Ante-room, the ceiling of which is 
painted by X'erri, representing a banquet of the 
(rods, contains some verv fine carving, and a 
stained glass portrait of George III is placed 
over the fireplace. From here we passed over 
the grand staircase into the vestibule which con- 
tains militarv trophies and suits of armor highlv 
interesting, and then entered the — 

Waterloo Chamber, an elegant large room. 
On the walls are hung various portraits by Sir 
Thomas Lawrence, among which is a very fine 
one of the Duke of Wellington, as he appeared 
in the city on the day of thanksgiving after the 
battle of Waterloo, so fatal t(j the interest of the 
first Napoleon, but the means. of restoring peace 
and confidence in Euro})e. 

The Presence Chamber, the carving and glid- 
ing in this room is grand, and the walls are hung 
with the finest and richest of (robelin tapestrv, 
descriptive of the history of the golden fieece. 

F 



146 O'er the Atlantic. 

In my next I will give to my readers the re- 
mainder of what we saw in Windsor Castle, as 
also what other sights and scenes we saw during 
our stay in the great metropolis of Great Britain, 
and then leave its hospitable shore for a while to 
visit France. 



O'c]- the Atlantic. 147 



LETTER XIV. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

Windsor Castle, Continued. — From the " Pres- 
ence Chamber" we were conducted into St. 
George's Hall, a room two hundred feet long, thir- 
ty-four feet broad and thirty-two feet liigh. It is 
the grand banqueting hall, the ceiling is deco- 
rated with tlie armorial bearings of all the knights 
of the garter up to the present time, and on the 
walls are many line portraits in oil of all the 
Sovereigns from James 1 to George IV. 
The Guard Chamber contains arms and specimens 
of ancient armor very ingeniouslv arranged on 
the walls, and there are several life-like effigies, 
armed cap-a-pie., lance in hand, and busts of 
Wellington and Marlborough, over the heads of 
which are placed silk banners, regularly renewed 
on the anniversaries of the battles of Waterloo 
and Blenheim. Over the fire place is the beau- 
tiful shield, in a glass case, which was presented 
by Frances I, of France, to Henry VIII> 
on the field of the Cloth of Gold, so called from 
the gorgeous and magnificent display made on 



148 O'er the Atlantic. 

that occasion by those Monarch s and their 
retinues, when they met socially between the two 
towns named Guisnes and Ardres, in France, in 
1520, where also " tlie nobility of France and 
England" displayed their magnificence with such 
emulation and profuse expense, as to procure for 
the place of interview the name of " the Field 
of the Cloth of Gold." 

Among numerous otlier relics and curiosities 
in this Chamber are two chairs, one made from 
tlie oak of AUoway Kirk (immortalized by Burns 
in his poem of Tam O'Shanter and Souter John- 
ny), and the other from the oak tree where the 
13uke of Wellington and staff stood while direct- 
ing the battle of Waterloo. The Queen s Fresejice 
CJianiher was the last room Ave were shown into, 
the ceiling of which is beautifully painted by 
Verrio, representing Catharine, Queen of Charles 
11, supported by Religion, Prudence, Forti- 
tude, and other virtues attending her, and the 
walls are hung with gobelin tapestry, containing 
the illustrative history (as in tlie Audience Cham- 
ber) of Oueen Esther and Mordecai. We next 
proceeded to view St. George's Chapel^ the exterior 
of which bears on its face the marks of old age^ 
and entered just as preparations were being made 
to hold the regular afternoon service. So imitat- 
ing the example set us by other visitors, we ap- 
})ropriated to ourselves seats, and were shortly 
afterwards silent listeners to the most beautiful 
chantinof 1 ever heard, the fine undulatincr tones 



O'er the Atlantic, 149 

of the organ and the voices of some of the juve- 
nile chanters being of the most exquisite kind. 
The service was in full cathedral style, and was 
conducted with much solemnity ; indeed, it was 
a solemn and grand manner of worshiping 
Almighty God, vrhich even of itself amply repaid 
me for visiting Windsor Castle. 

Divine worship being over we proceeded to 
view all that was interesting within this ancient 
edifice. The carving in oak and stone are very 
fine, as are also the stained and painted windows, 
especially that recently erected by the Queen to 
the memory of the Prince Consort, to whom she 
was devotedly attached and whose memory she 
lias never ceased to mourn. A tribute his mem- 
ory is not undeserving of, for he was not only a 
great man but a good man, beloved by all, af- 
fable and kind, and in every respect fitted for the 
proud position he was destined to fill while on 
earth.^- A character his children would do well 
to emulate, especially the Prince of Wales, who 
will sooner or later have to play an important 
part in the State affairs of Great Britain. 

The choir wherein divine service is lield is the 
place where the knights of the garter are in- 
stalled, and over each of their stalls (sitting- 
places) is suspended each knight's respective 
banner with his armorial bearings emblazoned 
tlicreon, directly under which is placed the hel- 

* The Prince, during his lifetime, was very partial lo 
Windsor, and made it liis principal and favorite residence. 



150 O'er the Atlantic. 

met, crest, sword and mantle, and at the back of 
each stall is a brass lacquered plate, inscribed 
with the name, title and style of each of the fol- 
lowers of St. George. A great many of such 
plates adorn the backs of some of the stalls, 
Avhercon are recorded the names of those knights 
who have from time to time gone to that world 
where title and style a^aileth them not, and on 
the several windows of the choir are also painted 
their respective coats c>f arms. 

The Queen s Closet, and the stalls wherein sit 
the various members of the Royal familv are 
eagerly sought for and scrutinized closely bv 
visitors, and lastly the various tombs are visited. 
The royal tomb or vault is near the altar, and I 
was informed only contains the remains of 
Charles I, Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. 
Various others of the royal family being interred 
elsewliere. In a small chapel is a splendid mar- 
ble monument to the memory of that most ex- 
cellent and estimable lady the Princess Charh)tte, 
wife of the late King Leopold, of Belgium. It 
represents the body of the deceased on a bier, 
covered with drapery, with an attendant at each 
corner kneeling in despondency and sorrow ; in 
the back ground is represented the spirit ascend- 
ing, supported bv two angels, one of whom bears 
aloft her infant child. This elegant piece of 
workmanship appears to great advantage from 
the reflection of the stained glass window of the 
little chapel, which diffuses a beautiful soft gold- 



O'er the Atlantic. 151 

en light around. There are several other very 
fine monuments there, one recently erected by 
order of the Queen to the memory of the hus- 
band of the Princess Charlotte ("Leopold, King 
of the Belgians,") who was the Queen's uncle, 
and several others to the memory of others of 

' the royal family, military and naval heroes, &c. 
And beneath a lofty stone called the royal tomb- 

i house erected by Henry VIII, are the re- 
mains of the Princess Amelia, 18 10 — Princess 

, Charlotte, 1818 — Duke of Kent, 1820 — George 

! .Ill, 1820 Duke of York, 1827 George 

IV, 1830 — William IV, 1837 — Princess Au- 
gusta, 1820, and the Dowager Queen Adelaide, 

I 1849. The "Duke of Kent" was the father of 
the present Queen, and had he been permitted to 

I survive "William IV," would have been 
King of Great Britain ; hence, why his only 
child, Victoria, became Queen, a position she has 
filled for thirty years with the greatest honor 
and credit, respected and beloved both at home 
and abroad. The Dutchess of Kent (the Queen's 
mother) and Prince Albert are interred in the 
vault at Frogmore l^ouse, the late residence of 
the Dutchess, which is also open to visitors, but 
time would not permit of our going there. 

Before leaving Windsor Castle we visited the 
Round Tower and Terrace grounds. One hun- 
dred steps, then a wide spiral stairway, and as 
many more, perhaps double the quantity of steps 
brought us to the top of the former, and from 



152 ' 0\n' the Atlantic. 

which we obtained au excellent view of the Cas- 
tle and grounds, and also of the several counties 
(^f Berks, Bucks, Surrey, Middlesex, Oxford, 
Hants, Wilts, Essex, Hertford, Bedford and 
Kent. From tlie flagstaff towering high above 
us is hoisted to the breeze, while Her Majesty 
resides in the castle, the royal standard, and we 
were informed that in apartments in this tower, 
David, King of Scotland and France, and the 
Earl of Surrey were confined. At present it is 
converted into apartments for the accommoda- 
tion of visitors, &c. 

While on the terrace we obtained an excellent 
view of the winding river, "old father Thames," 
and of Eaton College, founded in 1440 by Henry 
\'I, so popular as one of the upper schools 
of England. We also saw a monster cannon im- 
ported from China, which weighs over seven 
tons. Many other things worthy of note are to 
be seen in and around Windsor Castle, for in- 
stance, the royal mews (Queen's stables), riding 
school, gardens, the home Park, Frogmore lodge. 
Ascot race course, Virginia water, &c. But alas, 
we had no time to visit thc^e places, so had re- 
luctantly to bid old Windsor and its fine castle 
farewell, and take the six p. m. train for London, 
via. Paddington, thence by the '^ Metropolitan 
underground railway" to Moorgate street in the 
city, near to our hotel in Basinghall street, where 
w^e arrived quite fatigued, yet well satisfied with 
our trip to Windsor. 



O'er the Atlantic. i53 

I will now have to "make a long story short," 
contenting myself with giving my readers but a 
brief account of the other places we visited dur- 
ing our stay in London, some of which 
were very interesting. I will first name the 
British Museum, and let me here remark that no 
person should visit London without going to see 
this honeycomb of antiquities and rare curiosi- 
ties, to enumerate which would occupy a 
lifetime of scores of years. Suffice it to say that 
it contains in part, mummies, skeletons ol ani- 
mals, stuffed birds, ancient and modern coins, 
minerals, precious stones, golden nuggets, gold 
dust, ancient and modern sculpture, ancient 
tombs from Asia, quaint and costly relics from 
. Nineveh, ancient documents, letters, seals, books, 
pictures, statuary and hosts of other remarka- 
ble, nay, astonishing, things of the past ages, 
dating back thousands of years beyond the 
christian era. To do justice to which, months 
should be spent by the visitor and antiquarian in 
exploring this seat of wonder, containing won- 
ders ; and if you should want to see anything 
that the human mind can think of, go to the 
British Museum, and I verily believe you will 
find it there. 

I will now proceed to give an equally briel ac- 
count of Sydenham Crystal Palace, the most mag- 
nificent place, I believe, in the world. We spent 
there a whole day, and I was only too sorry 
when leaving, to know I could not make it con- 



154 O^cr the Atlantic, 

venient to go there again,' but I came away 
charmed with the land of flowers, beautiful 
shrubbery, playing fountains, elegant statuary, 
smooth terraces, fine gravel walks, shady little 
nooks, beautiful fish ponds abounding'^witli gold- 
en and other fish. Its hills and dales, romantic and 
picturesque beyond conception, and lastly its truly 
magnificent and spacious glass building, abound- 
ing with novelties of every age. Sydenham Pal- 
ace is that, to a certain extent, which was erected 
in 1851, in Hyde Park, London, for the exhibition 
of industry of all nations, taken down and re- 
moved to this place for re-erection, which has 
been done with some further improvements and 
alterations, making it to-day the wonder and ad- 
miration of the world. Indeed, the vast build- 
ing is a city of workshops and stores in itself! 
And while we were within its glass walls, 
I had the pleasure of hearing the celebrat- 
ed English tenor singer, Sims Reeves, and others 
of vocal celebrity, male and female, among 
whom was Madam Santan Dolby, a star of much 
magnitude in the profession. They sang in the 
great Handel Orchestra, w4iich is capable of ac- 
commodating four thousand performers. 

The building is divided into courts, represent- 
ing the architecture, &c., peculiar to the various 
countries and places they are named after, of 
which there are ten ; viz : — the Egyptian court, 
Greek, Roman, Alhambra, Nineveh, Byzantine, 
English, Mediaeval, Renaissance and Italian 



O'er the Atlantic. 155 

courts. There is also a place called the Pompei- 
an house, and there are also what may be termed 
courts of industry, which are open for the man- 
ufacture and sale of various articles to visitors ; 
for instance, the ^'Sheffield court'' is an establish- 
ment open for the sale of what we call in 
America, hardw^are, which means there iron-mon- 
gery, and which includes cutlery, &c. This court 
is a beautiful structure of glass and iron. In the 
BirmingJiam court, another very fine place, is ex- 
hibited for sale the various articles peculiar to 
the place from w^hich it .takes its name. There 
may be seen sewing machines in operation, silk 
weaving, braid making, glass blowing, wood and 
ivory carving, &c., &c. In short, you can obtain 
within the walls of this hive of industry, articles 
fashioned after the style of almost every country 
on the globe. After the various courts follow the 
main galleries, model gallery and picture gallery. 
The main galleries are loaded with various arti- 
cles from Europe, Asia, Africa and America, 
among Avhich are rare and choice specimens of 
Indian arms, armor. Oriental garments, models 
of Indian Mosques and Pagodas, curious and 
quaint carving in wood and ivory. The model 
gallery contains models of bridges, houses, ves- 
sels and marine appliances, designed and execut- 
ed in Great Britain. In this department can be 
seen, of precise dimensions, an exact model of 
Shakespeare's house in Stratford-upon-Avon, 
and a model of the Britannia tubular bridge 



156 O'er the Atlantic. 

erected across the Menai strait in North Wales. 
And in the picture gallery is exhibited upwards 
of one thousand pictures in oil, water colors and 
crayon, the productions of the most eminent 
artists of the age, both of the English, French, 
Belgium, Dutch German and other schools, some 
of which visitors purchase daily, and their vacant 
places are occupied by others immediately, to ac- 
complish w^iich some twelve hundred pictures 
are constantly kept on hand. 

In the Transepts and Nave are some of the 
finest statuary that human eye ever rested upon, 
some of which are of marvellous size. 

In the Carriage department are carriages of el- 
egant workmanship, constructed of the very best 
materials, but in their construction about 
three times the amount of wood and iron is used 
tliat is used by carriage makers in this country, 
which gives them to the eye of an American res- 
ident a very clumsy and cumbersome appearance. 
I certainly saw no necessity for such waste of 
materia], for they have the most beautiful roads 
to travel over I ever saw. 

In the large basement of the palace is an 
American skating pond, i. e., a prepared floor 
whereon the parlor skates are freely used, an ex- 
cellent place to teach the young their preliminary 
lessons in skating before taking to the ice. There 
are also within the extent of the grounds a mag- 
nificent rosary, secondary island, geological is.- 
lands of extinct islands and animals. 



<9Vr the Atlantic. i57 

We must now bid adieu to London for the 
present, and take my readers to France, but will 
speak further of the great metropolis and its 
other si<^hts on our return from the continent. 



158 O'er the Atlantic, 



LETTER XV. 

FRANCE. 

France. — Having made preparations to leave 
London for a few weeks, one fine morning 
we started for the continent ; taking the train 
from London Bridge station, we were soon en 
route for Paris, and in a couple of hours were 
on board the steamer which was to take us across 
the channel from Ncav Haven to Dieppe. Such 
a steamer ! A little craft more fit for a tug-boat 
than to carry passengers,* a disgrace to a civ- 
ilized people. Not only is this remark applica- 
ble to England, but also to other European coun- 
tries. In this great country (i. e. America) the 
comfort of all classes is studied both on rail and 
on water ; but in Europe tlie poor man is sup- 
posed to have little flesh or blood ; at all events, 
if otherwise, it is estimated at much below par, 
and indeed, so far as expense is concerned, trav- 
eling is equally as expensive as in America. Then 

* In this and other respects I will say that Uncle Sam is 
far in advance of John Bull for accommodations both on 
board railway cars and steamers. 



O'er the Atlantic. i59 

why is it that the comfort of the people cannot be 
studied equally as well ? The answer is ^ s. d ! 
"The rank is but the guinea-stamp, 
The man is the gowd for a' that." 
Leaving New Haven the small craft steamed 
across the British channel at the rate of ten miles 
per hour, and in seven hours we were landed on 
the quay at Dieppe, whence we proceeded imme- 
diately to the railway station, there to take the 
cars for Paris. And as we have to return via. 
Dieppe, I will refrain from giving any account 
of the place until our return. So after par- 
taking of refreshments we took our seats in a su- 
perior carriage to those we traveled in while on 
the other side of the channel, and commenced 
the overland journey through ancient Norman- 
dy, of which I shall also speak hereafter, to the gay 
metropolis of France. Away we sped, travers- 
ing the banks of the Seine nearly the whole way, 
until we arrived in Paris, which we entered late 
at night, and were soon driven to the Hotel de 
Londres et Milan, in the Rue St. Ayacinthe,* a 
house recommended to us by an old friend whom 
I had the pleasure of meeting when in Wales, 
which, unfortunately for us, was crowded with 
sight seers to the Exhibition ; but the proprietor 
very politely informed us that if we would con- 
descend to occupy apartments for the night, 
which they had engaged for sleeping rooms 

* Robespierre met his tragic fate in a room in this build- 
ing. 



i6o O'er the Atlantic. 

apart from the hotel, that in the morning we 
should be accommodated with rooms in the ho- 
tel ; which proposition we, being fatigued, gladly 
accepted. 

Morning came and found us like many more 
in the world-renowned city of Paris, with but a 
mighty slim knowledge of the French language, 
about a dozen words being all the writer 
had at his command, and even those few of so 
very an imperfect pronunciation, tliat it was with 
greatest difficulty he could make Johnny Crapeau 
comprehend their meaning, a circumstance most 
harrassing and perplexing to a foreigner. 

Paris appeared to me to be all France, and the 
only place in the. whole Empire, probably, where 
rapid and A^ast improvements were being made. 
The piles of buildings which have been torn down 
to give place to others of more style and beauty, 
and to widen streets and thoroughfares, during 
the reign of the present Emperor, is astonishing, 
and the comparison between ancient and 
modern Paris to-dav is so o'reat that it is called 
the handsomest city in the world. It certainly 
has some fine places ; for instance, the Rue de 
Rivoli is an elegant street, comprised of stores, 
exhibiting the finest and most costly works of 
Parisian art and fashion. Directly opposite 
which is the elegant Palace of the-Tuilleries 
with its extensive gardens and public prome- 
nades. The Boulevards des Italiens and other 
public thoroughfares are also very fine, and af- 



O'er the Atlantie. i6i 

ford delightful "walks beneath the shade of nu- 
merous well planted trees, while the Champs Elys- 
ses is the most delightful place in the whole city. 
We had an opportunity of visiting this fashiona- 
ble drive and promenade during the " Fetes de 
Napoleon," a national holiday lilvC that of our 
fourth of Julv, upon which occasion it is illumi- 
nated at night with tens of thousands of gas 
lights shaded with variegated glass globes, form- 
ing, from the entrance to the gardens of the Tuil- 
leries, through the Place de la Concorde to the 
Arc de Triomphe, at the extreme end, a most 
magnificent and brilliant scene, such as is but 
seldom witnessed. I was walking along this 
charming place one day during the preparations 
which were being made for the Fetes, upon 
which occasion I was fortunate, for it was the 
only time I saw the Emperor during my stay in 
the city. My attention w^as first called to the 
fact of his presence by the sudden and rather 
tame remark of some person near me saying, 'ie 
Empereur ! le Empereur!" Then I saw the 
crowd run to the sidewalks ; of course I was 
glad of the opportunity thus afforded me to see 
the man who has occupied for years so promi- 
nent a position in the affairs of Europe, so fol- 
lowed the crowd. 

At a leisurely pace came along two open car- 
riages, each drawn by four beautiful and richly 
caparisoned horses, with postillions, i. e., drivers 
riding each near horse, attended by a small es- 



162 



O'er the Atlantic. 



cort. First came their Majesties the Emperor 
and Empress, accompanied by their Majesties the 
King and Queen of Sweden, then on a visit at 
the Tuilleries. In the other carriage rode foiir 
gentlemen, whose names were unknown ; proba- 
bly members of their suite. I was astonished 
that there was no excitement, such as cheering, 
&c. ; but no, there was scarcely any notice taken 
of the cortege except by foreigners, which caused 
me to think that Louis was anything but popu- 
lar among his people. One tiling is certain, he 
is not popular with himself, for he looked hag- 
gard, thin and careworn, and is a much smaller 
man than I had frequently imagined him to be. 
Looking at the various portraits of him, he ap- 
pears to be a man of much above tlie medium 
height, but it is not so ; I scarcely think that he 
is any taller than "King John's man" (5 ft. 6 in.). 
I will now speak of the — 

"'■Pahiis de V Exposition Unlversalle,'' or, in plain 
English, the " International Exhibition," which 
is erected on the groiuids of the Champs de Mars^ 
whereon the first Emperor assembled his army 
on liis return from Elba, when they took the 
oath of allegiance to him. It is constructed of 
iron, lighted from the roof, is of oval form and 
covers about 40 acres of ground ; its outward 
appearance is not so much to be admired, but the 
interior is admirably arranged in the most sys- 
tematic and simple manner, and for the display 
of goods it has no equal. The grounds that sur- 



O^er the Atlantic. 163 

round it are ttistefully and beautifully laid out, 
and trees and flowers of ever}^ description adorn 
its wide avenues and walks. 

The Park contains buildings, representing the 
style of architecture of various nations, as also 
model theatres, forms, dairies, hothouses, facto- 
ries, mills, &c., with the various machinery in mo- 
tion. To give an account of all that can be seen 
within or without, or even one hundredth part of 
it, would be perfectly futile ; suffice it to say that 
tliere o-athered too^ether is the handiwork of the 
industry of the inhabitants of almost every na- 
tion on the surface of the globe. 

The exhibition comprises three portions; viz., 
that called the Park, the Garden and the Billan- 
court, the latter being an island on the wSeine, 
situated a few hundred vards from the Champs 
de Mars, and set apart for agricultural exhibi- 
tions and field experiments of machines, etc. 
Apropos of this department, let me say that 
there American inventions stood A, No. i, Mc- 
Cormick's implements, especially his reaping 
and mowing machines, taking the first prize. 

The interior of the great oval palace contains 
wares and merchandise of domestic and foreign 
manufacture, and we passed through the va- 
rious circles, commencing from the left of the 
grand vestibule and returning to the point 
of departure ; and then commenced another cir- 
cle, then another and another, until we traversed 
five or six, which occupied us three days. While 



164 o'er the Atlantic. 

traversing those wide circles or avenues 
of trade, for goods were not only on exliibition 
but for sale also, we passed by the respective di- 
visions appropriated to and occupied by the sev- 
eral countries who had forwarded goods for exhi- 
bition. First carne France and its colonies, Al- 
geria, Netherlands, Belgium, Prussia, German 
States, Austria, Switzerland, Spain, Portugal, 
Greece, Denmark, Sweden and Norway, Russia, 
Italy, Roman States, Danubian Principalities, 
Turkey, Egypt, China, Siam, Japan, Persia, Af- 
rica, Australasia, United States, Mexico, Brazil, 
Republics of Central and Southern America, 
and lastly Great Britain and Ireland, each coun- 
try exhibiting such articles as were manufactured 
Avithin their respective territories, some of which 
were of the most elaborate workmanship, and a 
wonder in artistic skill. France exhibited, in 
addition to her manufactures, very many rare 
and costly relics, some of which dated back long 
before the Christian era, a most interesting col- 
lection. 

The space allotted to the United States, I must 
(^onfess, was but small, but it appears to make 
up for it they were given an additional place 
witliin the grounds, apart from the main build- 
ing, which Ave A'isited, and Avhere AA^as on exhibi- 
tion the finest and best finished locomotive, 
named the America, of all that Avere Avithin the 
palace Avails, and I Avas informed, hoAV correctly- 
I cannot say, that the Emperor had, or Avas then 
negotiating its purchase. 



O'er the Atlantic. 165 

The outside of the outer circle was occupied 
by Cafes (sak)ons), a phice appropriated to the 
various countries represented in the palace, 
wherein could be obtained refreshments peculiar 
to the country whose flag hung over the en- 
trance, eating and drinking according to your 
taste or whim, and l)e waited upon by persons 
attired in the respective costumes of the country 
they represented, and speaking the language ; 
there all could be accommodated according to 
their tastes, for instance. We of course visited 
the " U. S. Cafe," wliere the most fastidious Yan- 
kee could be accommodated with tlie choicest 
morsels and most delightful drinks that he ever 
partook of even in a first class Broadway saloon, 
and our German American citizens could enlarge 
their dimensions by partaking, as is their wont, 
of any quantity of bologna sausages, rye bread, 
,s\veitzer-case and bock beer. 

1 will now ask my readers to leave 
the Exposition, and accompany me to the 

Hotel des Invalides. — This immense charita- 
ble institution was commenced by Touis 
XIV, in 167 1, and restored by Napoleons I and 
III. It gives shelter to about 3,000 maimed, old 
and invalided soldiers, and under its dome now 
rests the remains of the once great Napoleon, 
which were removed from St. Helena in 1840. 
Tlie crypt of circular form is open, the sarcopha- 
gus is placed in the centre, and the walls are em- 
bellished with statuary of colossal proportions, 
representing the Emperor's twelve principal vie- 



1 66 , O'er the Atlaiitie. 

tories. A marble staircase leads to the entrance 
of this crypt, and on the right and left are maus- 
oleums of Duroc and Bertrand, two of his faith- 
ful generals and sharers of his captivity. The 
tomb is upwards of four yards long, two feet 
wide, about five feet high, and stands on a green 
granite base. In a black marble vault, facing 
the entrance door, stands a white marble statue 
of the deceased Emperor, attired in coronation 
robes. 

Before leaving this building I was shown, 
among other things, the plans in bas-relief of 
the principal strongholds of France, which were 
really worth seeing; for large cities and forts, 
Avith their extensive grounds in and around 
them, in miniature, was almost like visiting the 
originals in person. Such plans cannot fail to 
give the engineer a very accurate knowledge of 
tlie strength and position of such places during 
a seige. 

In the library are about 20,000 volumes of 
choice military works, and while in there I was 
shown the bullet which killed Turenne, in 1675, 
two torches used by him in his campaign, a sil- 
ver model of his equestrian statue, and a plan in 
relief of the " Hotel des Invalides," leaving 
which we emerged into the open air and viewed 
some cannon, which are arranged right and left 
of the entrance, comprised of Algerian, Chinese 
and French manufacture. The latter were those 
that formerly belonged to the ''Armv of Egypt." 
More anon. 



O'er the Atlantic. 167 



LETTER XVI. 

FRANCE, CONTINUED, 

From the " Hotel des Invalides" we proceeded 
in the charge of a guide and interpreter, a very 
intelligent person, to visit other places of inter- 
est and note. First visiting the " Halles Cen- 
tral" (market place), Commercial Courts, where 
all matters connected with commerce are judi- 
cially settled, and Saint Chapelle, or the Holy 
Chapel, a most magnificent place built in 1245 
by St. Louis, to contain the crown of thorns, the 
cross, spear, and other so-called relics of our 
Saviour. It is divided into two chapels, upper 
and lower, the upper one being much superior 
and more extravagantly decorated than the low- 
er one; the walls and ceilings are profusely cov- 
ered with gilt, and the carving in wood is very 
elegant. The lower chapel is, notwithstanding 
the line of comparison that I have drawn, a very 
beautiful place also. Leaving here we proceed- 
ed to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a stupen- 
dous piece of masonry of the most ancient order, 
with its scores of statues representing scriptural 
subjects, adorning the main entrance, and other 



1 68 (9Vr the Atlantic. 

embellishments in stone of the rarest kind. It 
Avas in the course of completion for three hun- 
dred 3'ears, is three hundred and ninety feet long, 
one hundred and forty feet wide, one hundred 
and two feet high, and of the Gothic style. A 
ver\^ handsome tomb in memory (jf Archbishop 
Affre is erected within its walls. The Bishop 
was killed in 1848 when endeavoring to stay the 
insurrection of that period. 

In the church of St. Etienne du Mont, arc two 
beautiful spiral staircases of very elegant work- 
manship, and it contains the tomb of St. Gene- 
vieve, the patron Saint of Paris. The Pantheon 
is the scene of the conflict between the people 
and ihe troops, in 1848, and the massive cohuiins 
of the ■ main entrance, as also parts of the inte- 
rior, bear evidence on their face, of the severe 
conflict that raged between them. Tlie people 
raised barricades, took possession of the church 
and fought from within its gates with that des- 
peration only known to a people fully bent upon 
not being conquered but in death. For a long 
time they held possession of the place until it 
was riddled with shot, when, finding further re- 
sistance useless, they commenced the work of 
death among themselves, until not one was left 
to render an account of their doings upon earth. 
So when the military entered the church, it was 
only to find nothing but the bleeding corpses of 
a brave and determined people, who would rather 
die than give in to despotic power. In this 
church lie the remains of \''oltaire and Rousseau. 



O'er the Atlantic. 169 

The Hotel de Cluiiy was built in the fifteenth 
century by the Abbots of Cluny, and has quite 
an ancient appearance. Mary of England, wid- 
ow of Louis XII, and James of ^Scotland resided 
tliere. It is now used as a museum for the re- 
ception of antiquities, with which it is liberally 
supplied. Old paintings in oil and tapestry, 
adorn the walls, and in the various chambers can 
be seen choice and rare articles manufactured 
many centuries ago. The Palais du Luxembourg 
Avas built in 16 15 by Catharine de Medicis for a res- 
idence, and is now the French Senate or House 
of Peers. The State apartments are richlv dec- 
orated and contain magnificent paintings of the 
wars of Napoleon. The throne room, wherein 
is the ancient throne and chair of the first Em- 
peror, is a most elegant room, and the Senate 
Chamber, which represents very much the same 
style as the Senate Chamber in Washington, is 
also elegantly fitted and furnished. 

The Corps Legislatif, wherein assembles the 
Congress of France, is similarly fitted to that of 
the Luxembourg, and also contains some verv 
fine paintings, especially a full length portrait of 
the present Emperor, which shows him to be a 
much larger man than he really is. 

The Church of the Madeline, by some persons 
thought to be the finest building in Paris, is sur- 
rounded with fifty-two Corinthian pillars. It 
was commenced during the reign of the first 
Napoleon, and completed in 1842, and the inte- 



1 70 ' O'er the Atlantic. 

rior is very fine indeed. We visited several other 
places of worship, all of which had within their 
walls more or less persons paying their devotions 
at the shrine of their favorite saint, for which we 
(among others) were expected to pay, gratuities 
being demanded, and alms for various purposes 
by hosts of beggars, of all ages, so that the sight- 
seeker has to have his hand in his purse con- 
tinually. The cry is give ! give ! ! This is the 
great evil over all Europe. The traveler and 
stranger is bored incessantly and in various man- 
ners and ways for the filthy lucre, until he is 
quite at a loss to know when he has done paying. 
An abominable system, and one that should be 
decidedly abolished. 

The Place Vendome is a large square, in the 
centre of which stands a high column erected by 
Napoleon I, to commemorate his German cam- 
paign. It is formed of 1,200 captured cannon, 
and is surmounted by a statue of himself attired 
in state robes. 

The Palais du Louvre, a very extensive build- 
ing, was commenced by Francis I, and enlarged 
by succeeding sovereigns. It is now used as a 
museum, containing hundreds, nay thousands, of 
rare and beautiful pictures by the most eminent 
masters; historical relics of various ages and a 
fine library also adorns the interior. 

The magnificent Palais of the Tuilleries ad- 
joins the Palais du Louvre. It was founded by 
Catharine de Medicis, and is at present the city 



O'er the Atlantic. 17 1 

residence of Louis Napoleon and his Empress 
Eugenie. The Emperor has caused to be done 
much to enlarge and beautify it, but owing to 
the court being at home we could not gain ad- 
mittance into the interior. 

To enumerate and speak of all the public 
buildings of Paris that we visited, for it is a citv 
of palaces, is almost next to "impossible; so I 
shall have to reluctantly abandon even *the 
thought, and speak of other points of interest, 
commencing with the — 

Place de la Concorde. — Tliis very magnificent 
place was originally intended to receive a statue 
of Louis XV, and was called after him ; but at 
the Revolution, so fatal to the blood royal and 
nobility of France, this statue was replaced by 
an image of liberty, and subsequently by the 
murderous guillotine, on which perished Louis 
XVI, Marie Antoinette, the Duke of Orleans 
and a multitude of others of the best blood of 
France. Around the place are eight very fine 
marble statues, which represent the largest cities 
of France ; and in the centre stands an obelisk, 
brought from Egypt, on either side of which are 
two large fountains, the whole presenting, espe- 
cially at night, with its very numerous gas lights, 
a most magnificent scene. The Obelisk of Lux- 
or, from the ruins of Thebes, in Upper Egypt, 
occupies a prominent position here, and has for 
the last 40 years. It is covered with hiero- 
glyphics, and is over 4,000 years old ; which, to- 



72 G*er the Atlantic. 



gether with the colossal statuary, representing 
the principal cities of France, and the magnifi- 
cent fountains, form a grand spectacle. 

The Bridges across the Seine^ of which there 
are many, are also well worthy the attention of 
the stranger. They are beautiful works of art, 
some of which are highly embellished with stat- 
uary, placed on the pillars supporting the arches, 
and facing up and down the river. I would like 
much to be able to give a more liberal and 
graphic account of Paris, but to enable me to do 
so, it would require of me a residence of many 
months. 

Near to this spot is the Palais de I'Elysee, 
where Napoleon signed his last abdication, and 
wherein the Duke of Wellington, Murat,* the 
Emperor of Russia, Madame de Pompadour, 
and Napoleon III, when President, have resided 
at various times. 

The Bois de Bolougne, once the favorite hunt- 
ing ground of the Kings of France, is now a 
favorite place of resort with the gay and fashion- 
able Parisians. It is very beautifully laid out 
with lakes, cascades, walks and drives. 

One evening we attended a concert in the gar- 
dens of the Champs Ely sees, upon which occa- 
sion we had the pleasure of hearing the cele- 
brated band of the " French Guides " play a se- 
lection of the most popular airs. The members 
of this band are all picked men and thoroughly 
skilled in their profession, and the spectacle to 



O'er the Atlantic. 173 

be witnessed in this favorite and highly respecta- 
ble place of entertainment, of an evening, is mag- 
nificent. Not far off from there is on exliibition, 
and which I saw, the immense and very fine paint- 
ing of tlie battle of Solferino. It occupies the 
whole of a large circular building, with a mound 
in the centre, whereon the visitors stand to view the 
great picture, and over which are scattered brok- 
en muskets, swords, bayonets, knapsacks, shakos, 
dismantled cannon, &c., thus almost depicting to 
the human eye the actual field of battle. On 
the canvass are faithful likenesses of Napoleon 
III and his generals, as also those of the Austri- 
ans, and a truthful representation of the scenery, 
in which the battle took place. This immense 
painting is very interesting, and well worth seeing. 
Now a few words about Paris generally. Not- 
withstanding the great seige of improvement it 
has undergone and is undergoing daily, Paris 
does not class with many other cities in Europe 
and America. Exteriorly the buildings -have an 
elegant and majestic appearance, but there is a 
lack of those sanitary measures, regulations and 
improvements, which now so generally adorn 
the interior of buildings in other countries ; and 
as to water, it is truly abominable. So with all 
its numerous palaces, gilded iron work, spark- 
ling in the sun, and fashionable places of resort, 
with the gayety and splendor of daily life, it 
lacks much of being a model city, and in the opin- 
ion of intelligent Frenchmen, indeed our guide 



1 74 O'er the Atlantic 

told me as much, that ere long, beautiful as it is 
in many otiier respects, much of it will have to 
undergo sooner or later the terrible scenes of 
i848.'^' Apropos of this: "The Frencli 
people," said he, "will never be satisfied until 
monarchial rule is absolutely abolished 
and a republic formed. Napoleon is only 
Emperor of France — he never was and never 
wiH be Emperor of the French ! and wlien he is 
crowned Emperor of either I shall be prime min- 
ister, which is not possible. lie is a military des- 
]yv)t, who wislies to palm off on the country an 
heir to the French throne, whose paternity the 
great mass of the civilian Frencli have their 
serious doubts about ; but, if he lives long enough, 
he will see his mistake, and if he don't live to see 
it, the time Avill then have arrived for Frenchmen 
to act." Sucli were nearly the words wherein he 
expressed himself, confidentially, of course, /. ^., 
that I should not speak of it while in France. 
He upon another occasion, remarked to me that 
the Emperor dreaded all this, and that in conse- 
quence lie seldom retired to his bed, for anxiety 
of mind interfered with sleep. Says the guide, 
"That man don't sleep twelve hours in one 
week." 

I will now ask my readers to accompany us to 
Versailles, an account of which I will give them 
in my next. 

* Tliere is a very turbulent spirit manifested against the 
Emperor among the people generall)^ which sooner or later 
will, I am led to think, prove fatal to Napoleonic rule. 



O'er the Atlantic. 175 



LETTER XVII. 

FRANCE, CONTINUED. 

Palace of Versailles. — This very magnificent 
and extensive Palace, now converted into an His- 
torical Museum, was commenced by Louis XIII, 
and enlarged and beautified by Louis XIV, who 
made it his principal and favorite residence ; 
surrounded with the pomp of Court, beautiful 
women and brilliant nobles, it was here he gave 
fetes and entertainments on so magnificent a 
scale as to astonish all the Courts of Europe. 
Extravagant sums of money were expended by 
this monarch on the Palace of Versailles. To 
such an extent did he carry out his extravagance, 
that he drained the coffers of France and placed 
the country in a state of bankruptcy, the conse- 
quence of which was a revolution. After this 
monarch came Louis XV and Louis XV^I, both 
of whom occupied the Palace and lived at an 
equally extravagant rate, until the patience of the 
people again became exhausted, when tliey rose 
in their miglit. Says a certain writer : " On the 
6th of October, 1789, tlie people of Paris, exas- 



176 O'er the Atlantic. 

})emted by the scenes whicli had taken place 
during the banquet given to the Gjuirds in the 
opera house of the Palace, marched on Versailles. 
Marie Antoinette appeared on tlie balcony of the 
first floor, accompanied by Madame and the 
Dauphin, There was a shout immediately of 
'no children!' The Queen, undaunted by the 
danger which this shout so clearly foretold, 
advanced alone and unattended. Lafayette pres- 
ently appeared, and, placing himself next to her, 
appeased the rage of the mob. The next shout 
was for the King, who showed himself at once 
and replied to the cry of the enraged mob, ' The 
King must come to Paris ! ' that he would accede 
to their Avishes, confiding all he most dearly 
prized to the care of his most good and faithful 
subjects." — The royal family left the Chateau at 
one o'clock in the afternoon of that day, soon to 
be deprived of life at the hands of an infuriated 
and down-trodden people. Since that day this 
extensive Palace has been uninhabited. 

Immediately on entering wdthin the massive 
gilded gates, whereon are emblazoned the royal 
arms of France, the stranger is struck with aston- 
ishment at what he sees ; groups of immense 
size statuary occupy prominent positions in the 
Palace yard, the appearance of which rivets him 
to the spot — makes him spell-bound — and chal- 
lenges his admiration for its grandeur. We soon 
found ourselves within the Palace walls, buffetted 
about by the immense throng of visitors who, 



O'er the Atlantic. 177 

like ourselves, had come to see the sights of Ver- 
sailles. It was with much difficulty we elbowed 
our way from one apartment to another. On the 
walls are hung the finest paintings in the world, 
of various sizes, and by a host of the most emi- 
nent artists. Those of historical events con- 
nected with tlie first Empire, particularly inter- 
ested me; and we traversed, I was informed, as 
many rooms if placed in a direct line as would 
cover two and a half miles of ground — in which 
are exhibited seven, miles of pictures — and by the 
time we had got througli, rest assured, we were 
ver}^ tired — so much so that we were unable to 
go tlu-ough the whole of the extensive flower 
gardens and walks. 

The gardens are divided into squares formed 
by alleys ; immense sheets of water and elegant 
fountains, statues, pieces of architecture, shrub- 
bery and flowers of almost every description 
adorn the grounds. Well may this delightful 
place attract the thousands of visitors it does 
daily, for it is what may be termed literally, a Far- 
adise on earth. The Orangery contains the finest 
collection of orange trees in the world, one of 
which I was informed is4oo years old. It was plant- 
ed by a Princess fo Navarre, who gave it to Anne, 
of Britanny, and ultimately became the property 
of Francis I. Three very large fountains throw 
up immense sheets of water, in the midst of 
which Tritons and Syrens frolic. These foun- 
tains are named Diana, Dragon and Neptune. 



178 O'er the Atlantic. 

The lalter is one of the grandest conceptions of 
liydraulic art, and the effect of the water is inde- 
scribable. The mists of foam and cohimns of 
vapor illumined by the rays of the sun resemble 
ever changing and fleeting rainbows. There are 
numerous other fountains placed in other parts 
of the ground, all of which are beautiful 
works of art. 

The Trjanuons, which are small buildings or 
palaces, erected on a small scale by Louis XIV 
and Louis XV within the s^rounds, and derive 
their name from the village which once occupied 
the site of tlie Palace, are also very magnificent 
residences. It Avas to these palaces the King 
(Louis XIV) often retired when tired and weary 
of the pomp and splendor of Court, of which he 
bv"came satiated, living and conducting himself 
among Ins family upon the closest intimacy, and 
abrogating almost entirely his lofty position in 
this world. It was there lie enjoyed solitude and 
quiet, and led, I may say, a purely domesticated 
life. The Triannons were, nevertheless, luxuri- 
ously furnished and profusely decorated in the 
highest style of art. Louis XV also spent much 
of his time there in the society of liis numerous 
mistresses. The building called the Petit Trian- 
non was built by him, behind the Grand Trian- 
•non, in order to give a residence to Madame 
DuBarry, one of his newly acquired favorites. 

In the historic halls of those buildings are 
carriages used during the reigns of Louis XVI, 



&er the Atlantic. 179 

Napoleon I and Charles X. That of the time of 
Napoleon is massive and magnificent. There 
are also sleighs and chaises of great value, and a 
little carriage that once belonged to the Duke of 
Bordeaux. There are to be seen other relics in 
the shape of valuable harness and saddlery, and 
uniforms worn at the various courts are also on 
exhibition. Among the carriages is the corona- 
tion carriage of the first Emperor, and that of 
Charles X, which cost, with the harness, about 
four hundred thousand francs or $80,000, all of 
which have been visited by Emperors, Kings and 
Princes of foreign powers, and gazed at by high, 
low, rich and poor, with wonder and admiration. 

From Versailles we went to St. Cloud, the 
favorite residence of the present Emperor, which 
is called the " Summer Palace." This truly ele- 
gant and picturesque residence is surrounded by 
a magnificent park of many broad acres, beauti- 
fully and tastefully laid out, with fountains, 
statuary in Italian marble, and shrubbery and 
flowers of the rarest and choicest kind. 

We also passed through Sevres, noted for the 
manufacture of the celebrated porcelain so well 
known among the admirers of fine arts ; and, 
while in the neighborhood, we had the pleasure 
of witnessing the ascent of a verv large balloon, 
the car of which contained two persons. There 
being no wind, it ascended almost perpendicu- 
larly, making but little headway through space. 

Having hired a carriage for the day. we pro- 



i8o O'er the Atlantic. 

ceeded at a brisk pace, and were soon once more 
within the walls of gay Paris, and comfortably 
seated in our hotel, which was very acceptable 
after spending a whole day visiting sights far off, 
a great portion of w^hich time we were exposed 
to the extreme heat of the sun. Yes, such a day 
as we occasionally experience in America in the 
month of July ; " that's so." 

It was our intention to proceed to Strasbourg, 
which is situated on the Rhine, to see the cele- 
brated clock in the old Cathedral — a wonderful 
piece of mechanism, and of great age — but time 
would not permit ; so we had to rest satisfied 
with not proceeding any further south. 



O'er the Atlantic. i8i 



LETTER XVIII. 

FRANCE, CONTINUED. 

We will now bid gay and fashionable Paris 
a final adieu, and proceed through Normandy on 
our return to England, and as we pass along the 
banks of the Seine, we have a fine view of the 
surrounding country. How different it does ap- 
pear to the United Kingdom. The one (Nor- 
mandy) with its varied colored little patches of 
land resembling an American bed-quilt, with 
here and there a dingy, squalid little town or 
village, showing no marks of improvement since 
the days of the celebrated Dukes, who many 
centuries ago wielded so much power and influ- 
ence on both sides of the channel ; and the other, 
w4th its broad acres nicely fenced around with 
the well trimmed black thorn and other hedges, 
and dotted over with hundreds of little towns and 
villages of various colored brick, improving and 
keeping pace with the times, as art and science 
progress. Well may it be said that " Paris is 
France," for there is but little improvement else- 



1 83 O'er the Atlantle. 

where. And yet, Johnny Crapean, seemingly con- 
tented with \\\syar{f of bread a,nd bottle of Vin Or- 
dinaire^"-' cannot but be aware of the vast strides 
made by other nations, aside from beautifying and 
adorning their capitals ! — But ere long the eye of 
the traveler ceases to dwell upon those monotonous 
little patches of land, for in the distance can be 
seen high chimnies, and as he draws nearer, the 
spires of churches, large buildings and shipping, 
appear in view, indicating that he is nearing a city 
of more tlian ordinary size and importance. — 
Along we went at a rapid pace, with sundry 
screeches from the iron horse as it passed through 
and by certain stations, which its aristocratic na- 
ture simply recognized with a screech and a grunt 
it ran furiously by, and ere long we were in the 
ancient city of 

Rouen. — This is the capital of Normandy, and 
and is even termed the " Manchester of France," 
for it abounds with cotton factories,which produce 
the finest manufactured fabrics of the kind in the 
world, and which bring much higher prices than 
those manufactured in the Manchester of Eng- 
land, and other places in Great Britain. 

Immediately after our arrival at the hotel kept 
by an obliging Englishman, Avho liad linked his 

* Both remarkably cheap and of good qualit}'. Wine is 
generally used among the people as a substitute for tea and 
coffee. (Red wine or claret.) The loaves aae made] nar- 
row and long. 



O'er the Atlantic^ 183 

fate with an equally obliging French woman, we 
proceeded to see the sights of ancient Rouen. 
Taking a guide with us, who spoke very good 
English, we visited first the very fine old cathe- 
dral, with its curious iron spire, a portion of 
which has yet to be elevated. In this truly mag- 
nificent edifice rest the remains of the famous 
Rollo, first duke of Normandy, Richard Coeur 
de Lion, and his brother Henry, and many others 
of distinguished and ancient celebrity. It is a 
marvellous building, and has very many fine 
sculptured monuments, which adorn the interior, 
and the front is adorned with two towers, one of 
which is named the Butter Tower, owing to its 
having been built with the proceeds of the sale 
of permissions to eat butter during Lent. 

Within those walls is a relic which England 
for some time endeavored to obtain, but could 
not, although the emperor sanctioned its removal, 
the people opposed it in all their might. This 
relic is that of the limestone figure of Richard 
Coeur de Lion, discovered in the cathedral choir 
in 1838, and, about the same time, we were in- 
formed, his heart was also found, and is now 
jealously guarded in the Museum of Antiquities. 
This venerable building dates back to A. D. 260. 

The church of St. Ouen is also a magnificent 
building, of great antiquity, and is said to be 
one of the finest buildings in the world,' it is of 
gothic architecture, and is lighted by 128 win- 
dows, and contains several chapels, beautifully 



184 O'er the Atlmitic. 

and tastefully fitted up. There are many other 
churches of varied interest, and much frequented 
by the traveler and tourist. But the greatest 
point of interest, /. c, the most interesting, is the 
Place de la Liicelle in the square of whicli 
stands the monument of the unfortunate Joan of 
Arc, or Maid of Orleans, who was burned on 
this spot at the stake in 1431, and the old chapel, 
or at least a portion of it, stands near by, wherein 
she, in her last moments, called upon God to 
give her strength to go through, with fortitude 
and courage, the terrible ordeal without shudder- 
ing. Near by is also the Hotel du Bourgther- 
oulde, so well known to antiquarians. It was 
built in the fifteenth century. A stone tablet 
gives a brief history of the place, and enume- 
rates the names of the distinguished persons, 
who have sojourned within its walls from time 
to time, the first of whom was Francis I, A. D. 
1540, and the last Madame, afterwards Duchesse, 
de Montpensier, 1640, just 100 years after Francis 
I first occupied it. And on the outer walls is 
rudely carved the meeting of Francis I and 
Henry VHI, of England, on the field of the cloth 
of gold. Those ancient buildings are located in 
the oldest part of the city, where the streets are 
so narrow that the overhanging tops and roofs 
ot the old houses very near form an arching 
above your head. 

The Palace de Justice is an exceedingly inter- 
esting place. Our guide introduced us within 



O'er the Atlantic. 185 

its walls, walking upon tip toes, for tlic criminal 
court was in session, and one of the leading 
counsel for the prisoner, was addressing the jury 
in behalf of the unfortunate individual in the 
person of a young woman, who, it was alleged, 
had murdered her illegitimate child ; hence, \n^ 
had to pass through with a noiseless step. 
' We observed, as we w^ent along, the far-famed 
ancient ceiling, carved in oak, appearing as fresh 
las ever, and surpassing anything of the kind I 
had ever seen, so elaborately carved is it. Pass- 
jing out of this room we entered other apart- 
1 ments, bearing unmistakable marks of old age, 
■one of w^hich is used by the Counsellors at Law, 
the public, and those interested in court matters, 
! as a promenading and discussing room, and for 
, arranging and settling matters out of Court. 
After visiting several other places of note, and 
viewing with wondering admiration the various 
old gates and classic buildings with which the 
old city abounds, we took a carriage, and with 
our guide drove to visit the new and handsome 
church of Notre Dame Le Boscre, on St. Catha- 
rine's Hill. From Rouen to this place, and back 
over a different road to that we w^ent by is a most 
beautiful drive, and the view from the hill of the 
country round, including the river Seine and the 
city, is the most magnificent, and should by all 
means be seen by strangers visiting Rouen. 

The church is a splendid structure of modern 
and gothic architecture combined, and is deco- 



1 86 O'er the Atlantic. 

ra^ed in ca style wherein the cost must have been 
a secondary consideration; the whole of it being 
finished in elaborate gilt carved work. Indeed, 
it has more the appearance of an opera house 
than a place of worship, so profuse are the deco- 
rations. We will now^ have to leave the old cap- 
ital of Normandy in all its grandeur and mag- 
nificence, and take the cars for — 

Dieppe — another of the ancient towns of old 
Normandy, a place of no mean pretensions, for 
it has a population of probably twenty thousand 
inhabitants, and a castle and citadel commanding 
the entrance of the harbor. Very fine bathing is 
to be had in the neighborhood ; and the town, 
during the summer months, is frequented by vis- 
itors from all parts of Europe and America, to 
accommodate whom some very fine hotels are 
erected on the heights overlooking its beautiful 
beach and placid w^ater. The peculiar manufac- 
tures of the place are in ivory, such as little 
images chiefly connected with the Catholic faith? 
specimens of which are to be seen in the windows 
of the shops for sale. 

On our arrival here we were put to considera- 
ble trouble, owing to the steamer in w^aiting to 
convey us across the channel being overcrowd- 
ed with passengers that I deemed it advisable to 
remain over until the next steamer sailed on the 
following day, but scarcely had we partaken of 
supper and made preparation to retire for the 
night, I was informed that the agents of 



I 



O'er the Atlantic. 187 



i the line had ordered an extra steamer tu proceed 
in a few liours after the sailing of the other. 
So having secured our baggage once more and 
paid our bill, we took leave of Monsle Host^ of the 
hotel, and were soon on board the steamer, 
which I found equally as crowded as its prede- 
cessor, but rather than return to the hotel I 
quickly determined to proceed and run all risk 
in common with our fellow passengers. 

Early morning saw us steam out of the harbor? 
bowing ungracefully to a " short and troubled sea," 
caused by what is termed among sea-faring men 
a " spanking breeze," but although not more tlian 
enough, it came from the wrong direction., for it 
Avas " dead-on-end."' 

This was one of the most disagreeable sea 
voyages I ever experienced — the vessel small, 
badly constructed, and over-crowded with pas- 
sengers, chiefly excursionists returning from 
Paris, all of whom were cjuickly in the arms of 
Neptune, and paying sickly tributes to his majesty 
of the briny deep, who now and again would 
throw considerable of his briny element all over 
the deck, causing the lubbers, as he would term 
them, to look more dead than alive, which, 
coupled with its being quite cold, made many a 
poor votary to pleasure to curse his fate and wish 
himself once more in hold Hingland I Among 
the w^eak stomachs which so generally prevailed 
above and below decks was a good sprinkling of 
women and children, whose sufferings were 



1 88 (9V/' the Atlantic. 

intense ; indeed, it is almost impossible for me 
to describe the amount of suffering, for in the 
little cabin overcome by heat and sickness, laid 
the poor women and children two deep, and their 
stalwart companions on deck, literally soaked 
with salt water, too sick and helpless to render 
them any assistance. Such is but a feeble de- 
scription of the suffering on board the little 
cockle snell of a boat, which, in my opinion, was 
constructed more for the convenience of the 
proprietors than their passengers. Oh, yes ! find 
me an English railway or steamboat company 
who cater for the comfort of the public, and I 
will find the north pole. I know no other, 
remedy to bring them to a realization of the 
truth than by the government confiscating and 
consigning to the flames two-thirds of their vile 
railway cars and steamboats. — At last, after a 
delay of an hour and a half waiting for tide off 
the harbor of New Haven, we were safely landed 
on the quay, and a more miserable and forlorn set 
of creatures seldom or ever assembled together.* 
As soon as our baggage was duly examined by the 
custom house officers, we took our seats in the 
cars, and, after two hours' ride, arrived, tired and 
weary, at the London bridge station ; and here 
ends our trip to France. 

*The writer suffered more in going to and from Dieppe 
than he did the whole of the long sea voyage, indeed, it 
was the only time he experienced any sensation of sea- 
sickness. 



O'er the Atlantie. 189 



LETTER XIX. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

London Again. — After resting a day in our 
hotel, we once more took to the street, and were 
soon whirling along at a fast rate, cosily seated 
in a hansom, to see some more of the sights of 
London. But a few words about the ''hansom" 
ere I commence to give an account of the place 
we visited, which is nothing more than a one- 
horse vehicle upon two wheels, for the accommo- 
dation of two persons, driven by a man who sits 
behind, perched up as thougli he were there to 
counter balance the weight of the horse, for the 
shafts raise to the level with the back of the 
animal, and have a very awkward appearance. 
Yet these vehicles are easy of ingress and egress, 
and combine comfort with speed, for they are 
licensed to travel faster than any other of the 
cabs in the metropolis. 

Well, after turning a great many corners we 
were soon driving along Cheapside, then to the 
left, and away we went through St. Paul's 
Churchyard, the great Cathedral occupying 



190 O'er the Atlantic. 

almost the whole of the square, causing the 
shops (stores) to look dingy and gloomy without 
and within. Then onward, down Ludgate Hill, 
through Temple Bar, which was having its dingy 
old face washed by the City Fathers, along the 
Strand, past Somerset House, the Charing Cross 
Hotel, and we were in Trafalgar Square. Away 
w^e went down Parliament street, past the Admir- 
alty and Horse Guards, and in a few minutes 
more we were in sight of the great 

Houses of Parliament. — Those buildings are 
said to be unsurpassed by any other of the kind 
in the known world*. The exterior is adorned 
with a multitude of towers of various sizes, vary- 
ing from the great clock tower down, and the 
elaborate workmanship of the whole baffles any 
description I can give. The Houses of Lords 
and Commons are elegant rooms in every re- 
spect, and the whole of the Chambers are fur- 
nished in massive grand style.^ — Near by is 
Westminister Abbey, a magnificent old building, 
which has stood the test of centuries, and the 
interior of which is embellished with the finest 
sculptured tombs of kings, queens, princes and 
others that art could perfect. — Passing from here 
we found ourselves again in front of the Horse 

*It is a pity that so magnificent a structure should ever 
have been erected on the low bank of a sluggish, mudd}* 
river, (the Thames.) They are worthy a far more elevated 
position, which would add much to their grandeur and 
beauty. 



O'er the Atlantic. 191 

Guards, admiring the sentry, who sat on his coal 
black steed with a coat like velvet, draped in 
hemlet and cuirass, as immovable as a statue, 
resembling more a figure in wax than a live 
being. The soldiers of the Horse Guards are 
all picked men, measuring none of them 
less than six feet out of their boots, and are 
generally in attendance upon the Queen's person 
when apppearing in public. — From here we 
wended our way to Trafalgar Square, and viewed 
the sight of Nelson's pillar or monument, with 
immense crouching lions on each angle of its 
wide base. I consider this place the finest square 
I have ever seen, not even excepting the Place 
de la Concorde, in Paris. We afterwards visited 
Somerset House, the National Gallery, Zoological 
Gardens, and other places in and around the 
great city, all of which were " big sights," and I 
regret that time won't permit me giving them 
but a passing remark. As to places of amuse- 
ment, or rather entertainment, I found Madame 
Tussaud's exhibition of wax figures the most 
entertaining, and very interesting also. It is all 
that it is represented to be. The life like figures, 
gorgeously attired, especially those of the 
crowned heads of Europe and foreign princes, 
are most magnificent. And the Napoleon rooms 
contain relics associated with the first empire 
that are highly interesting, which even include 
three of his carriages, one of which is that which 
he used and escaped from during that ever 



192 O'er the Atlantic. 

memorable battle which proved so disastrous to 
him, and sent him to die in exile — that of Water- 
loo. To me this was very interesting indeed. I 
opened the door, got in, and sat on the same 
cushion which the great little man had so often 
occupied when going forth to battle, causing 
monarchs to tremble at what would be the result. 
It is very strongly built, lined with dark blue 
cloth, fitted within with drawers, a writing desk, 
lamp, map, racks, &c., and under the coachman's 
seat is an iron bedstead, and various other things 
connected with camp life, all of which were 
found, as well as some very valuable jewelry, 
diamonds and clothing by the Prussians on the 
spot from where he effected his miraculous 
escape. 

Madame Tussaud has now been dead several 
years, but the business is still carried on by the 
sons in the old firm name, and near to the 
entrance in the main saloon stands a very faith- 
ful representation of the old lady in wax, exe- 
cuted by herself when living, and so near to life 
is tlie figure, snuft' box in hand, and slightly 
moving her head occasionally, as does also that of 
old Cobbett, sitting near by, that but few take 
them for what they are, a mere representation of 
wliat was once mortal. On either side of the 
entrance doors stands neatly attired life-like 
figures of Washington and Ben Franklin, the 
former dressed in plain black velvet with but 
few ornaments, and the latter in the very plain 



O'er the Atlantic. 193 

homespun brown cloth of tiie period, in which 

unassuming garb he figured so conspicuously 

amid the splendor and pomp of European Courts; 

and at the upper end of this saloon are figures 

of the late President Lincoln, President Johnson, 

and Generals Grant and McClellan, neither of 

I which did I consider good, for they were out of 

proportion, and lacked much to make them 

I what they should or ought to be. In my opinion 

I there were none in the building so badly exe- 

j cuted. Let us hope that the defects will ere long 

I be remedied, so that American visitors can look 

at them with pleasure and with a feeling of pride 

land admiration. 

I The Wellington Room, like the Napoleon 

,' room, but recently added to the collection, con- 

I tains the life-like figure of the Iron Duke, lying 

in state under the canopy, draped in a Field 

{ Marshal's uniform, and around the room are 

hung in glass cases, exact copies of the various 

) badges, &c., bestowed upon him at home and 

abroad, and also many relics once the property 

of the Duke when sojourning upon earth. There 

are also very many other articles connected with 

the history of the great man, in and around the 

room, all of which must be very interesting to 

the admirers of the man who figured so much 

during the hostile meetings between the troops 

,of Britain and those of France, and whicii 

proved so fatal to the first Emperor, his family 

J and followers. 

' H 



194 0\'r the Atlantic. 

In conclusion, before I take my leave of this 
truly beautiful and magnificent place of enter- 
tainment, I wish to remark that it appears far 
more beautiful at night, wlien the effect is most 
brilliant, the gayly dressed figures with orders 
and jewelry, dazzling the eye, and appearing 
grand in the extreme. 

Before leaving London we visited the Taber- 
nacle., at the Elephant and Castle, and had the 
pleasure of hearing the world-renowned Spur- 
geon address a congregation of not less than 
5,000 persons — indeed, I was informed that there 
were 7,000 present. 

Spurgeon is decidedlv a great man — a plain 
matter-of-fact man is he, whose soul-stirring 
eloquence is astonishing, and who preaches so 
that his congregation can understand the mean- 
ing of the text thoroughly ; hence, why he has 
so many admirers. His style of oratory is such 
that no person can for one moment cease to listen 
to his plain unassuming address, for he rivets 
the attention of the most sluggish. Upon this 
occasion, after reading portions of tlie Scriptures, 
which he expounded as he read them, he drew 
his text from Job 14, 14th verse : "All the days 
of my appointed time will I wait, till my change 
come." This subject lie handled in a masterly 
style for one hour, and in a clear, audible voice, 
apparently without any stress, and certainly 
Avithout being at a loss for a word during the 
whole time, but with much eloquence expounded 



O'er the Atlantic. 195 

the position of Job driven to desperation bv 
bodily pains and the exasperating remarks of 
his wife, a sore trial upon his patience, causing 
him to cr}^ " Oh, that Thou wouldst hide me in 
the grave." Mr. Spurgeon then called the 
attention of his hearers to the aspect of life 
which Job gives us, his estimates of our work, 
and to his view of the future, ending his dis- 
course on the blessedness of sudden death. 
Said he, " There is much to be envied in sudden 
death. I never could understand why it should 
be put in the Litany ' From sudden death, good 
Lord deliver us !' So long as we can die pre- 
pared, let the change come suddenly," &c., &c. 

In this immense house of worship there is no 
organ, nor any other musical instrument. The 
singing is purely congregational — and oh ! such 
singing ! Imagine 5,000 voices mingling in one 
song to the worship of Almighty God! The 
effect is grand — nay, sublime. And while he 
gave out the hymn, verse after verse, the falling 
of a three cent coin to the floor might be heard. 

Apart from his ability as a preacher, Mr. 
Spurgeon, I was informed, is doing an immense 
amount of good in various ways. " And there is 
not," said my informant, as we rode in a stage 
back to London bridge, " a man in all London 
who works harder than Spurgeon. He has 
nobly earned the proud position he now holds, 



196 0*er the Atlantic. 

and is deserving of all the aid and support we 
can give him." A great man truly is Spurgeon. 

I must now leave my readers for the present, 
and ask them to meet me in my next in the 
city of Manchester. Adieu. 



O'er the Atlantic, 197 



LETTER XX. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

Having devoted all the time we could spare to 
seeing London and its neighborhood, I had to 
forego the pleasure of visiting many })laces that 
would have been interesting to me and probably 
to my readers. So on the morning of the 27th 
of August we left the great metropolis, taking 
our departure from Euston Square Station, by 
the London & Northwestern Railway, the best 
laid road in all England, over which we traveled at 
the rate of upwards of sixty miles an hour. The 
first place we stopped at was Rugby, 84 miles 
from London, (celebrated now as Dickens' 
" Mugby Junction,") which distance was run in 
one hour and twenty minutes ! There we stopped 
only three minutes, affording me scarcely 
sufficient time to reach the refreshment rooms to 
snatch a sandwich and pay for it, for almost 
immediately was heard the guard's voice, " Take 
your seats, if you please," followed by the bang- 
ing and locking of carriage doors, and the 



198 O'er the Atlantic. 

appearance of the ticket inspector, with " Show 
your tickets, please," and a polite " thank you," 
then one, two, three, four, counting the number 
of passengers in each compartment, with the 
remark, " All right," time was called, and the 
shrill starting whistle of the guard was heard as 
t)ie signal for the immense train to proceed on 
its journey. Away we went past towns and vil- 
lages, through various stations, at a fearful rate, 
away past Stafford, celebrated for its potteries, 
and ere long we were in the elegant station at 
Crewe, where we had to change carriages, the 
through " Lightning Express" going on direct to 
Liverpool. — And now, before taking our seats in 
the other train, 1 will avail myself of tlie oppor- 
tunity to explain how the Lightning Express 
and Mail Trains on the L. & N. W. Road take in 
water for the locomotive, and how the mail bags 
are delivered and received, without stopping or 
even slacking speed. As regards supplying 
water: At various places on the road are laid in 
the centre of the track some two or three miles 
of iron gutters, through which a continual stream 
of water tlows. 'J1i(.)se gutters are about four- 
teen inches wide and eight inches deep, and as 
the tander attached to the engine passes over 
them, a suction pipe connects with the water, 
which, caused by the speed, fills the tank to over- 
flowing ere the engine passes over the length of 
the gutter. Thus there is no delay in stopping 
to take in water. And then as to the mail bags : 



O'er the Atlantic. 199 

On the outside of the mail carria-ge is a netting 
attached to an iron frame, which comes in con- 
tact with the mail bags hung on a post, fixed on 
the station platform, which, by the force of speed, 
causes a spring to give way, and Her Majesty's 
mail is safely within the netting, and soon in the 
hands of the guard in charge of the mail car- 
riage. The mails are delivered in a similar man- 
ner, although this to me was quite a new feature 
in railroad traveling. I was not astonished when 
the simplicity of both were explained to me, and 
was only surprised that both inventions were not 
in general use. Leaving Crewe, one of the 
great junctions of England, we proceeded on 
our way, but not at so fast a speed as that we 
traveled at from London, for we were then riding 
in what the Englishman terms a Parliamentary 
train^ which enabled us to have a more distinct 
view of the country and the various station 
houses on the road, which are substantially built 
of hewn stone and fine brick, ''^ surrounded with 
tastefully laid out flower gardens, and the beauti- 
ful trimmed tliorn hedges which serve as 
fences for hundreds of miles along the lines, 
together with the neatly sodded slopes in 
the deep cuts, on which thousands of tons 
of hay are mowed every season, gives the 
whole country a most beautiful and charming 

*Much of the brick used for building in England are well 
hardened, and are finished on one side with a gloss, render- 
ing it impervious to wet. 



2()o O'er the Atlantic. 

appearance. We were soon in Stockport, and 
traversing the line of railway elevated above 
houses and factories eight and nine stories high. \ 
On we went, turning a curve to the left at a 
steady speed, when scores of very high chimneys 
appeared in the distance, from which long lines 
of black smoke streamed forth, and mingled 
with the clouds in the heavens, and in a little 
while we were made aware of being in the great 
city of dry goods. 

Manchester. — This great cotton metropolis 
of the world, enveloped in smoke, is situated 
on the banks of the river Irwell, in the county 
of Lancaster. We stayed but a few days, 
during which time the " Liverpool & Manchester 
Agricultural vSociety" held their annual fair 
in the neighborhood, which, of course, we 
visited, and I was very much pleased with the 
exhibition. This fair is frequented by, and open 
for competition to the counties of York and 
Chester. Consequently the collection was very 
fine, comprising horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, dogs, 
poultry, farm produce, machinery, (principally 
connected with farming), wagons, carts, carriages, 
and a host of articles too numerous to mention, 
among which were some of American manufac- 
ture, such as washing machines, wringers, &c. 
The exhibition of horses was very fine, for there 
was the graceful thorough-bred Hunter, the 
Galloway, the Pony, and lastly the noble and 
majestic Draught Horse, so well known in 



O'er the Atlafitic. 201 

England, whose tread makes the earth tremble as 
he moves leisurely along. 

Manchester, until vithin a few years ago, 
was simply a town, but of considerable import- 
ance, when Her Majesty, the Oueen, visited it, and 
Knighted the Mayor, now Sir John Potter. When 
Salford (the see of the Bishop) was incorporated 
into Manchester, and the great cotton towm 
became a city, since which time the march of 
improvement has been very great ; and now 
several very fine public buildings adorn its 
streets and squares, among w^liich I may name 
the Court House (Town Hall), erected in 1866, a 
splendid building, unequalled for its conven- 
iences, A^entilation, and style of architecture by 
any other building of the kind in England. The 
Atheneum and Royal Institution, on INIosley 
street, are also very splendid buildings. In the 
latter is an exhibition of paintings well worth 
seeing. And the Royal Exchange, on ?*Iarket 
street, and St. Ann's Square, now in the course 
of erection, will be, it is said, far superior to any 
other building in the place, and not inferior to 
any in all England. It is constructed so as to 
form a square around it. The first floor is to be 
occupied as shops (stores), and the upper floor 
approached from the north and south side by 
very Avide flights of hew^n stone steps, is intended 
for a Court Room, Offices, Exchange Room, &:c. 
The principal shops will front on Market street, 
with good roomy basements to underlet for 



203 (9V/' the Atlantic, 

various business purposes, and Free Trade Hall, 
where such men as Cobden, Gibson, Bright, 
Osborne, and others of the great champions of 
the corn law and free trade have frequently held 
forth, advocating in more than eloquent language 
the rights of the working man, is a building of 
no mean pretensions. 

Manchester is also not without its monuments. 
Very fine statues of the Duke of Wellington and 
Sir Robert Peel occupy prominent positions in 
front of the Infirmary, and one of Dr. Dalton, 
and of James Watt, the celebrated engineer, 
occupying each a pedestal, forming the entrance 
to the Institution, and there is a very fine statue 
of the late Prince Consort, in Italian marble, 
under a canopy on Albert Square. 

The city is also blessed with some very fine 
public parks, of which it has three, viz. : Peel's 
Park, comprising forty acres, in which there is a 
very extensive Museum of Antiquities and Fine 
Arts, and an extensive Library, both of which 
are always open to the public gratis, and within 
the grounds are five statues, viz. : of the Queen, 
Prince Albert, Sir R. Peel, Richard Cobden and 
Mr. Brotherton, late M. P. for Salford. The 
other Parks are called the Queen's Park, and 
Phillip's Park, both of which are extensive, but 
have nothing to recommend them to the eye of 
the stranger, aside from their shady groves and 
quiet retreats, which are so very much courted 



o'er the Atlantic. 203 

on the Sabbath and holidays by the sons of toil 
resident in and around the city. 

Among the hotels, of which there are several 
very fine ones, one deserves special mention. I 
allude to the '' Trevaiyan," conducted on the 
Temperance plan, and is decidedly one the finest, 
as also one of the most convenient and elegant 
furnished house in the United Kingdom. It is 
admirably conducted, and is precisely what it is 
represented to be, " a first-class house," combining 
elegance, and comfort at moderate charges. The 
" Waterloo" is the only house which caters to the 
taste of Americans generally, and is provided 
with an elegant room for their reception, adorned 
wdth American engravings of various subjects, 
but is rather salty in its charges. 

Before leaving we were afforded an oj^portu- 
nity of visiting the new Cotton Factory of tlie 
Messrs. Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee & Co., which is 
one of the finest, most modern and complete in 
the place. On entering the first floor we could 
not hear ourselves speak with the noise of tlie 
machinery at work, and the humming din of 
scores of looms, busy at work under the manage- 
ment principally of females, weaving various 
patterns and qualities of cotton, worsted, and 
silk fabrics combined. We were politely shown 
through this extensive establishment, from bot- 
tom to top, which gave us some idea of the vari- 
ous stages through which the raw material had 



204 O'er the Atlantic. 

to go ere it was in a fit state to pass into the 
weaver's room.'^ 

It is astonishing to see the great number of 
foreigners from ahiiost every clime, who traverse 
the streets of busy Manchester ; among whom are , 
the , Turk, Arab, Greek, and the Mahomedan from 
the far off Indies, dressed in the peculiar costume 
of thei r country. As also the Frenchman, Spaniard, 
German and American, attired a la anglaise, all buy- 
ers, or rather resident agents, for the purchase of 
goods for the various houses they represent in 
their far-distant homes. And now let us leave 
busy and smoky Manchester, and in my next I 
shall give an account of our trip to the far-famed 
Windertnere lakes, andtlienceonby way of Carlisle 
into honnie Scofiajid. 



' *The proprietors of the Manchester Cotton Mills are 
very jealous of strangers visiting their factories, but Ave 
gained admission without any trouble through the influence 
of a friend, who said we were simply desirous of satisfying 
our curiosity by seeing the looms at work. 



O'er the Atlantic. 205 



LETTER XXI. 

ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 

On the road once more, propelled by the iron 
horse at the usual speed, we soon left Manchester 
far behind, passing through Bolton and Preston, 
with their numerous cotton factories, coal and 
iron works. On through Lancaster, and in a few 
hours the train arrived in Oxenholme Junction, 
where I had the extreme pleasure of meeting an 
old friend from Pittston, then on a visit to his 
aged father residing at Sedburgh, after an absence 
in America of 30 years (more or less). To meet 
so many thousand miles from our home Avas very 
pleasant, and right glad were we to see each 
other, but the pleasure was somewhat marred by 
him announcing the death of an old friend 
of ours at Wilkesbarre, Pa. Although unwell, 
he put himself to some trouble and expense in 
coming several miles to meet us, for I had been in 
correspondence with him prior to leaving London. 
But unfortunately we had but little time to spend 
in each other's company, for as soon as the bag- 
gage could be transferred from one train to the 



2o6 O'er the Atlantie. 

other, then in waiting, we had to bid each other a 
hasty adieu,* take our seats again, and proceed on 
our journey-by Kendall, and in a short time we 
arrived at 

Windermere. — On our arrival here, situated in 
the immediate neighborhood of the far-famed 
Windermere Lakes, we soon were cosily seated 
in the coffee-room of a very comfortable hotel, 
named after the place, where from the w^indows 
could be obtained an excellent view of tlie lakes 
in the distance. 

After a stay of a couple of days at this very 
fashionable place of resort, boating on the lake, 
&c., a portion of which time the rain fell in tor- 
rents, we concluded to leave and proceed on our 
journey north, being perfectly satisfied that there 
are lakes and scenery elsewhere as fine, if not 
superior, in many respects, to that Windermere 
can boast of, and to view which none of us need 
leave the American shores. For what a great 
contrast there is between the lakes and rivers of 
Britain and those of America ! The former are 
but ponds and ditches when compared to the 
vast lakes and rivers of the latter ; and as to 
scenery, truthfully, I have seen none, as yet, to 
equal our own beautiful Valley of the Wyoming^ 

*This was the only personal acquaintance from iiis home 
that the writer had the pleasure of meeting during his tour, 
although there were several in various parts of Europe at 
the time, and he, notwithstanding feeling very unwell at the 
time, traveled several miles under ttnfavorahh circumstances 
to obtain an interview. May his shadow never groiv less. 



O'er the Atlantic. 207 

and that of the Hudson River^ Starucca Valley^ and 
other places, daring autumn especially. Such 
are not seen in any other country that I have 
visited, but if the x\merican is an antiquarian or 
an admirer of green fields^ well-trimmed hedges, 
and pretty gardens, adorned with almost every 
variety of flowers, tastefully laid out, and beauti- 
ful roads, let him visit Britain, and his tastes will 
be gratified to the fullest extent. 

We continued our journey northward from 
Windermere, re-passing Kendall, and taking the 
train once more from Oxenholme Junction, we 
started, making the first stoppage at Penrith, and 
while there obtained from our carriage window 
an excellent view of the old castle, now a perfect 
ruin, standing in the immediate neighborhood of 
the railway station. On Ave went through a well- 
cultivated country, until we arrived in the mag- 
nificent station of Carlysle, something like that 
erected at Chester, and of. which I spoke in 
my account of North Wales. 

On our arrival here we were very much 
pleased to meet a lady companion du voyage 
from New York to Ireland, in the person of a 
Mrs. Stevens, who was staying with a relation at 
Penrith, but our conversation was of short dura- 
tion, for the baggage being quickly transferred 
to the train on the Waverly route (N. B. R. R.), 
a stentorian voice proclaimed the customary, 
" Take your seats, please," when suddenly the 
refreshment rooms were emptied of hungry 



2o8 O'er the Atlantic. 

travelers, with their lunch in hand, quickly 
followed by the banging of doors, and the " Show 
your tickets, please," then the guard's usual shrill 
whistle for the immense train of carriages to 
move on to cross " the border." Puff — puff — puft' 
— ending in one continual puffing — and ere we 
had finished partaking of our luncheon, pur- 
chased hurriedly at Carh'sle, we were fairly in 
the " land o' cakes" 

Scotland. — Rapidly traversing the banks of 
the noble Esk, which, I informed myself, 
abounded with very fine trout. On we went 
through Castleton, with its "hermitage water," 
St. Boswell, which put me in mind of New- 
burgh Abbey, still on through Newstead, and 
in a little while Ave were in Melrose, w^here 
we saw the royal standard still floating over the 
hotel which, but a few days prior to our arrival. 
Her Majesty, the Queen, had honored with her 
presence on her visit to Melrose Abbey, Avhen 
en route to her highland home at Balmoral. 

We saw the splendid old abbey wlierein rests 
the once lion heart of "the Bruce." Grand old 
ruin ! Honored thou art in having such a relic 
resting within thy ivy-clad walls ! Let it continue 
to shelter under thy wings, even when ages shall 
have made thy crumbling walls a mass of rub- 
bish, never to be forgotten until time ceases to be 
no more. 

Melrose Abbey is a similar ruin to that of 
" Tintern Abbey," of which I gave an account 



O'er the Ailantic. 209 

when in South Wales, but more profusely deco- 
rated. It was founded in 1 156 by David I, and 
restored in 1326 by the Bruce. Edward .II de- 
stroyed the original building, and the present 
building is that restored, which occupied 200 
years in completion. It belonged to the Cister- 
cian Monks. Sir Walter Scott, in his " Lay of 
the Last Minstrel," alludes to the east window in 
the following lines : 

" The moon on the east ariel shone 

Through slender shafts of shapely stone, 
By foliaged tracery combined ; 

Thou wouldst thought some fairy's hand 

Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
In many a'freakish knot had twined, 

Then framed a spell when the work was done, 

And changed the willow wreaths to stone." 

" On many parts of the ruins fruits, flowers and 
foliage are carved with the most artistic skill, 
and several of the pillars which support the roof 
are yet as entire as when William of Deloraine 
and the monk visited the wizard's grave." It 
must have been unrivalled in its day, "' and now 
the dust of the departed monks and the rude 
forefathers of the hamlet, with that of the inhab- 
itants of the village of Melrose of the present 
day, mingle together in the graveyard of the old 
ruin." 

Leaving Melrose, we steamed along the banks 
of the "lovely Tweed, soil hallowed by the 
eloquent poetry of Burns, and rendered glori- 
ous by the wonderful genius of Scott, a land 



2io O'er the Atlantic 

where prose and fiction, fact and sentiment, are 
so indissolubly linked together that it becomes 
almost an impossibility to separate one from the 
other." — On we went, leaving Abbottsford, the 
once princely residence of Sir Walter Scott, to 
our left, sorry we could not spare the time to 
visit it, and as we went further along we obtained 
excellent views of Borthwick and Creichton Cas- 
tles, the former a fine old baronial tower of the 
14th century. 'Twas there Mary, Queen of Scots^ 
passed, I may say, with Bothwell, her bitter 
honeymoon, till hunted down by her nobles^ 
Avhen she fled their vengeance dressed in male 
attire, but to no purpose, for she was afterwards 
taken prisoner, and taken back to Edinboro. 
where she was insulted in the streets, and after- 
wards removed to and confined in Lochleven 
Castle, wherefrom she effected her escape and 
fled into England, and threw herself upon the 
protection of Elizabeth, then Queen of England, 
who protected her by causing the headsman to 
deprive her of her head. Creichton Castle was 
founded by Sir William Creichton, Chancellor 
of Scotland, who was the guardian of James II. 
The ill-fated Mary gave various grand entertain- 
ments there, and magnificent as it was once, it is 
now a desolate, forlorn looking old ruin. We 
passed through Gallashiels, and occasionally 
passed large factories wherein the celebrated 
Scotch tweed is manufactured, and steaming 
along at a fast rate, passed Stow, Fountain 



O'er the Atlantic. 211 

Hall, Heriot, Falahill, Tyneheacl, Gorebridge, 
Dalahousie, Eskbank, Dalkeith, and soon after- 
wards came in sight of the Firth of Forth, arriv- 
ing in Edinburgh at 6 p. M.,and were soon seated 
in the luxurious coffee-room of the " Cockburn 
Hotel," conducted'like the "Trevelyan" at Man- 
chester, on the temperance plan, where our wants 
were promptly supplied, and our comfort duly 
cared for, by the very accommodating host and 
hostess. 

After supper we strolled up and down Princess 
street, where is erected the elegant monument in 
memory of Sir Walter Scott, the most beautiful 
structure I have ever seen ; and viewed as we 
walked leisurely along the numerous shop-win- 
dows, wherein was exhibited in profusion the 
very beautiful jewelry which Edinburgh is so 
justly celebrated for its manufacture. 

I must now bring this letter to a close, and in 
my next will give my readers a continuation of 
our visit to this very beautiful city, and capital of 
Scotland. An revoir ! 



-12 O'er the Atlantic. 



LETTER XXII. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 

EDiNBURGH.-\Ve found it very pleasant t. 
linger in and around this very beautiful city, th^ 
most delightful of ^//the cities we visited, and bi 
way of giving my readers an idea of what is tc 
be seen there, I will commence with its Ancient 
Castle. 

Edinburgh Castle is situated on a high rock, 
overlooking both the ancient and modern parts 
ot the city, and was the scene of many a fierce and 
deadly struggle between the English troops and 
those of the Pretender, as also, of some of the 
trials of the ill-fated Mary. We were shown her 
little apartment, when a prisoner there, (6 x 4 
It.) and looked down with a shudder, the steep 
rocks beneath the window, from which she 
lowered in a basket her babe, James VI, to be 
conveyed by her adherents to Stirling Castle, 
where it was baptised in her favorite faith.— Two 
portraits only adorn the walls of this little prison 



O'er the Atlantic. 213 

hamber, in which James VI first saw the light,* 
iz., that of the Queen and her consort Darnley, 
nd an old arm chair of the period, with the 
rown and letters M. R. rudely carved on the 
ack. The reception room adjoining the cham- 
er is much larger. It was in this room, during 
er captivity, she gave audience to those who had 
ccasion to visit her in her solitude and down- 
ard career. Leaving this part of the castle, we 
roceeded to view the Regalia of Scotland's 
lings and Queens, now kept and guarded within 
strong iron railing or cage, placed in a bomb- 
roof vault, erected within that part known as 
le " Old Palace." The whole are placed on a 
rimson covered stand or table, and consist of 
le Crown of Bruce's time, with additions made 
) it by James V, the sword of state presented 
y Pope Julius II, to James IV, and a sceptre 
lade for James V. There are also rare and 
)stly jewels bequeathed by the late Cardinal 
ork, who was the last of the Stewart race, to 
leorge IV, which consist of the St. George 
jllar of the Order of the Garter, presented bv 
fueen Elizabeth of England, to James VI, the 
adge of the Thistle, ornamented with diamonds, 
nd secretly containing a portrait of Anne of 
Denmark, and lastly the coronation ring of 
harles I. This costly finger ornament is set 

* James VI was born there while his royal mother was a 
isoner. 



214 O'er the Atlantic. 

Avitli beautiful rubies, and the ornament, St. 
George and the Dragon, attached to the collar oi 
the Order of the Garter, is on one side thickly 
set with diamonds of the purest water. The 
whole have a most brilliant appearance and are 
in a good state of preservation, notwithstanding! 
the many long years they were locked up fromj 
mortal view. Apropos of this circumstance, a{ 
few lines may not be uninteresting to some ofi 
my readers, whereby they may be made better 
acquainted with the past history of "Scotland's! 
Regalia," than I Avas, prior to my visiting the 
country ; but before doing so, I wish to allude to 
the royal robes, which, it is said, " were of purple 
velvet, lined with ermine, with a kirtle of the 
same materials and trimming, combining grace 
with elegance, which, with the crown, was worn 
by the King upon solemn occasions, but the lat- j 
ter on other occasions was placed before him on 
a cushion, and when laws w^ere passed in the j 
Scottish Parliament it Avas presented by the \ 
Chancellor to the King, who ratified them by' 
touching it with the sceptre, in token of royal 
assent. This ceremony, after the accession of 
James to tlie English crown, was performed by 
a Lord Higli Commissioner, invested for that, 
purpose with tlie delegated state of a viceroy." 
" During the troubles of Queen Mary's time " 
there was scandalous dilapidation made upon 
the crown jewels and other treasure in Scotland 
belonging to the sovereign. The Regalia, how- 



O'er the Atlantic. 215 

ever, escaped tire general plunder. They appear 
at this time to have been preserved in Sterling 
Castle, where James VI was crowned by Adam, 
Bishop of Orkney, July 29th, 1567, when,, as 
appears from the records of the Privy Council, 
the Bishop delivered into his hands the sword 
and sceptre, and put the crown royal upon his 
head, with all due reverence, ceremonies and 
circumstances used and accustomed." 

After the coronation of Charles II the events 
which followed were fraught with so much 
danger to the existence of royalty and its 
emblems, that it became necessary to take prompt 
measures for the preservation of the Regalia 
from a foreign enemy ; but as I cannot give in 
detail the circumstances attending the removal 
of the Regalia from place to place, it must suffice 
to say that from 165 1 until the union with 
England the Regalia were removed frequently 
from one place to another, and sometimes under 
the most tedious and difficult circumstances. 

On March 26th, 1707, they were again secluded 
from public view by being deposited in the great 
:hest, which was their usual receptacle, and 
secured by three strong locks, in the crown room 
ji the castle of Edinburgh. The chimneys and 
ivindows were well secured by massive iron bars, 
ind the entrance protected by two doors, one of 
3ak and the other of iron bars, with locks of 
yreat strength ; the keys of the chest and of the 
'oom were afterwards deposited somewhere, but 



2i6 O'er the Atlantie. 

never recovered.'^ Doubts seem to have been 
entertained by the Scotch people shortly after 
this of the actual whereabouts of the Reofalia, 
and the Jacobite party availed themselves of the 
circumstances to circulate a report that the 
English government had secretly caused these 
royal emblems to be transported to London, and 
a crown being exhibited in the Tower of London 
as that of Scotland's kings led to confirm the 
report so industriously circulated. Thus matters 
stood for upwards of a century, the people still 
in doubt of the existence of Scotland's royal 
emblems, when in 1817, the ''Prince Regent, 
considering that all political reasons for with- 
drawing from the people of Scotland the sight of 
the ancient symbols of her independence had 
long ceased to exist, was pleased to give direc- 
tions for removing the mystery, which had so 
long hung upon the existence of the Scottish 
Regalia." 

A warrant was accordingly issued and handed 
to the officers of State in Scotland, directing 
them to open the crown room and chest and 
report the state in which the Regalia should be 
found. 

The crown room was accordingly entered, and 
the lid of the great chest was forced open, when 
to the great joy of all present, lying at the bot- 

* Secluding the crown jewels from public view, was done 
to cause the loyal and patriotic Scots to banish from their 
memory their once independent government. 



O'er the At /antic/ 217 

torn of the old chest was the long lost Scottish 
Regalia, in a good state of preservation, notwith- 
standing their having laid there 110 years. The 
royal flag was immediately hoisted upon the 
castle, which was greeted by the loud shouts of 
a numerous crowd assembled outside the Avails, 
impatient to learn the result of the interesting 
search. The officers having reported the happy 
result to the Prince Regent, the custody of the 
Regalia was on the 8th of July, 181 8, committed 
to the officers of State, by a warrant under the 
great seal, with instructions, after making suit- 
able precautions for their safety, that they might 
be exhibited to the public, and in one year later 
the public were gratified with a sight of those 
venerable memorials. 

Afterwards we visited, before leaving the 
castle, " Queen Margaret's Chapel," the most 
ancient building in Edinburgh, measuring only 
16 1-2 feet by 10 1-2 feet within the nave, and I 
was informed that it was the smallest chapel in 
all Scotland. An immense cannon formed of 
staves and hoops of iron welded together, adorns 
a modern carriage near by, called " Mons Meg." 
On the carriage is a description of its history, 
but there is a doubt as to whether it was forged in 
Scotland or in Flanders — most probably the lat- 
ter. 

Leaving this ancient fortress, still garrisoned 
by troops, we wended our way to Holyrood 
Palace, situate at the foot of a lofty hill called 
I 



2i8 O'er the Atlantic. 

"Arthur's Seat." This building is constructed 
similar in form to Hampton Court, and dates 
back from the days of Queen Mary. We were 
soon wandering, i. e., I was in deep thought, 
through its ancient chambers, entering first the 
picture gallery, a long room, the walls of which 
were hung w^th portraits in sombre frames of a 
hundred kings of Scotland, from Ferguson the 
First to the end of the Stewart dynasty, being 
copies of originals and painted by De Witt in 
the 1 6th century. A striking peculiarity in the 
features of most of those monarchs is the length 
of the nose, which is unusually long, especially 
among those of tlie earlier date, which date back 
to 330 years B. C, when Fergus was king. The 
Parliament for some time was held in this room. 
We were next shown into Lord Darnley's room 
and the audience chamber, the walls of which are 
hung Avith ancient tapestry, and some dozen 
paintings of various monarchs. There are seve- 
ral other rooms of more or less note hung with 
tapestry, the subjects of which are dim with age, 
the most interesting of which are Queen Mary's 
reception room, supper room and bed room. In 
one of those is to be seen the bedstead and other 
furniture of Charles I, which he used when 
residing in the palace, also some embroidered 
chairs of the same date. In the reception room 
Mary and the great reformer Knox oftentimes 
met face to face, and discussed topics with refer- 
ence to her religious faith, the result of which 



O'er the Atlantic. 219 

proved so fatal to her interests.* It was the sup- 
per room wherein Secretary Rizzio received his 
mortal wounds, and whence he was dragged 
in the Queen's presence by the conspirators, 
stabbing him over and over again, until death 
relieved him of his agonies. The ceiling of 
her bed room is divided into panels, each panel 
bearing the arms and initials of Scottish sove- 
reigns in the centre, and is partially furnished 
with the bedstead, bedding and decayed hangings, 
used by the unfortunate Queen when occupying 
the apartment. It was from this room through a 
small private door that the upstart, Darnley, and 
his infamous associates went into the royal apart- 
ment to murder Rizzio. 

In my next I will give my readers an account 
of the Old Abbey or Chapel Royal adjoining the 
Palace, and the remainder of the sights we saw 
in the modern Athens. 



*The Reformer was the source of much anoyance to the 
Queen, and his persistent efforts to induce her to change 
her creed, made her the more firm in her belief. 



220 O'er tlu Atlantic. 



LETTER XXIII. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 

After seeing all that was of interest within the 
walls of Holyrood Palace, we wended our ivay 
to survey the ruins of all that is left of the old 
abbey or chapel royal, adjoining the palace, 
which was founded by King David. The mon- 
astery dates back to the twelfth century. Edward 
II done much damage to it, and Richard II set 
fire to it in 1385, when after undergoing repairs 
it suffered much in 1547, and at the outbreak of 
the reformation it was made a complete ruin. 

Within its ancient walls many of the Scotch 
monarchs were crowned and married, and in the 
eastern extremity, under the large window, 
kneeled Mary, Queen of Scots, when she gave 
her hand to the simpleton, Darnley, and near 
the spot, to the right, is the old vault, wherein it 
is said, rested at one time, the remains of King 
David II, as also that of otlier monarchs of 
Scotland; but alas! the ravages of war and 
time, have left no record of the" facts. Leaving 
the interior for a while, we went outside to view 



O'er the Atlantic, 221 

the exterior, and looking up over the doorway 
we saw the following inscription on a plain and 
unassuming stone, imbedded in the wail by 
Charles I, and I give it to my readers in precise 
form : 

" He shall build ane house 

For my name, and I will 

Stablish the Throne 

Of his Kingdom 

For ever." 

" Basilicam hance 
Return Carolus Rex 
Optimus Instauravit 
Anno Doni." 

Several fine monuments, especially those 
erected to the memory of Lord Rcay and -Vis- 
count Belhaven (the latter a very beautiful one), 
and tombstones are to be seen within the ruin, 
tlie inscriptions upon several of which arc quite 
legible, one showing the distinct date of 1455, 
and on one is the following very charactpristic 
inscription: 

" Heir 13'es ane honorable woman, 

Callit Margaret Erskin, Lady Alercus, 

And Dame XVII, July, 159." 

But the history of a great many of even tliose 
that can be deciphered, is buried with tliem, for 
there are no authentic records to be found ot 
who, or what they were in their time; and not- 
withstanding the ruinous state of tlie abbey, 
many of the present nobility of Scotland, Avhose 
ancestors sleep within those old walls, still keep 



2 22 O'er the Atlantic. 

adding to the number, as the members of the 
various generations depart this life, for they 
cherish a love and respect for tlieir ancient burial 
place. 

After taking a last lingering look at this old 
ruin, we took our leave, entered the carriage, 
Avhich had been in waiting, and were driven 
around tlie " Queen's drive," which afforded us 
beeautiful views of the Firth of Forth, Leith 
Harbor, and of Craig-millar Castle, wherein 
have resided James IV, V, and Oueen Mary. 
Passing around the mountain called '' Arthur's 
Seat," which towered high above us, crouching 
in lion form, for it resembles very nuich that 
majestic beast of the forest, we again entered 
the citv by another route, and proceeded to visit 
other phices, among which I may name tiie Royal 
Institution and the Antiquarian Museum, which 
contained a host of national relics, many of 
which were associated with the life and times of 
John Knox and others of his time, tlie National 
(rallery devoted to the exhibition of pictures, quite 
a fine collection, and Callow Hill, from where we 
obtained a beautiful view of the city, the Firth of 
Forth, Arthur's Seat and the Castle, and I will say 
that it was the finest view I have ever witnessed. 

On Callow Hill, resembling the ruins of Athens, 
is the unfinished National Monument, which has 
in its incomplete state, cost ;^i 2,000, and owes its 
present classic appearance, to a want of further 
funds for its completion. In the immediate 



O'cj- the Atlantic. 223 

neighborhood is the Edinburgh high school, a 
magnificent building, the Prison, a castellated 
building, constructed of hewn stone, and Burns' 
monument, which contains relics connected with 
his memor}'. 

We also saw John Knox's house, built in the 
fifteenth century, and occupied by him until 1572, 
when he died ; it contains implements of torture, 
and his favorite chair ; Regent Murray's house, 
Union cellar, and the old Parliament house ; but 
w^e could not remain in beautiful Edinburgh any 
longer, tempus fugit, so we had to leave for other 
scenes, but it was with regret, that I had to forego 
the further pleasure of strolling up and down 
gay Princess street, with its magnificent Scott 
monument, its less pretending one of Allan Ram- 
say (Gentle Shepherd), elegant buildings and 
beautiful walks, where Sir Walter Scott often- 
times loitered, chatting \\\t\\ one, then the other, 
and politely saluting each passer-by, as they 
respectfully recognized the soul-stirring poet of 
Abbottsford. 

Yes, I left Edinburgh with a pang of regret, 
for I liked it very much, and w^ould gladly reside 
there, but it could not be. — We must onward ; 
hark ! it is the old request ; " take your seats, 
please," the train is on the eve of starting, we 
hurry to our seats, the carriage door is closed and 
locked, and in a minute we are steaming out of 
the delightful city of the " Modern Athens" (a 
very appropriate name) and in a very short time 



2 24 O'er the Atlantic. 

it is far behind, and the train stops at some place, 
the name of which did not catch our ears, as the j 
guards called it out, so I inquired of an elderly 
gentleman who sat opposite me, who politely 
answered Linlithgoiv. Yes reader, we were in 
the place where the Stuarts figured so much in 
their day, and on our right was the ancient 
Palace, wherein the beautiful Mary Oueen of 
Scots first saw the light ; but while Ave were 
intently gazing upon the ancient structure, the 
train moved on, and I had to lean out the win- 
dow to gain one parting look at its ancient walls. 
Away we w^ent past Falkirk, where the great 
Wallace sustained defeat by Edward I on over 
a portion of the field of Bannockburn, which 
promptly called to my mind Burns' immortal 
song, " Scots wha hae wi Wallace bled," and ere 
I had quit thinking of the terrible conflict which 
once deluged the field with blood, we had 
arrived in Stirling, of which I will write in my 
next. 



O'er the Atlantic. 225 



t LETTER XXIV. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 

Stirling. — We remained there but sufilcient 
time to see the most interesting parts of it, so 
made our way immediately on our arrival for the 
old castle, Avhich we found resembled very much 
that of Edinburgh, especially in the position it 
occupies, and like it, has within its walls its 
chambers of horrors, for there is the room in 
wliich the brave Douglas (now called the 
'' Douglas room,") lost his life by the hands of 
assassins, who secreted themselves in the chamber 
adjoining, hence why it is named the " Secret 
Chamber," and underneath tlie window over the 
arched oratewav his lifeless bodv, it is said, was 
found in the morning. A lady is in charge ot 
those rooms, who expects a fee from all visitors 
ere she will volunteer to give a minute account 
of how and why the brave warrior became a 
victim to the assassin's knife, which account is 
no doubt vague and very incorrect.* 

^ This woman was most exacting, unpleasant and impoHte, 
and should be removed, to give room for one ol better 
manners. 
I'" 



2 26 O'er the Atlantic. 

One of the soldiers of the garrison, off duty, 
as we emerged from the Douglas room, very 
politely proffered his services to show us around 
the castle, which I gladly accepted, and our 
guide quickly led the way to the battlements, 
from where he pointed out various places of 
interest, commencing by drawing my attention 
to the Wallace monument, now in the course of 
erection on the Abbey Craig, to complete which 
Scotchmen and the descendants of Scotchmen in 
the United States and the Canadas have con- 
tributed, and are still contributing large sums of 
money ; but the structure, magnificent and stu- 
pendous as it is, deserves a better location than 
that it is erected on. Stirling, or the centre of 
the ever memorable field of Bannockburn would 
be, in my opinion, a far more desirable location. 
My attention was next called to the battle field of 
Stirling, and then to that of Bannockburn, both 
in right opposite directions, but Avithin a few 
miles of each other. Airthrey Castle, the seat of 
Lord Abercrombie, and that of Sir William 
Stirling Maxwell, of Kerr, Kenneth Abbey, in 
which lies interred the remains of James III, 
and over which has been lately erected at the 
expense of her present majesty, the Queen, an 
elegant tomb in memory of that long departed 
monarch. I was also shown the Tournament 
ground beneath the walls, and the stone wheron 
Mary Queen of Scots often sat to watch the 
national games of the period, by looking through 



O'er the Atlantic. 227 

an aperture in the wall, without being seen by 
those engaged in the games. Away in the dis- 
tance and visible to the naked eye is the fashion- 
able little town of the Bridge of Allan, a place 
of much resort by the wealthy, desirous of rus- 
ticating among mountains and green fields. 
Indeed, from the battlements the whole country 
around for many miles can be seen, and a more 
extensive and delightful view is but seldom wit- 
nessed. 

Leaving the polite and obliging' man at arms, 
the palm of whose hand I gently pressed with one 
of Her Majesty's silver coin, and in return 
received a most grateful smile and a polite salute 
for my generosity. We passed the guard of red 
coats on our way to the outside of the walls of 
tlie castle, and ere we had proceeded very far met 
an elderly man, who introduced himself as 
guide, and offered me his services in that 
capacity, wiiich I did not refuse nor accept. 
'' Silence gives consent," thought Mr. Guide, no 
doubt, for he commenced by calling my atten- 
tion to an old building in front of which we had 
halted, and the history of which he gave to me in 
broad Scotch, viz : 

"This old building, sir, was erected by the 
Regent, intending it for a palace for James VI., but 
after it was commenced and in process of construc- 
tion the site was objected to by the public, and per- 
haps by the King himself, and the Regent being 
of a proud and independent spirit, suddenly sus- 



2 2S O'er the Atlantic. ' ■ 

pended operations and left it in its unfinished 
state." The following characteristic inscription 
over the doorway speaks for itself : 

The moir I stand on open hicht 
My faults moir subject ar to sitght, 
I pray all luckers on this loging 
With gentle e' to gif thair juging. 

The cathedral, or grey friar church of Francis- 
can monks, in the rear of the Regent's old build- 
ing, was erected by James IV, 1494, and is 
really an old fashioned building. It was then 
undergoing repairs, so we did not see the interior, 
but went through a great portion of the burial 
ground adjoining, in which are some verv fine 
monuments, several of which have been erected 
at the sole expense of a Mr. William Drummond, 
a wealthy Scotch gentleman, resident in the 
neighborhood, to the memory of Scotch martyrs 
of the reformation, and others identified with it. 
One of those monuments attracted my particular 
attention. It was enclosed within a glass 
pavilion to protect it from the weather, in 
memory of Margaret Wilson and her sister 
Agnes, comprised of three life size figures repre- 
senting the two sisters and their guardian angel, 
the latter of the finest Italian marble, sculptured 
in Rome. This group is exceedingly beautiful, 
and cannot but challenge the admiration of all 
who see them. A liigh pyramid is also erected 
there by the same gentleman in memory of 
martyrs of the 17th century, and tliere are also 



O'er the Atlmitic. 229 

very many fine statues, among which are those 
of John Knox, Henderson, Melville and others, 
whose names are as household words to those 
acquainted with the history of Scotland. 

As I wandered over the ground in search of 
the oldest inscription among the old tombstones 
of which I found none prior to 1523, I noticed 
the following lines on a tombstone, formerly 
erected in memory of Alexander E. Mifflin in 
1809, and later to the memory of one of the 
same name, who had been chief constable of 
Stirlingshire, who died in 1867 : 

Our, life, is, but, a, winter, day, 

Some, only, breakfast, and, away, 

Others, to. Dinner, stay. 

And, are, well, fed. 

The, oldest, man, but, sups. 

And, goes, to, bed, 

Large, is, his, debt, 

That, lingers, out, the, day, 

He, that, goes, soonest. 

Has, the, least, to, pay. 
From " Ladies' Hill," an elevated spot over- 
looking the Tournament ground beneath the 
castle walls, can be obtained a beautiful view of 
the country. General Monck held this position 
when he took the castle, and on the old church 
tower can be plainly seen the marks of the shot 
fired on his forces from the battlements of the 
castle during the siege. 

Our guide, who I found was a well informed 
man, directed our steps from the old burial 



230 O'er the Atlantic. 

ground to Argyle Lodge, erected by Alexander, 
first Earl of Stirling, 1652, and told me it was 
occupied by the Duke of Argyle during the first 
rebellion. Within its walls Charles I was enter- 
tained when on a visit to Stirling. We were 
afterwards sliown Lord Darnley's residence, 
where James VI was nursed; Earl Bothwell's 
house, the murderer of Darnley, who afterwards 
aspired to the hand of his royal widow; and the 
old mint, wherein the first coin, called a bawbee, 
was coined, which had on one side an impression 
of the head of Queen Mary when a child, hence 
bawbee, meaning little or small, perhaps of the 
value of a farthing or an American half cent. 
—Proceeding on our way to the hotel our 
attention was drawn to an old building still 
inhabited, wherein at one time resided a certain 
Knight of the Scissors, whose sign of native 
stone still remains imbedded in the wall over the 
door, with the following inscription rudely 
inscribed thereon. I give an exact copy so far 
as form is concerned : 

Robert Spittal, 

Tailor [scissors] to King, 

James 4th Anno 

1530 

R. S. 

We left this ancient and pretty town by the 
North British Railway for Glasgow, by way of 
Balloch, on Lochlomand. For unfortunately we 
were unable to proceed to the Trossac/is, owing 



O'er the Atlantic. 231 

to the heavy rains which fell at the time, and 
which we were informed made it very unpleasant, 
a circumstance I was sorry for, as the scenery it 
is said, is grand in the extreme. 

On our arrival at Balloch Ave changed cars and 
proceeded on our journey through Dumbarton 
with its old castle on the rocks high above the 
Clyde, then along the banks of that shallow^ and 
muddy but busy river, until we arrived in the 
great city of Glasgow^ and immediately pro- 
ceeded, weary and tired, to the " Cobden Hotel," 
on Argyle street, which we found replete with 
everv comfort and convenience. 



232 O'er the Atlantic. 



.LETTER XXV. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 

Glasgow. — I found this city to be precisely as 
I was informed, a smoky, busy place, as much 
unlike Edinburgh as day is to night, with nothing 
of much interest to recommend it to the stranger 
and tourist; but notwithstanding I must give my 
readers a brief account of some of its public and 
commercial buildings, and what we saw during 
our stay. 

The Cathedral. — This large, and indeed T 
may say fine old structure, now very much 
restored, was dedicated, it is supposed, to St. 
Mungo or St. Kentyn, who is the reputed founder 
of the city. In 560 he established the bishopric 
of Glasgow. The cathedral was erected by 
John Achams, Bishop of Glasgow, in 11 13, some 
iiistorians say during the reign of David I. It is 
of Gothic architecture, and has in and around it 
tombstones wdiose inscriptions date back to A. 
D. 1500, at which time the people, we are 
informed, went to church carrying concealed 
weapons, even the clergymen went armed into 



O'er the Atlantic. 233 

the pulpit, which, it appears, was necessary, so as 
to protect themselves from the lawless and 
ferocious, which were those generally opposed 
to their doctrine. The cathedral is conducted 
strictly, /. ^., in the mode of worship, as the 
church of Scotland (Presbyterian), and like all 
the churches of that persuasion throughout 
Scotland, the services are simple and plain, with 
only congregational singing, there being no 
organ nor any musical instrument and professed 
choir tolerated, to cater to the refined taste of 
those wdio advocate professional harmony. 

The windows of the cathedral are remarkably 
fine, being works of art of the most costly and 
elaborate kind, in stained and painted glass, 
manufactured at Munich and otlier places cele- 
brated in the art, and are gifts to the church 
(in memoriam) from various members of the con- 
gregation, whose respective names, dates, &c., are 
inscribed thereon, and setting forth particulars 
connected with the deceased relatives of the 
donor, consequently the windows are not of the 
same pattern and design, but vary according to 
the taste and amount of money expended in the 
construction of those handsome and useful monu- 
ments. 

The Necropolis. — In the immediate neighbor- 
hood and to the rear of the cathedral is the 
necropolis or cemetery, elevated two hundred 
and fifty feet above the river Clyde, in which are 
erected some verv fine monuments, and the 



234 O'er the Atlantic. 

grounds are kept in the highest state of cleanli , 
ness, order and cultivation ; so much so, that it is! 
daily the resort of hundreds, who stroll through j 
its romantic walks, admiring the elegant and 
handsome monuments and vaults which adorn 
the place, among which stand conspicuous those 
in memory of John Knox, Dr. Black, Dr. Dick,, 
McGevin, Maj. Monteith and Alice Dunlop' 
Knox's monument was the first erected on the 
ground, long before it became a cemetery, 
erected there because of its high elevation, and 
from where a most magnificent view can be 
obtained of the surrounding country. 

Within the city is a fine public square wherein 
are some very fine monuments, among which* 
stands in the centre that erected to the memory I 
of Sir Walter Scott, and equestrian statues off 
the Queen and the Prince consort. j 

The Glasgow University is a fine old building j 
of the 17th century. The National Bank of] 
Scotland and the Royal Exchange are fine t 
modern buildings. In front of the latter is a I 
very fine Wellington monument commemorative \ 
of the battle of Waterloo, in the design of which i 
the artist has displayed much genius and good ; 
taste, in giving life like representations of the : 
soldier in civil and military life, graphically por- 
traying his career from agricultural pursuits to | 
the battle field. As a monumental work of art I '\ 
was much struck with its beauty and natural | 
appearance. j 






O'er the Atlantic. 235 



Glasgow has also some fine streets, of which 
I liked Argyle street the best, and several 
fine large hotels, which are, I was informed, 
second to none in the United Kingdom, and it 
is celebrated as being the great ^nporium of the 
world for steamship building. Its Clyde built 
steamers are well known and acknowledged to 
be the finest and fastest vessels afloat, and are 
now doing the leading trade in freight and pas- 
sengers between the United States and the 
various ports of Europe. It was on the Clyde 
such steamers as the Scotia, Persia., Cuba., Java and 
the Russia of the Cunard line, and others of the 
Inman and other lines were built, after lines and 
designs of celebrated Scotch ship builders, who 
are acknowledged to be all over the civilized 
world masters of their profession. Bidding 
adieu to Glasgow, w^e took rail and proceeded 
through Paisley, celebrated for its manufacture 
of shawls and spool cotton, on by Lochweinon, 
whereon is often played the celebrated games of 
curling between the north and south, still on by 
Kilberney, noticing as we went along several 
large iron furnaces, wherein is manufactured 
the celebrated iron known all over the world as 
'' Scotch Pig," obtaining a view of Ardrossan in 
the distance, the Firth of Clyde, a broad expanse 
of water, and Isle of Arran with its lofty hills 
away to our right, on we went until we arrived 
in Trova, from where we saw Kilmarnock some 
distance to our left, and soon after we were dulv 



-^^ O'er the Atlantie. 

set down in the quaint and quiet little town of 

Ayr, ,n the Land o' BuRNs.-which Burns 
informs us 

" Ne'er a town surpasses 
For honest men and bonnie lasses." 
As we entered the town, the first sisfht that 

fh"e"T "''p'^''' ""'^ """^^''^ ^"^ '-'"<=■"'''" were 

he Twa Bngs o' Ayr," which are so hallowed 

■n he stratns of Burns, whose hamorous and 

Th! V?; o^^'" """'^'^ "^^ '"^«°n' of both. 
Xhe Auld Brtg was built duri,.g the reign of 
Ale.xander III, t.49— 85, at the sole e.xpense of 
two maiden ladies named Lowe, who, it is said, 
devoted the whole of their fortune to the pur! 
pose. It ,s very narrow and steep at both ends, 
and was intended no doubt for a foot bridge and 
for beasts of burden. As we went alon<. I was 
suddenly brought to a stand still, as nty eves 
got riveted on the following lines, with two 
jovial looking figures painted on a sign board 

ssrs: ;'" '°°^ °' -^ ^^^'^^^'^'^■^ ■-'^'-^^ 

" The house wherein Tam O'Shanter 
and Souter Jolinny lield their meetings " 
Of course I could not but stay awhile beneath 
so classic a roof, so in we went and were verv 
pohteb^ shown up stairs by the good landlady, 
Mrs Glass, who cosily seated us in the Tarn 
O Shanter and Souter Johnny chairs, and were 
soon imbibing of Scotch dew out of the ever 
memorable cup (of which but verv little is left) 



O'er the Atlantic. 237 

used by those worthy and congenial spirits when 
they met in that very room in the days of Burns, 
based upon one of which meetings the poet con- 
trived to link together the humorous and inimit- 
able poetic tale of "Tarn O'Shanter," when 

." Ae market night . 

Tarn had got planted unco right, 
Fast by an ingle, bleezing finely 
Wi reaming Swats that drunk divinely 
^ And at his elbow, Souter Johnny ; 

I His ancient, trusty, drouthie crony.'\ 

P The bard seems to have truly entered into the 
spirit of the occasion, for he describes liow the 
fleeting hours under the merry influence of John 
Barleycorn passed swiftly away, viz : 

" The nicht drave on wi sangs and clatter, 
And ay the ale was growing better." 

Too often is it the case, that to partake of a 
little is to create a desire for more, which I infer 
was the case with those two worthies. 

Midnight came at last, when it is supposed the 
two '' cronies" prepared to separate for the night, 
Tam to straddle his " auld grey mare," to pro- 
ceed on his way home, upon a. remarkable dark 
and stormy night, of which the poet further 
says : 

" Night he tak's the road in, 

As ne'er poor sinner was abroad in." 

And his jovial companion the shoemaker, to 
wend his way homeward afoot, after the fashion of 
great circle sailing. ^ . __ 



238 O'er the Atlantic. 

In my next, after giving a general account of 
Ayr, I will conduct my readers o'er the ground 
which boozy Tarn traveled on that eventful 
night. 



I 



O'er the Atlantic. 239 



LETTER XXVI. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 

^Vyr. — I closed my last communication with 
Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnny's carousal at 
the old tavern named after the worthy pair, with 
a promise of giving my readers in my next a 
further account of this pretty little town ere T 
took tliem over the road on which Tam ganged 
hame on that eventful night. 

This beautiful and picturesque town is the 
county seat of Ayrshire, and is, with its immedi- 
ate surroundings, so much associated with the 
life and times of the farmer poet, that it has 
become known all over the civilized world as the 
" Land o' Burns." In the northern suburb is the 
harbor and quay, stretching towards the Firth of 
Clyde, and the outer position of the latter is 
occupied by a strong fort, so placed as to com- 
mand the entrance to the harbor. The present 
barracks, which occupy the site of a much older 
edifice, were erected by Oliver Cromwell, when 
at the head of the British Government. Passing 
up Sandgate street, a wide and rather handsome 



240 O'er the Atlantic. , 

thoroughfare, we were soon in front of the town 
buildings, the spire of w^hich is lofty and hand- 
some. I was informed that it is 235 feet high, and 
that the building contains an assembly room, 
together with several others used for various 
purposes. It was erected about forty years ago 
at an outlay of ^10,000, and it is certainly a I 
building which the good people of the town and ' 
countv of Ayr should be proud of. Nearly 
opposite this building is the Ayrshire Bank, and 
a little further on, Wellington Square. On this 
square are several well built houses and the 
county buildings, wherein are the court house, 
county assembly room, the office for the use of 
the various county officials, and of those con- 
nected with the court. Those buildings were 
erected in 1822, at a cost of ^30,000, which 
amount was defrayed by the county. But the 
most interesting feature in tlie adornment of 
this square is tliat of a statue of General Neill, 
who was killed as he led his troops into the 
citadel of Lucknow, in India, on the 25th of 
September, 1857. 

Leaving Wellington Square and turning to 
the right we had a view of an old antique tower, 
standing in a field a little distance off. It is 
called the ancient tower of St. John's Church, 
which was destroyed by Cromwell during the 
civil war. It was founded in the 12th century, 
and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. — 
'' Soon after the independence of Scotland had 



p O'er the Atlantic. 241 

been achieved, on the 24th of June, 13 14, by the 
victory at Bannockburn, it became desirable to 
fix the succession to the Scottish throne, for 
which purpose a Parliament was held in St. 
John's Church at Ayr, on Sunday, the 26th of 
April, 13 15, on which day, in the old church, was 
adopted the line of succession in the Bruce 
family, the whole assembly swearing fealty to 
King Robert the Bruce. 

Retracing our steps from this point towards 
Sandgate street, we obtained a good view of the 
Bay of Ayr, with Grennan Castle, built on a 
high rock, and the celebrated Ailsa Craig, in the 
distance. 

The Parish Church, or " x\uld Kirk o' Ayr," 
is built upon the site of an old Dominican mon- 
astery, founded in 1230, out of funds contributed 
by Oliver Cromwell by way of compensation for 
the destruction of St. John's Church. 

The Wallace Tower is a beautiful gothic 
structure, rising to the height of one hundred 
feet. The lower part is converted into a hand- 
some store or shop, above which are three stories, 
each a good sized room in itself, one of which is 
occupied as a mechanics' institute, and the 
others by the bellman of the tower. The build- 
ing contains a fine peal of bells and a handsome 
clock. In a niche on the front is a statue of the 
lamented and patriotic Wallace, to whose memory 
the tower was erected at a cost of about two 
.thousand pounds. 



242 O'er' the Atlantic. 

Leaving Ayr we proceeded some distance into 
the country, to see the neighborhood where 
Robert Burns spent .a great portion of his 
lifetime, and I was soon gladdened with a sight 
of the following, written on a sign board over 
the doorway of a thatched cottage (the outer 
walls of which were thickly white washed with 
wholesome lime)': 

" The house in which Burns was born." 

Soon we were within its portals, which we 
found densely crowded with visitors. Yes, 
reader, in that humble abode on the roadside, 
was ushered into the world on the 25th day of 
January, 1759, a peasant boy, whose fame has 
gone forth throughout the civilized world. And 
in a recess, wherein stands the old bedstead in 
the kitchen of the cottage, still occupied as a 
sleeping place, as he himself informs us, 

"A blast o' Janwar Avin 

Blew hansel in on Robin." 

By which he meant to convey to us that on a 
certain night soon after his birth a storm blew 
down the outer wall of the frail cottage, owing 
to which himself and his mother had to be 
removed to another part of the house while the 
damage was being repaired. 

In this old cottage, it is said, the poet — indeed 
his biographers say so — wrote the much admired 
poem, "The Cottar's Saturday Night," and now 
its great and growing celebrity, the popularity 
of the district, and the multiplicity of visitors, 



O'er the Atlantic. 243 

has done much to keep in repair and improve the 
old homestead for the owners. " The Corpora- 
tion of the Shoemakers of Ayr," to whom Burn's 
father sold the property before removing himself 
and family to Lochlee, caused a large hall to be 
built in the rear of the old premises, thus not 
only improving and rendering more valuable the 
property, but doing much to increase the accom- 
modation for visitors. A register book is kept 
by the proprietor of the house, who is licensed 
as an Inn-keeper, wlierin are registered the names 
of visitors, and which now contains the auto- 
graphs of thousands of almost every rank in 
life, who have journeyed from all parts of the 
world to view the spot wherein the immortal 
bard received his first inspiration. 

In the kitchen still remains the old oak dresser, 
on which was once placed the plain and unas- 
suming crockery ware used by the family for 
their frugal meals, and I was informed that the 
old grate is the sa?ne in every respect as when 
the cottage was occupied by the family. 

So interesting has the birth place of Robert 
Burns become, that there is scarcely a spot on 
the white washed wall but has the name of some 
votary written thereon in pencil, and cupboards, 
doors, door-frames, tables, chairs, benches, &c., 
have scarcely an inch of smooth surface but that 
have been served likewise with the knife. 

Had time permitted, I would have gladly spent 
a few days in the old cottage, for I love such 



244 O'er the Atlantic. 

places, and let my mind wander back to the 
days when the immortal bard lived and moved 
within its precincts. Good old days were those, 
wherein lived the man who done more to elevate 
man in the estimation of himself than did any 
other of the great poets of the past or present 
day. But I had to take not one, but many long 
lingering looks at the old spot, ere I could tear 
myself away. 

Near to the cottage, and on the road to the 
Burns monument, is Alloway Kirk, a roofless 
old building described by the poet in his poem 
of " Tam O'Shanter," as " Alloway 's Auld 
Haunted Kirk," wherein, he informs us, the 
witches held their high carnival on the night 
Tam rode his " auld grey mare" toward his 
home from Ayr, after his merry making with his 
friend Souter Johnny. Imagine Tam jogging 
along well filled with home brewed ale, with his 
" Dutch courage" at sticking point, wondering 
to himself what kind of a reception he would 
receive from his better-half, who was anxiously 
waiting his return, and what reasonable excuse 
he could make for his prolonged stay, when 
passing the old church to witness therein that 
which the poet describes in the following lines : 
" Sat auld Nick, in shape o' beast, 



A towsie tyke, black, grim and large. 
To gie them music was his charge ; 
He screw'd the pipes and gart them skirl, 
Till roof and rafters a' did dirl." — 



O'er the Atlantic. 245 

causing Tarn, perhaps, to plunge the rowels of 
his spurs (if he had any), deep into the flanks of 
the old mare, making her to bound forward with 
the speed of a race horse, with the witches close 
to her heels. 

The first thing that attracted my attention on 
entering into the grave-y^rd of the old church, 
was a head stone, erected by Burns in memory 
of his father, on which were inscribed the follow- 
ing affectionate lines, composed by the poet: 
"O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains, 

Draw near with pious reverence and attend ; 
Here lie the loving husband's dear remains, 

The tender father and the generous friend, 
The pitying heart that felt for human woe, 

The dauntless heart that feared no human pride, 
The friend of man, to vice alone a foe. 

For even his failings leaned to virtue's side," 

The interior of the old church is now used as 
a burial place, wherein rest the remains of 
several persons of note, and in the grave-yard 
are interred others of no less note, in vaults sur- 
rounded with iron railing. 

The old sexton in attendance showed us the 
grave of Souter Johnny, " Tam's ancient, trusty, 
drouthie crony." The following lines are 
inscribed on an unassuming head stone of native 

stone : 

" Erected by John Laughlan, 

To the memory of his Father, 

and 

David Laughlan, 

his Grandfather, 

late in Cunning Park. 



246 O'er the Atlantic, 

I was informed that the bard's remains lie at 
Dumfries,* over which an elegant monument is 
erected, which represents liim in the capacity of 
plowman. His mother's remains were interred 
at Bolton, East Lothian, and those of Tam 
O'Shanter lie beneath the green sod of Kirk 
Oswald. The following lines are copied from 
the poem by Mr. Roscoe, on the death of Scotia's 
Bard : 

Rear high thy bleak, majestic hills, 

Thy shelter'd valleys proudly spread. 
And, Scotia, pour thy thousand rills. 

And wave thy heaths with blossoms red ; 
But never more shall poet tread. 

Thy airy heights, thy woodland reign, 
. Since he the sweetest bard is dead 

That ever breathed the soothing strain. 

I must now bring this letter to a close, so adieu 
for the present. 

* Robert Burns, who was then in the British Revenue 
service as Exciseman, after a series ol afflictions, among 
which was that of rheumatism, departed this life at Dum- 
fries, on the 2ist of July, 1796, leaving a wife and four sons 
to mourn his early death. Two of his sons became othcers 
in the East India Company's service, and another was 
employed in the British Stamp Office, and the other, a lad 
of much promise, died of consumption. 



O'er the Atlantic. 247 



r 



LETTER XXVIT. 

SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 



From Alloway Kirk we proceeded along the 
road whicli our friend Tarn O'Shanter rode over 
when followed closely by the witches, in the 
hope that he coidd reach the bridge, now^ known 
as the " Aidd Brig o' Doon," which spans the 
river Doon, and leave the keystone of the arch 
in his rear, wdien their power over him, it was 
said, would cease. But alas ! he was doomed to 
disappointment, for just as he gained the bridge 
the enraged hags caught the auld grey mare by 
the tail, of which the bard further says : 

" The carlin clauglit her by the rump, 
An' left puir jSIaggie scarce a stump." 

On we went until we came in sight of a neat 
hotel, erected at the junction of the old and new 
road leading towards Maybole, named the " Burn's 
Hotel," in and around which some hundreds of 
persons were assembled, to visit the monument 
and Auld Brigo' Doon, some of which were accom- 



248 O'er the Atlantic. 

panied by bands of music, whose lively strains 
were principally those associated with the songs 
of Burns. 

The monument is erected on a site oyerlooking 
the old bridge, and is an open circular temple of 
classic beauty, having nine fluted Corinthian 
columns representing the muses. It is sixty feet 
high, on a base of rustic mason work twenty feet 
high, making it eighty feet from the ground. 
The interior is a circular room, lighted by a 
cupola of rich stained glass, which contains 
many relics connected with the history of the 
poet, among which is the Bible he presented to 
Highland Mary when they last met, and Jane 
Armour's gold finger rings, some copies of the 
best edition of his works, and other articles of 
interest linked with his memory, as also a well 
executed marble bust of him in his palmy days. 

Leaving that room we wandered over the 
grounds which surround the monument, and 
while doing so came upon a small cottage which 
we entered, and found it to contain the original 
life-size statues of Tam O'Shanter and Souter 
Johnny, the handiwork of a self-taught sculptor, 
a native of the neighborhood. I was informed 
that they were exhibited in all the principal 
cities and towns of Great Britain, where they 
were universally acknowledged as being perfect 
in every respect, and admired as a great work of 
art, thereby establishing for the artist a reputation 



O'er ike Atlantic. 249 

land gaining for himself a name, which added 
Imuch to his pecuniary resources. 

We left this delightful retreat and proceeded 
down the old road, and^oon were on the Auld 
Brig o' Doon, picturing in my imagination Tam 
O'Shanter's fight over it, "when more dead than 
alive," and the days when the immortal bard trod 
its surface. There I stood with my heart full, 
attentively listening to the beautiful song, " Ye 
Banks and Braes o' Bonnie Doon," rendered by 
jone of the visitors, accompanied by a chorus of 
a hundred A-oices from those standing on and 
around the bridge. More pure devotion I had 
but seldom witnessed. Every one seemed to be 
solely devoted to the day and occasion, as if there 
I to worship at the shrine of Burns. 
1 The bridge, of late, has been very much 
! restored by removing the thick ivy which for 
many years had clad its gray walls, and by 
repairing with cement the fast decaying stones, 
joints and crevices. But the stones which sur- 
mount the walls are the same, and still bear 
thousands of names and initials of names, rudely 
carved on their surface by some of those who 
have from time to time journeyed into the land 
of Burns, and among which soon figured another 
name, for I availed myself of the opportunity of 
adding mine to the list, choosing for the pur- 
pose the tenth or centre stone on the right hand 
side going towards Maybole. 

I found it very pleasant, nay, delightful, to 



L 



250 O'er the Atlantic. 

wander along the banks of the beautiful and 
placid little river, so much associated with the 
memory of the great bard, where he, upon many 
occasions, as he reclined on the green sward, or 
leisurely walked along, his soul wrapped in the 
muse, composed some of the poems which now 
are so much admired. Apropos of this, if I 
recollect right, it was there he composed or laid 
down the foundation of his truly laughable and 
amusing poem of Tam O'Shanter; and w^hile 
doing so his wife, who became anxious for his 
return home one day, owing to him remaining 
out on his walk longer than usual, went out to 
seek him, when she found him walking along the 
river bank, making the strangest gesticulations, 
and at times laughing and talking to himself 
which might have led her to suppose that he had 
become suddenly insane, and perhaps more fit for 
an inmate of a lunatic asylum, than a wanderer 
along a river bank. But the poet was then, it 
appears, overhead and ears in this inimitable poem, 
which was affording him mirth beyond his concep- 
tion, and causing him to laugh immoderately at liis 
ludicrous composition, of which the following 
are the most amusing parts, depicting Tarn's 
approaching the old haunted kirk :* 

" The lightnings flashed from pole to pole ; 
Near and more near the thunders roll ; 
When glimmering thro' the groaning trees, 

*The writer is not positive that the Bard composed 
" Tam O'Shanter," even in this neighborhood. 



O'er the Atlantic. 

Kirk AUoway seemed in a bleeze ; 

Tliro' ilka bore the beams were glancing, ; 

And loud resounded mirth and dancing. 

" Inspiring bold John Barleycorn ! 

What dangers thou canst make us scorn ! 

Wi' tippen}^ we fear nae evil ; 

Wi' asquabae we'll face the devil ! — 

The swat's sae ream'd in Tammie's noddle. 

Fair play, he car'd nae deils a boddle, 

But Maggie stood right sair astonish'd, 

Till, by the heel and hand admonish'd ; 

She ventur'd forward on the light, 

And wow ! Tam saw an unco sight ! 

Warlocks and witches in a dance, 

Nae cotillion brent new frae France, 

But hornpipes, jigs, strathspeys and reels, 

Put life and mettle in their heels.' 

" As Tammie glowr'd, amaz'd and curious. 

The mirth and lun grew fast and furious ; 

The piper loud and louder blew. 

The dancers quick and quicker flew ; 

They recl'd, they set, they cross'd, they cleekit 

Till ilka carlin swat and reekit. 

And coost her duddies to the wark 

And linket at it in her sark ! 

" But wither'd beldams, auld and droll, 
Rigwoodie hags, wad spean a foal, 
Lowping an' flinging on a cummock, 
I wonder didna turn thy stomach. 
And how Tam stood like one bewitch'd, 
And thought his very een enrich'd ;, 
Even Satan glower'd, and fidg'd fu' fain, 
And botched and blew wi might and main ; 
Till first ae caper, syne anither 
Tam tint his reason a' thegither, 



252 O'er the Atlantic, 

And roars out 'weel done, cutty-sark !' 
And in an instant all was dark ; 
And scarcely had he Maggie rallied, 
When out the hellish legion sallied. 

" As befes bizz out wi angry fyke, 

When plundering herds assail their byke ; 

As open pussie's mortal foes, 

When, pop ! she starts before their nose ; 

As eager runs the market crowd, 

When " catch the thief!" resounds aloud ; 

So Maggie runs, the witches follow, 

Wi' mony an eldritch screech and hollow. 

" Ah, Tam ! ah. Tarn ! thou'll get thy fairin' ! 
In hell they'll roast thee like a herrin' ! 
In vain thy Kate awaits thy comin', 
Kate soon will be a woefu woman ! 
Now do th)' speedy utmost, Meg, 
And coin the keystane of the Brig ; 
There at them then th)^ tail may toss. 
A running stream they darena cross !" 

*' Thus runs the legend poem througliout, dis- 
playing much variety of power in its brief com- 
position. It was written as an inducement to 
Grose to admit Alloway Kirk into his work on 
the antiquities of Scotland, so we are informed, 
by Allan Cunningham, in his- new life of the 
poet." And now having given a somewhat 
more lengthy account of the " Land o' Burns," 
past and present, than I intended to do, I nfust 
away from that very interesting spot and subject, 
and bid Scotland adieu, for the time has at length 
arrived to within a few days of our departure to 
re-cross once more the broad Atlantic: but 



O'er the Atlantic. 253 

a few words about Scotland and its people 
generally will, I trust, not be out of place in this 
letter; for I have on the termination of our tour 
in Ireland and Wales remarked briefly on the 
same subject. 

j Scotland is the northern part of Great Britain, 

and to a great extent is mountainous, its moun- 

t tain tops, covered with heather, and dotted with 

' hundreds of thousands of small sheep, is grand, 

majestic and picturesque in the extreme ; and 

I indeed, I may say that there are but few places or 

' parts of the united kingdom which can favorably 

compare with the rich and prolific soil that lies 

between Edinburgh, Sterling, and away towards 

' Balloch on Loch-lomond, land, I was creditably 

'1 informed, that cannot be excelled for its yield of 

the product of agriculture. 

To me, Scotia is certainly to be much admired 
for its vast wild mountain scenery, perfectly 
treeless, but when covered with the blooming 
heather as with a purple mantle, it lends it a 
charm but seldom if ever witnessed in any other 
country that I have visited. And when the 
approaching storms begin to gather, when the 
lowering clouds begin to nestle on the mountain 
tops, when the thousands of small sheep in conse- 
quence begin to gather into their respective folds, 
under the adroit management of their shepherds 
and sagacious dogs, and amid the roaring of the 
wind and the pitiless rain, the claps of thunder 
and much dreaded forked lightning, the scene 



254 O'er the Atlantic 

changes from that delightful charm to that 
of the most awfully grand ; but I am digressing 
in speaking of the country I must not forget it's 
people, who have so much to admire and be 
proud of. 

The Scotch, as I remarked in my letter on the 
termination of our tour thrbugh Wales, are of the 
Celtic or Keltic race. A people endowed with 
much courage, accustomed to great hardships, 
physically and otherwise, and are thrifty, indus- 
trious and frugal in their habits, patriotic and loyal, 
becoming intelligent and well informed through 
not being backward in study, availing themseh^s 
of the teachings of the excellent schools with 
which the country abounds, hence why we find 
among the Scots in this country such a well 
informed class of people. As a people, both at 
home and abroad, I have had frequent opportu- 
nities of judging their characteristics, and am 
pleased to remark that I have always found them 
honest, truthful and upright, warm in their friend- 
ship, and good law abiding citizens. 



\ 



O'er the Atlantic. 255 



LETTER XXVITI. 

ENGLAND AGAIN. 

Leaving Glasgow by a different route to that 
we arrived by, we on a fine morning in Septem- 
ber, took the 10 A. M. train on the Caledonia 
Railroad for 

Liverpool,— Of which place I shall give but a 
brief description, for its history is so well known 
in America, commercially and otherwise, from 
its almost every day communications with New 
York ; and setting aside its vast and magnifi- 
cent line of docks for the accommodation of 
shipping, I may say tliat there is nothing of 
much interest to be seen by the traveler. 

The Liverpool docks are very many, among 
which I may name a few, viz : The Victoria, 
Albert, Princess, Waterloo, Clarence, Brunswick, 
Bramley-moore, Nelson, Trafalgar, St. George 
and Salthouse, all of which are said to be the 
finest and most substantial in the world. They 
extend in a direct line for a distance of eight 
miles, and are constructed of massive hewn stone, 
enclosed within lofty walls, which have wnde 



25 6 O'er the Atlantic. 

entrance gates, and have accommodation within 
these walls for wares and merchandise in lofty I 
fire proof storehouses on a very extensive scale. " 

There are also very extensive and similarly 
constructed docks at Birkenhead, directly oppo- 
site Liverpool, a place rapidly increasing in size 
and population, which will no doubt in the 
course of time become a second Liverpool. 

Liverpool can also boast of a few very fine 
public buildings. First is the St. George's Hall, 
the most magnificent building of the whole; it 
resembles very much the Church of the Made- 
line, at Paris, having massive Corinthian columns 
and broad flights of stone steps around the 
entire building, and it is the only structure of 
note that has been erected in the town, on a site 
where it can be viewed to advantage. Next in 
style of architecture are the Exchange, General 
Post Office and Custom House, and lastly, the 
Sailors' Home, quite an imposing structure and 
a blessing to the often too good natured Tar, 
wherein he is perfectly safe from the land sharks 
w4io generally infest large sea ports. " A friend 
in need is a friend indeed," for such can be truly 
said of the Liverpool Sailors' Home, wherein the 
venturesome and frequently victimized mariner 
can find shelter and protection, with the free use 
of books and nautical instruments to occupy his 
leisure hours and improve his mind. 

I must now, for the time has at last arrived for us 
to bid the " Mother Country" a long farewell, and 



O'er the Atlantic. 257 

once more tread the decks of an ocean steamer. . 
I will therefore omit speaking of England and 
the characteristics of the people generally, 
especially as my readers have had frequent 
opportunities of judging of them for themselves. 
Indeed, an Englishman and a Frenchman are so 
well known to the world that it would be super- 
fluous on my part to attempt to describe either of 
them. 

On the 1 2th of September we embarked on 
board the royal mail steamship " Peruvian," 
Captain Ballantine, for Quebec via Londonderry, 
and steamed out of the Mersey late at night 
against a strong breeze of wind, which soon 
increased to a gale, and that from precisely the 
wrong point of the compass. 

The next day, when nearing Moville, and close 
into the Irish coast, we were fortunate in obtain- 
ing a good sight of the renowned Giant's Cause- 
way, and had the pleasure of passing close to 
the good ship " Hibernia," of the anchor line, 
the very ship that brought us safely from New 
York to the Emerald Isle. She was then enj'onte 
on her trip from New York to Glasgow, after 
having touched at Derry to land passengers. 
Glad were we to meet her, and to wave our 
handkerchiefs to the very gentlemanly and social 
Captain and his officers, who done so much for our 
comfort and catered so much for our pleasure and 
amusement, whereby the monotony of a tedious 
and rough sea voyage was very much lessened. 



258 O'er the Atlantic. 

.Both Captains were old acquaintances and 
recognized each other, and passed the usual 
compliments by dipping their respective colors 
in token of respect, soon after which the heavy 
engines of the " Peruvian " were stopped, for we 
were off the village of Moville, ready to receive 
the mails and passengers from Londonderry, 
for which we were detained four hours. The 
mails, forwarded during the night from London, 
together with the passengers, at last arrived, 
which occupied some considerable time in trans- 
ferring from the small steamer which came along 
side. The mail, consisting of about two hundred 
sacks of letters and newspapers, Avere put on 
board first, then the passengers, none of whom 
were permitted to come on board before the 
last mail bag was given in charge of the govern- 
ment mail agent. " Keep back until the mail is 
delivered," was the order given to the anxious pas- 
sengers huddled together on tliedeck of the tender, 
followed by the hasty and gruff remark, " Make 
room! INLake room for the mail I" Thought I 
to myself, as I leaned over the side of the ship 
watching the transfer of Her Majesty's letter bags, 
Mr. Mail is ^^ some pumpkins^'' and must be of 
considerable more importance than the human 
race. At last Mr, Mail was safely on board, and 
the Messieurs passengers were allowed to leave 
the little craft, whereon many were about half 
sea sick. Then the ponderous engines were 
again put in motion, and the stately vessel 



I 



O'er the Atlantic. 259 



*ded out towards the Atlantic against a strong 
•ale of wind, and ere long many there were 
mong us who, were inclined for anything else 
han replenishing the stomach. Of all the 
aaladies extant— if it may be so termed— 1 
-erily believe from what I have witnessed, that 
;ea sickness is the worst. 

Thinking that an account of the passage across 
he ocean may not be very interesting to my 
i-eaders, it being of about the same daily routine, 
\ will omit giving a detailed account, and con- 
ent mvself with stating that after a very stormy 
oassage, during which the wind was " dead an 
2nd," we, on the 20th of the month, sighted 
Belie Isle, with several immense icebergs right 
and left of us.* At 5 p. m. we passed through the 
straits and exchanged signals with the light- 
house keeper on that very barren, desolate and 
weather-beaten island, where the world must be 
to him almost a blank. On we sped, without 
slackening speed, leaving him in his solitude, 
and perhaps, as contented and happy as if ming- 
ling with the gay and fashionable people in a 
bustling city of the world. That night we 
steamed along the coast of Labrador, heading 
direct for the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at 10 
p. M. the next day we were in smooth water, 

* Icebergs are known to be near long before they are 
seen. Sailors say they smell them, especially when to 
windward of the ship— a cold air is easily leit. 



2 6o O'er the Atlantic. 

off the Island of Antacosta in the gulf. Quite a' 
treat to all after the severe weather we had 
encountered throughout, and the occasion wasj 
rendered the more pleasing when evening came, 
in witnessing that beautiful phenomenon the 
northern light or aurora borealis, which so fre- 
quently adorn those latitudes, and which were of 
the brightest and most beautiful description. 

We had a most pleasant time steaming up the 
gulf, but on our arrival in the river St. Law- 
rence we were detained off Father Point, where 
the pilot came on board, for five hours, owing to 
an accident to some part of the machinery, which 
at last being repaired, we proceeded at a rapid 
speed up the beautiful river, the scenery on 
which, and that optical illusion the mirage, 
ahead and astern of the ship, was beautiful to 
behold. 

On the afternoon of the 23d we were running 
along the Island of Orleans, a few miles below 
Quebec, with the citadel of the city to be seen in 
the distance ; and at 8 p. m. the " Peruvian" got 
into her dock, making the passage from Liver- 
pool under the most unfavorable circumstances 
in eleven days, of which the following is her log, 
givmg the latitude and longitude, and distance 
run each day : 



O'er the Atlantic. 



261 



Date. 



' Lat. 
[o p. M. Sept. i2j ^ 3 



i4!55 55 12 15 



Lon. iMiles. 
W. i 



o — • 

Cfq 3 



56 19 

17155 29 

18,54 19 

19153 25 



19 41 
27 50 
35 46 
42 33 
47 33 



20J52 07153 47 

I I 



21:50 I7i59 " 

' ! I 

22i49 2465 20| 



Distance run, 



190 
191 

250 

274 
270 

245 

•185 

245 



250 
270 

288 
2658 



Remarks. 

Left Liverpool, 

Arrived at Moville. 

Blowing hard and much 
sea. 

More moderate. 

Blowing very hard. 

More moderate. 

Wind increasing. 

Severe gale and head 
sea. 

More moderate— among 
icebergs — very cold — 
made Belle Isle. 

Calm— in the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence. 

Pleasant, mild weather 
going up St. Law- 
rence, many ships in 
company. 

Arrived at Quebec 7 
p. M. 

Contrary winds whole 
passage. 

The '' Peruvian" is owned by the Montreal 
Ocean Royal Mail Steamship Company, is a 
large vessel of great power, and an excellent 
sea boat; but I must say that the officers of the 
ship are not of that kind which officered the 
" Hibernia," of the anchor line, on our passage 
to Europe. The latter were kind, sociable and 
agreeable, and the former quite the reverse, 
unkind, unsociable and disagreeable, the Captain 
a regular old salt, blunt, uncourteous and undig- 
nified in his manner and conversation, but a 
good sailor no doubt. So we left the good ship 
"Peruvian" without a single regret, and were 



262 O'er the Atlantic. 

quickly driven to our hotel, named the St. Louis, 
where we were well entertained. In my next I 
will give an account of Quebec, the passage up 
the river to Montreal, &c. 



O'er the Atlantic, 263 



LETTER XXIX. 

CANADA. 

OuEBEC— The next morning after we arrived 
in "this remarkable city, erected on a hill, we 
hired a caleche (carriage), and proceeded to see 
the city and its environs, driving first to see the 
Citadel, which is erected on the summit over- 
looking the Plains of Abram and the country lor 
many miles on both sides of the river. 

On our arrival within the massive walls and 
ponderous gates of bar and chain, we were taken 
in charge by one of the guard, then off duty, and 
politely shown everything that was interesting 
to strangers. 

A delightful view is obtained from the ram- 
parts of the city beneath, with its narrow and 
intricate streets, of the entrance to the harbor, 
with Point Levi and the Island of Orleans m the 
distance, as also of the naval and mercantile 
ships at anchor, and moored alongside their 
docks. There we stood looking directly down 
upon their decks, enabled to observe every move- 
ment made by the officers and crews under their 



264 O'er the Atlantic. 

command while performing their work. It was 
on that spot stood the Prince of Wales, w4ien on 
a visit to Quebec some years previous, a stone 
having the Crown and Feathers, with the motto, 
'' Ich Dien" over his name aad date inscribed, 
marks the spot in commemoration of the 
event, and away to our right and near by was 
the steep rock or cliff w^here fell General Mont- 
gomery, during the French and English struggle 
for possession. An old sign, very much obliter- 
ated by the action of the w^eather, announces the 
fatal circumstance in a few words : " Here fell 
Montgomery," etc. 

Leaving the Citadel, we proceed to the Plains 
of Abram, whereon was fought the great battle 
so fatal to the French, and which was gained by 
the British at a great sacrifice, counting among 
their slain the brave and accomplished General 
Wolfe. A monument of no mean pretensions is 
erected on the spot w^here he breathed his last, 
just as victory croAvned the day. 

When a boy serving my apprenticeship at 
sea, I made a few voyages from Wales to 
Quebec. It was about the years 1840-41, upon 
which occasion I visited the Plains of Abram. 
At that time Wolfe's monument was simply a 
round stone pillar of perhaps, including its base, 
ten feet high, inscribed, " Here died Wolfe." It 
had, and was then undergoing daily a great deal 
of abuse, caused by children and thoughtless 
persons throwing stones at it until at last the 



O'er the Atlantic. 265 

government erected, at a considerable outlay, the 
present more appropriate and handsome struc- 
ture which, like its plain and unassuming prede- 
cessor has, I regret to state, already been very 
much defaced from the same cause. The vast 
plain of those days has undergone great change, 
for very little of it is left but that has been 
occupied by buildings of various kinds. Apart 
from this change, Quebec seemed to me to have 
scarcely changed its appearance, unless it was for 
the worse. The Lower Town, in the neighborhood 
of the shipping, had improved none, and the 
buildings along Champlain street were in the 
last stages, with but few exceptions, of rot and 
decay, while the street was in a filthy and danger- 
ous condition. But I must away and conduct 
my readers to the Falls of Montmorency, to 
which we drove from the Plains, passing on our 
way through a portion of the burned district, 
which lies between the upper part of the city and 
the Falls, and which was consumed by the 
disastrous conflagration of about three years ago 
a circumstance many of my readers will undoubt- 
edly recollect, especially as it occurred about the 
same time as that equally disastrous fire which 
partially devastated Portland, Maine, causing 
tens of thousands of the inhabitants of both 
places to seek shelter from the fiery element 
in the streets, as it spread and traveled from house 
to house, like the waves of the ocean, seeking 
all it could devour. 

L 



266 O^er the Atlantic, 

An hours' drive brought us into the neighbor- 
hood of the Falls; but ere we could proceed to 
view them, the proprietor of the grounds adjoin- 
ing demanded of us the usual entry fee — one 
quarter of a dollar each^ which we paid with any-- 
thing but good grace. 

On our arrival at the splash of water, we found 
that the river directly over the Falls had at one 
time been spanned by a suspension bridge of 
some importance. Portions of the pillars and 
some pieces of chain still remained ; but a 
terrible tale is told of its treachery, which is this: 
A man, accompanied with his wife, seated in a 
buggy, were one day crossing the bridge when,, 
horrible to relate, the chains suddenly gave way,. 
and the bridge, and its living freight, were carried 
over the Falls and thrown headlong into the- 
boiling cauldron below, and strange to say, not a; 
vestige of the remains of man, woman or horse 
nor carriage were ever found. 

Before going to see the Falls of Montmorency, 
ask yourself, have I seen those of Niagara ? If 
in the affirmative, dont go. If in the negative, 
go. For the line of comparison is so great that 
Montmorency, although higher — being 250 feet 
\i\g\\ — dwindles into insignificance when seen by 
those who have witnessed Niagara. The writer 
had not seen the latter, but after having done so, 
he almost lost all recollection of the beauty and 
grandeur of the former. 

Retracing our way back to Quebec, we could 



O'er the Atlantic. 26 ^ji 

not but recognize the similarity in the construc- 
tion of the dwellings with those of France, and 
everything aroivnd; thieni was a la Johnny Crapeau^ 
and the inhabitants speak a mongrel French. 

Before taking our departure for Montreal we 
visited several places of intere^ within the citv 
walls, a brief account of whicliy as also of the 
city's history, may not be imunteresting to many 
of my readers. 

Quebec at one time, and indeed but irereuthv 
was the capital of the Canadas, and has a p)0>pii- 
lation of probably 50,000 inhabitants'.. It iis-, 
divided into two parts, known as the Upper andl 
Lower Towns. It was taken from the French im 
1629 by the British, but restored to them in 1632,, 
and was again captured by the British in 1759,. 
when Wolfe commanded on the Plains of 
Abram, by which victory the city, with all the 
French possessions in North America, were ceded 
to Great Britain at the peace of 1763. 

The Public Gardens, where stands a monu- 
ment erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe 
and Montcalm, is in the Upper Town. The 
monument in its early days was no doubt beauti- 
ful, but now has a somewhat weather beaten 
appearance. From Durham Terrace, where form- 
erly stood the old castle of St. Louis, which was 
destroyed by fire in 1834, a splendid view of the 
river and Lower Town can be obtained. 

The Place d' Armas is an open piece of ground 
around which the old chateau of St. Lous, the 



268 O'er the Atlantic. 

Government offices, the English Cathedral and 
the Court House are located. 

The line of fortifications enclosing the Citadel 
and the Upper Town is nearly three miles in 
length, mounted with very heavy guns, mostly 
48 pounders. There are five gates to the city, 
named Prescott, Palace, Hope, St. Louis and 
St. John, and fronting the Plains of Abram are 
four Martello Towers, to impede the advance of 
an enemy from that direction. 

There are four Catholic Churches in the city, 
viz : The Roman Catliolic Cathedral, which con- 
tains some fine paintings by the old masters, the 
St. Patrick's Cathedral, St. Rock's Church and 
the Church of Notre Dame Des Victores. 
The latter is one of the oldest buildings in the 
city, but none of them have any pretensions to 
architectural beauty; as also a great many Protes- 
tant Churches, of which the English Cathedral 
is the handsomest and will seat about 4000 per- 
sons ; there are besides very many public build- 
ings, which include the Barracks, General Hos- 
pital, QuebecUniversity, the Jail, Marine Hospital 
and City Hall or Court House. 

There are a great many sights to be seen in 
and around Quebec, but it would occupy several 
days to do so ; but being while there almost I 
may say in the neighborhood of home, we were 
anxious to get away, so had to forego the further 
pleasure of rambling about, and take passage in 
the beautiful and fast river steamboat, " Quebec," 



O'er the Atlantic. 269 

at 6 p. M. oil the next day after our arrival, and 
proceeded up the river to Montreal. The accom- 
modations on this truly elegant boat were mag- 
nificent, and the charges, which included fare, 
supper and stateroom, very moderate indeed. 

At 6 A. M. the next morning, the long Victoria 
Bridge across the river at Montreal, appeared in 
sight, and soon afterwards the city, Avhich we 
reached about 6:30. We were driven to the St. 
Lawrence Hall, which we made our headquarters 
during our stay there. 

The trip from Quebec being made during the 
night, prevented us from making notes to remark 
upon the score of towns and villages which are 
situated along the banks of the river, as also of 
the islands, rapids and beautiful scenery, which I 
was informed are very much to be admired. 



2 7© O'ey the Atlantic. 



LETTER XXX. 

CANADA, CONTINUED, 

Montreal.— Montreal is the laro;est and most 
populous city in Canada, bounded on one side by 
the river Ottawa, and on the other by the St. 
Lawrence, and in connection with steamer and 
rail, it has become the commercial metropolis of 
British North America. 

It was founded in 1642, and for a longtime 
bore the name of Ville Marie. In 1763 the 
English came into possession, by force of arms, at 
which time it was surrounded by a wall, a ditch, 
fort and citadel, and the French made it the 
headquarters of their army. 

Fifty years of industry, enterprise and labor 
have done much to enlarge and beautify the old 
city; for the old French style of houses and nar- 
row streets have succumbed to those of more 
modern structure and architectural beauty ; and 
to-day, with Mount Royal in the back ground, 
covered with elegant villas, I must say that it 
makes a beautiful appearance. 

The quay wall for the accommodation of 



O'er the Atlantic. 271 

shipping is upwards of a mile in length, and is 
built of excellent stone, where ocean steamers and 
sailing vessels of large burthen, discharge and 
receive freight, and at that point terminated 
the voyage of the " Peruvian," reaching there 
in the evening of the day of our arrival. 

I will now proceed to give an account of the 
places we visited during our short stay in the 
city, and what we saw that was interesting and 
pleasing to the sight. 

As we landed from the floating palace our 
attention was soon attracted to the fine and 
imposing buildings fronting us — the Market 
and Town Hall, the lower floor of which is the 
market place, and the upper is occupied as city 
offices and a large concert hall, which will seat 
4,000 persons. 

On Jacques Cartier Square is a monument 
erected to the memory of Admiral Lord Nelson, 
aijid a little way to the left is the Court House, a 
vye.ry fiijie building. 

^p.the Place d' Armes are some very elegant 
buiidiags,, ^n,i9ng which is the Cathedral of 
Notre Dame., which will hold .10,000 people — n9 
doubt the largest church, as it is claimed to be, 
on the American continent. 

It struck me very much that tlie place was a 
second Brooklyn, for the whole neighborhood is 
studded with churches of various sects, com- 
prising Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist 
and a host of others — not even omitting that 



272 O'er the Atlantic. 

peculiar sect of which Brother Brigham is the 
Apostolic General. But of all those we entered 
I found that of the Jesuits to be the most 
imposing, and as to the interior, it is finished in 
the most elaborate style with frescoes of inci- 
dents in the lives of our Saviour and his Apostles, 
This church, no doubt, as the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame is the largest, is the finest and most elabo- 
rate of all churches in North America. 

While being driven from place to place, our 
attention was called to a very unassuming looking 
dwelling, wherein we were informed was domi- 
ciled the once notorious but now almost forgotten 
Jefferson Davis, ex-President of the once Con- 
federate States of America. How glad I would 
have been to have seen the man himself; but in 
that w^e w^ere unfortunate. The individual who 
battled for years to no purpose but that of devas- 
tation and ruin was not to be seen. 

A few remarks about the great Victoria Bridge 
e'er I take my leave of Montreal, and I will 
accompany the reader farther up the river St. 
Lawrence. 

The bridge is a wonderful structure, on the 
tubular principle, resting upon twenty-four piers, 
is a mile and a quarter long, and over it is the 
great line of traffic Avith the United States. It 
cost upwards of $7,000,000, and Avas built by Mr. 
James Hodges, under the direction of that cele- 
brated Engineer, Mr. Robert Stevenson. 

After parting with my better half^ who was 



O'er the Atlantic . 273 

joing to take rail direct for New York, and 
)idding adieu to an old companion dit voyage^ a Mr. 
Dunn, of Manchester, England, (as good a 
oul as ever crossed the Atlantic), who had 
:ome to Montreal in connection with his busi- 
less, as master machinist, I took passage on 
Doard the steamer " Kingston" for Toronto, in 
company with Lieut. Whittaker, of Her Majesty's 
53d Regiment,* and a Mr. Wolfe, of London, 
England, also fellow passengers, per " Peruvian," 
md proceeded up the river, avoiding the turbulent 
rapids by passing through canals erected at 
•an immense expense. 

\ We soon arrived at the village of Lachine, 
I below which is the swift and turbulent rapids, 
jafter a short stay, proceeded on our way; and 

i although it was the latter part of September, it 
was cold and cheerless enough in the country we 
passed through for January — a terrible cold 
country to live in, no doubt, especially in mid- 
winter. 

On our way we passed through the following 

canals, so as to avoid the various rapids : Lachine, 

j Cedars, Beauharnois, Cornwall, Farren's Point, 

Rapid Piatt, Point Iroquois and Gallop, in all 

about fifty miles long. A very tedious time we 

' had while steaming at a remarkably slow speed 

j through the narrow water bed and intricate 



*This young gentleman was killed in Quebec by the 
brother of a young lady, who he had, it was said, seduced. 



274 O'^f i^^^ Atlantic. 

locks ; but after getting through them, we were 
delighted witli the scenery which the beautiful 
river afforded us the next day. 

The first place of any note the steamer stopped 
at was Prescott, opposite which, on the " Yankee 
side" of the river, as I heard my fellow passen- 
gers say, is Ogdensburgh, a very flourishing 
town, and of far more importance than its neigh- 
bor Prescott. It has of late become better known 
as the point from which the Fenians have 
attempted frequent raids on the British Posses- 
sions. 

Prescott, on the Canadian side, is a small 
town of about 3,000 inhabitants ; and, in my 
opinion, is one of the last places that I can think 
of that I would like to reside in. A more miser- 
able, dilapidated looking place is but seldom 
seen. The old Windmill near the town is the 
place wherein the '• Patriots" under Von Sultz, a 
Polish exile, established themselves in 1837, but 
from which they were driven w4th severe loss. 

A couple of hours after leaving Prescott we 
were steaming among tlie " Thousand Islands," 
which are the wonders of the St. Lawrence. A 
thousand is no name for them, for I was told by 
the Captain of the steamer, (by the way, a very 
agreeable and sociable man), that there are very 
near double that number. A most beautiful 
sight are those islands of various sizes, viewed 
as the steamer wends her way through the chan- 
nels which separate one from the other, the pic- 



O'er the Atlantic. 275 

turesque Martello towers and light houses 
erected on several, give them an additional charm, 
and serve as landmarks to the ever watchful 
pilot. 

Immediately after passing through the islands 
we were on Lake Ontario, and the boat soon 
afterwards was alongside her wharf at Kingston, 
where we stayed two hours, affording me 
sufficient time to visit a few places, of which you 
shall read in my next. 

Kingston. — Immediately on my arrival here I 
proceeded to the British American Hotel, kept 
by an old friend, M. B. White, late of Carbon- 
dale, Pa., who was taken by surprise, but very 
glad to see me, and done all he could to make my 
short stay pleasant and agreeable. 

It was Agricultural Fair w^eek in Kingston, 
and my friend drove me out to the grounds 
w^hereon it was held. It seemed to be conducted 
with much spirit and enterprise, and the stock on 
exhibition was worth seeing. 

Kingston was founded by the French just a 
century before the British came into possession, 
w^ho changed its name from Fort Frotenac to that 
of its present title. 

A very pretty little town is Kingston, situate 
as it is on the margin of the great lake. There 
are but few if any places on the banks of that 
immense sheet of water that can compare favor- 
ably with it. It is delightfully situated, well 
laid out, is one of the most important military 



276 O'er the Atlantic 

posts in Canada, and has a population of about 
12,000 inhabitants. 

I spent a pleasant time in the company of my 
friend, who introduced me to several of his 
acquaintances, among whom was a distinguished 
member of the Canadian Government, Sir. J. A. 
MacDonald, a very plain and unassuming gentle- 
man, who was pleased to make my acquaintance, 
and treated me wnth much courtesy and respect. 

The boat was to leave Kingston at 6 p. m., and 
I had much difficulty in tearing myself away 
from my old friend, who was very desirous to 
have me stay with him a week, but I was anxious 
j| to get home to my family, so thanking him for his 
kind attention and promising to pay him another 
visit during the ensuing summer,* I took my leave 
and embarked on board the steamer just as she 
was on the point of leaving. That night we 
steamed over the beautiful lake, an ocean in 
itself, with scarcely an air of wind or a ripple to 
mar our progress, and the next day we arrived 
at 

Toronto. — This is a quite a city, it was form- 
erly called Little York. In fifty years its popu- 
lation has increased from 1,000 to 60,060, and 
at that rate of increase, its population in a few 
! years will be second to none in the British 
Provinces. 



* Wr. White sold out before the " ensuing summer " and 
returned to Carbondale, 



. O'er the Atlanhc. 277 

The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the 
:ity, which adds much, coupled with its lake 
aavigation, to its commerce. The former in 
itself is a connecting link with every place of 
'importance in the New Dominion. There are 
several fine buildings there, among which is the 
churcli of the Holy Trinity, erected at the expense 
of an English gentleman at an immense outlay, 
on condition of the free use of seats ; and I was 
informed that the main street is forty miles long^ 
i. e. I suppose it reaches into the country for 
forty miles, with dwellings along the route as 
few as "angels visits." 

Leaving Toronto I proceeded by rail via Ham- 
ilton to Niagara Falls, where I spent only two 
hours, which scarcely gave me sufficient time to 
view the world renowned Falls, and the great 
Suspension Bridge, Avhich at one time was the 
marvel of the age. 

From Niagara I took the cars for Buffalo, 
thence over the Erie road for Great Bend, con- 
necting there with the D. L. & W. R. R. for 
Scranton, which I reached the next morning, and 
that afternoon arrived at my residence in West 
Pittston, where there was much joy at my safe 
arrival home. I found my family in the enjoy- 
ment of good health, and eager to know all that 
had transpired during an absence of four months, 
and here ends my voyage to Europe ! 



278 O'er the Atlantic. 



CONCLUDING REMARKS. 

Perhaps my readers would be pleased to have 
my opinion upon Europe generally, or in other 
words draw a line of comparison between the 
old and new world. 

England and the other coun^ries that T visited 
are as much ahead of America in some instances 
as the latter is of them in others. At present we 
lack the permanency and stability which greets 
the e3'e of the American when in Europe, for 
instance, buildings, bridges, railroads and other 
structures, the handiwork of man, are con" 
structed as if to last for ages untold ; but in 
America how different, we are a " fast people," 
fast in all our doings, constructing and erecting in 
a few months that which would take double, nay 
treble the time on the other side of the Atlantic ; 
we build for the present and not for the future, 
also, the American says, "time is money, labor is 
x^expensive," and he is in a hurry to realize from 
the investment, a large per centage, for the 
principal from which it is derived is not going to 
last long. With the European it is otherwise, 



O'er the Atlantic. 279 

time is no consideration, not because labor is 
cheap, acting as an apology for time, but because 
the durability of the investment is a sure guar- 
antee of a handsome return, at a moderate per 
centage ere the principal crumbles to decay ; 
therefore in my opinion, to be a "cent wise and 
a dollar foolish" is poor policy. Let us emulate 
the Mother country in the works of permanency 
and durability, and our capatalists will soon find 
the vast benefits to be derived from that which 
has been well done, besides being a great protec- 
tion to life and capital. 

So let us hope that when our country has 
existed as a nation for centuries, for it is in its 
youth as yet, that it wnll be as thorough and perma- 
nent in every respect, if not more so, than any 
other country on the globe. 

But again, America can crow^ louder than 
Europe, in catering for the comfort and conve- 
nience of her people ; for as I have had occasion 
to remark during wvy voyage, our hotel, saloon and 
traveling system is a century ahead of theirs, our 
steamboats and railway cars are moving palaces 
w^hen compared to the dirty, confined and badly 
ventilated little river and channel steamboats 
whicli ply in British waters, and the horrid passen- 
ger cars (cattle boxes I may almost say), which 
traverse British railways, then their baggage or 
" luggage" system is abominable, the traveler is 
always " in a sweat" about his trunks, for which 
he has received no checks., and which he is con- 



28o O'er the Atlantic. 

tiniially looking and inquiring for on his arrival 
at stations where he has to change carriages. 
Picture in your imagination the foreigner, per- 
haps unable to speak the language, endeavoring 
to single out his baggage, followed by half 
dozen begging railway porters, who condescend 
to remove it for him in consideration of back- 
seesh, and who, after the traveler has taken his 
seat in the carriage, walk up to the carriage 
door, makes a rustic bow by tugging at the hair 
of his head, and remarking with a winning 
smile and a grin, " Ma-ster, you'l find your low- 
gage zur on top of saventh or aighth carrage 
forard, yez zur," followed by another tug, smile 
and a grin, then is handed him a piece of coin 
which he slyly accepts with a ''thankee' zur.'' 
vSo are you pestered throughout your journey, 
always in charge and responsible for your own 
baggage, for which you have to pay fleecing 
porters in the employ of the company, or run 
the risk of having it left behind. 

There is a vast difference in the style of living 
between Europeans and Americans generally, 
which in part may be attributed to our Republi- 
can Institutions, and to the amount paid for 
labor, for the United States classes far ahead of 
all Europe in giving compensation for labor; for 
instance, a good artisan will obtain here from 
three to five dollars per day, while in Great 
Britain, a person possessing the same ability will 
receive from three shillings and sixpence to seven 



O'er the Atlantic. 



281 



shillings and sixpence per day,* and in France 
from three to five francs per day. In Germany, 
S^vitzerland and Russia the average is much 
lower, indeed, I may say, almost a mere pittance 
in comparison even with France. 

Having obtained the daily necessaries of life, 
the Europeans, /. e. the laboring class, leave the 
style of dress, the extreme of fashion, to persons 
of wealth and position, and are content with a 
less unpretending style, indeed, I may say, that 
they generally adopt the primitive costumes, 
leaving even an attempt at fashion to the middle 
classes, or men and women in business, clerks, 
&c., who put it on very sparingly. 

A servant girl who would ape her mistress 
with white satin bonnet trimmed with flowers, 
and a heap of hair as large as a peck measure, 
with veil, parasol and flounced dress, would 
- be laughed and jeered at in the street for pre- 
suming to ape her betters. They are expected 
invariably to dress befitting their station in life. 
Then so far as dieting is concerned, in par- 
taking of the necessaries to sustain life, they are 
very frugal, seldom or ever partaking but the 
plainest of food and no variety. Very simple 
fare indeed is that generally made use of. It 
takes but very little to sustain life if we but par- 
take of that only which is beneficial to health. 
To be 'temperate in all things is the true phi- 

* Laborers get from los. to 15s. per week, and farm labor- 
ers less than that even. 



^^^ O'er the Atlantic. 

losophy of living. Would I could say as much 
of Americans, but I cannot. There is more truth 
than fiction in the remark, "We eat fast, drink 
tast, work fast and die fast." 

That we are degenerating, physically, both 
,male and female, especially the latter, there is 
jbut h^tle doubt, who need more— shall I say 
.exercise .^ Then would they come forth with the 
it^lpom of health mantling their cheeks, and a 
ifirm step, denoting sound health, comfort and 
)l^,app;ii^ess.— In Europe a young lady immedi- 
ately after n^iarriage is anxious^t^p enter upon her 
liousehold duties, so that she may^how how skill- 
ful she is in the various duties ;JiL,ppertaining to ! 
the kitchen and laundry. To go .^.nd board in 
a hotel or elsewhere, would be considered by a 
married couple the greatest of absurdities. 

^ must now draw these remarks to a close, and 
T^t^r>K^.t that I have said nothing herein to dis- 
^please.^^iiy of my fair readers, but trust the facts 
lA^^rrate^'.w^.ill be accepted in the spirit they are 
-^X^tQifi—fprdheir benefit. 



Appendix. 

I TO TOURISTS AND OTHERS. 

As little or nothing has been said in the preceding pages 
aching the expense and manner of traveling to and in 
rirope, 1 would respectfully submit the following pertinent 
I marks to the consideration of those who may at some 
jcure time have occasion to visit that country: 
There are but few, in proportion of the thousands who go 
Europe yearly from this country, who have not to study 
onomy (more or less), during the journey. I shall there- 
re confine myself in the few remarks I am about to make, 
ore particularly to that subject. 

To make a voyage to Europe in these days is not that 
hich it wastwenty years ago and upwards. In those days 
seemed as quite .an undertaking, and it took a person of 
I ore than ordinary J3,evve when not compelled to go to 
ladertake it. Months werjs occupied by persons in making 
ip. their minds. to; undertake ;a .long and perilous voyage, for 
.frequently took as many weeks .as it now takes days to 
scomplish.the passage. Very extqns.iv^e preparations were 
mdc, friends and acquaintances talked ,of it, as if they 
<ene me-ver to meet again, and when the time came to depart 
, ley assembled araund the voyager to bid him farewell, with 
loistened eyes and hearts too full for utterance,. as though 
ley were committing his body to the deep ; but now in the 
ays of steamships, of the most approved build, with engines 
f immense power, which, when once put in' motion in the 



'hi 



284 Appendix. 

bay of New York, never cease working* until the ship 
arrival in an European port. 

Indeed, a voj'age to and from Europe, has ceased to 1 
thought of as anything extraordinary outside the dai 
occurrences of life. A person makes up his mind to-d; 
and is gone to-morrow.f Thousands upon thousands of 01 
people yearly, from the millionaire and merchant prince, 
the laboring man, cross the great Atlantic highway withoiV, 
scarcely giving it a thought. All the world and their wive 
go, some on business, others on pleasure, and manv to vis 
relatives and friends ; but to the point. 

Having made up your mind to go, it is not necessary yo 
should make any preparation outside of setting " yoi 
house in order," i. e. if you are in business, arrange that 
much as possible to your satisfaction, insure your life, an 
lastly, if you have anything to leave, make your will, for no 
withstanding the short time it takes to go and come, there 
still more or less danger attached to the voyage, of which w 
have had of late, I am sorry to say, abundant cvideni 
Yet withal, we are as liable and are frequently called awa 
from off terra firma as suddenly as those who make th, 
ocean their temporary home. A small trunk or valise, larg 
enough to contain an extra suit of clothes, a Scotch cai 
half a dozen shirts, half a dozen pair of socks, with th 
necessary under garments, a pair of slippers, and you 
toilet articles, together with a shawl or overcoat on your arn 
is all you need, for when you arrive in Europe you ca 
purchase clothing of very superior quality for at least ha 
the price you can here. There is no doubt of this even wit 
our currency at par. I advise from experience, for purchas 



* There are exceptions, but they are very rare. Night ani 
day are they kept going until arrival of the ship in port. 

f A friend of the author's left the port of New York upo 
two or three occasions, within a couple of hours after rnakini 
up his mind to go. 



Appendix. 285 

u will when you get there, so be content with a small and 
iifFerent wardrobe when starting. 

As regards the amount of money necessary to pay the 
penses of, sav a three months trip, with gold as it is now, 
I 15, I would estimate the amount at $500 in gold, which 
,m would be amplv sufficient to enable any respectable 
^rson to make the trip we did in a pleasant and comfort- 
Die manner, which would include cabin passage to and 
\ * hotels, railway fares, incidental expenses, and a decent 
■!ipplv of necessary articles of clothing and souvenirs, with 
Ihich sum procure a letter of credit of Brown Bros., New 
'' ork, on Brown, Shipley & Co., of London, or any other 
'Sspectable house ot the kind, for its equivalent in pounds 
• erling, the safest and best, as well as most convenient 
"ivestment a traveler can make, for it entitles him to draw 
pom any bank such sums as he actually requires to carry 
im from place to place, and at the same time the amount or 
alances in the banker's hands is accruing interest. 

Your passage money being paid, you are assigned a state 
oom or berth on board the steamer, and you are ready to 
jmbark. The hour having arrived for you to be on board, 
^ou are there, where perhaps every face you encounter is a 
granger to you, and you feel amid the din and bustle on 
Doard, where everything at the time is confusion, that you 
ilmost repent the steps you have taken. The moorings are 
oeing cast off, the pilot is in charge, and in a few minutes 
the sliip is steaming down the bay, and in as many hours you 
are on the blue Atlantic, far away from those you perhaps 
>ove better than all the world beside. Then a change 
comes over you. You feel depressed, heavy. You reel to 
and fro. Wonder what is the matter. Ah ! my " fresh water 
sailor," you are sea sick. Yes, very. Down you go to 

* Per Inman, Anchor or National line of steamers, -AX first 
class and inexpensive lines, commanded by experienced and 
gentlemanly officers. A second cabin, intermediate or 
Iteerage passage would decrease the cost in proportion ; 
but the latter I would not recommend to any person. 



286 Appendix. 

your berth, which you find with difficulty; and there lay 
yourself down " more dead than alive," not caring whether 
you survive or not, and wishing from the bottom of your 
heart that you had remained on terra finna. But it is too 
late, there are no back doors to run through, so you must 
be content, and there I leave you for perhaps two or three 
days. 

You are now three days out. You are on deck, seated, 
not walking, for as yet you have not your " sea legs" under 
you. You "feel better, yes, much," and wish you "could 
eat something ;" but alas, " cannot retain anything on your 
stomach." There are none but your fellow passengers that 
sympathise with you, all of whom, perhaps, are as sick as 
yourself, for it is a common occurrence ; but day by day you 
gain strength, and with it comes back your appetite, and by 
the time you are on the banks off Newfoundland, you are- 
perfectly well, have become acquainted with some congenial! 
spirits and reconciled to your fate. Then, when weather 
permits, follows the usual games, gotten up through the 
kindness and courtesy of the officers, who know well how 
to wile away the monotony of a voyage at sea. By and by 
you strut up and down the quarter deck arm in arm with, 
perhaps, one of the gentler sex, with the dignity of a son of 
Neptune, forgetful of the past and hopeful of the future 
Thus you go along from day to day avoiding all familiarity, 
being simply courteous and polite to all you come in con- 
tact with, till at last the ship has arrived at her port of des- 
tination, and all is hurry and bustle to get on shore. Not 
so with you. Take it coolly, there is time enough, for the 
"last shall be first." You leave the ship in good time, 
having, while apparently loitering, satisfied yourself by 
inquiries made of several persons who have come on board, 
Of a good, respectable second class hotel to sojourn at, by 
which you have, notwithstanding your seeming tardiness, 
gained time; 

And now that you are safely over, a choice of route from 
the point of debarkation (if the one we took will not suit). 



j Appendix. 287 

'lust be left to yourself, which has to be governed by taste, 
iioney and time. But go wherever you may, there is no 
xcuse for you putting up unless you desire it, at first-class 
nd expensive hotels, for in Europe, especially in Great 
Jritain, you can get very superior and select accommo- 
ation, with every polite attention shown you, in plenty of 
espectable hotels and coffee houses for one-third the cost 
harged in the first-class hotels. For instance, and by way 
)f comparison, read the following bills, both being served 
o order : 

THE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
(style.) 

Tea, 2s. 6d., supper, 2s., 

Lodgings, 

Breakfast, - - - - . • 

Dinner, . . - - ■ 

Attendance, . - - - • 

Total per day, - - - - £0. i6s. od. 
Without wine, which you are expected to call for (say 5s. 
more), a sum equal to five dollars of American gold. 

THE SECOND-CLASS HOTEL. 

(comfort.) 

Tea, (cold meat, ham or chops), .... Jo. is. 6d^ 

Lodging, (good accommodation) is. 6d. 

Breakfast, (fish, steak, chops, or ham and 

eggs), ...---- ^ - - - - IS. 8di 

Dinner, (roast and boiled meats, with vege- 
tables, pastry, &c.), ------- 2s. od; 

Total per day, ^o. 6s. 8d; 

Add to the latter occasionally, a trifle for attendance and 
a couple of glasses of ale, in all about one shilling additional; 

There are, however, houses quite as respectably conducted, 
that you can live at a much cheaper rate than even 6s 



^0. 


4S. 

2S. 

3s. 


6d. 
6d. 
od, 






- 


3s. 


6d. 


to 


5S. 


- 


2S. 


6d. 







ll 



288 Appendix, 

Sd. per day, or $1.50 of our American money.* I simply 
quote prices of hotels that will compare favorably with first 
and second-class American hotels. f 

In Europe, like most countries, you will find plenty " on 
the make," and as Americans are known to be very liberal,' 
they are the more imposed upon. You might give, give all 
day and to no purpose ; but be guided by your own good 
judgment in that respect. When attendance is charged for 
in the bill, I see no necessity of giving to servants, yet 
they expect it, waiters especially. Cabs and omnibuses are 
(juite an institution, and are conducted upon a system that 
unless you are very stupid you cannot be overcharged, 
carrying you for a very reasonable compensation to any 
point you wish to go.:}: I wish I could say as much of the ' 
cabs in the city of New York. 

Then, while on the road, travel in a third-class passenger 
car. You are perfectly safe and free from insult, and In- 
doing so you save half the fare you would pay in a second- 
class carriage, and two-thirds that you would have to pay- 
in a first-class carriage ; and putting aside the style, the 
luxury of, and riding more select, you ride a la Amoiquc, 
lacking style and conveniences only, traveling equally as 
fast as your fellow passengers who have the pleasure or 
privilege of paying half or two-thirds more to travel by 
the same train. Indeed, gentlemen of wealth, position and 
refinement (unaccompanied by ladies), can be seen riding 
daily in third-class carriages in (xreat Britain. The fares are 
id., 2d. and 3d. per mile. In conclusion: Always look well 

* Among which, especialh'^ in London, and other large 
places, there are houses termed " Commercial Boarding 
Hotels," or small unlicensed private hotels. Such houses 
combine economy Avith the comforts of a home. 

f Living on the Continent is much cheaper than in Great 
Britain. 

\ The laws regulating cab hire are very strict in London 
and Paris, and are as strictly observed by the Jehus. 



Appendix. 289 

to your baggage, if you have any apart from yourself, for there 
is no system adopted like that in United States for the 
transportation of baggage, and if heavy to handle you will 
find it necessary to fee a railway porter occasionally, so as 
to prevent it being left behind, especially at a point where 
you have to change cars. And in France you have the 
additional trouble of submitting it to be searched thoroughly 
at the depot, your ticket too, where it has to go through 
quite a quantity of red tape, apart from which I think the 
baggagfe system preferable to that of Great Britain. 

And now having said all that I deem necessary for the 
guidance of those contemplating a trip to Europe, I will 
lay my pen aside, and bid you a final adieu. 

THE AUTHOR. 



M 



The Author's Address, 

DELIVERED BEFORE THE " P. C. C," ON THE OCCASION OF HIS 

RETURN FROM EUROPE, AND IN REPLY TO THE 

FOLLOWING SENTIMENT : 

" The health of Capt. Whyte and lady — may their recent 
tour to the Old World, and their return to their family and 
friends, be an epoch in their lives of continued happiness 
and sweet reminiscences long to be remembered by them." 

Worthy Chief and Clansmen of the Pittston Cale- 
donia Club : I have no language sufficient tp express 
myself on this occasion, for I feel somewhat deficient in 
that, sometimes vulgarly called gab, and in the first place for 
fear I may make a break down, permit me to thank you for 
this very kind reception. A reception as flattering as it is 
undeserving, for 1 am not aware of my having done any 
thing to deserve so much of your notice, and although I 
have not been in the habit of making speeches, /. e. speaking 
in public — I must nevertheless in return for so much kind- 
ness, do my endeavor to give you a brief account of my late 
trip to Europe, but believe me, I would rather walk a mile 
than talk a minute. 

The 8th of June saw me leave this country, and after a 
stormy passage of fourteen days I landed in Auld Ireland, a 
country as green as that gem it is so often compared to ; 
well may it be called the Emetald Isle for a beautiful and 
picturesque country \s-£riii indeed, and her people a warm 
hearted and generous race. I visited and passed through 
many of the cities and towns of Ireland, among which I 



Appendix. '. 291 

may name Londonderry, Belfast and Dublin, all of which 
pleased me very much, but to give you an account of all I 
saw in Ireland and elsewhere, is more of a task than I could 
accomplish this evening, you must therefore excuse me from 
dwelling at length on the beauty, industry, commerce and 
habits, of various places and the people, and allow me to 
cross the Irish channel into old Cymru. 

Wales, Gwalia, land of my nativity, with its cloud- 
capped hills and delightful vales, the land of mirth and 
song, abounding with antiquities, sacred to the Briton's 
heart, had undergone great and many changes ; indeed, such 
had been the march of improvement that had it not been for 
some old land marks still left, I would have scarcely believed 
it to be the kind of my birth. Many dear relatives and old 
friends had gone to their long home, and but few remained 
to welcome him who had spent some twenty-eight years of 
his life in foreign lands, but those few, who, like myself, had 
been permitted to linger a little longer on this old planet, 
vied with each other to make my sojourn among them as 
pleasant and agreeable as possible. Oh ! how delightful it 
was to meet and discourse with old friends, to wander over 
spots where I had played in my youth, to visit the old church 
yard wherein lay all that was once mortal of those so nearly 
allied to me, and to survey with solemn thought and admi- 
ration the castellated ruins of Cambria's ancient fortresses — 
such was my enjoyment, that when the time came for me to 
once more bid farewell to all, and to so much that was dear and 
familiar to me, I could scarcely articulate the word " good 
bye," Leaving Wales I went into 

Old England, the land wherein my father first saw the 
light, dear to me, if only for that reason. He was born in 
the great city of London, now perhaps the largest city in the 
world, commercially it certainly is. London with its Metro- 
politan under ground railway, traversing through dark 
labyrinths beneath its ever busy and thronged streets, and 
spanning the great city with its i/iree million of inhabitants, 
from east to west, is a marvel in itself; while such places as 



292 Appendix. 

the British Museum with its hordes of antiquities, Westmin- 
ster Abbey with its colossal monuments of various ages^ 
National Gallery, with its beautiful pictures, the Tower with 
its dungeons, cells and armory glittering with ancient and 
modern instruments of war and torture, and other places o^ 
much note must be seen to be appreciated. 

While in England I visited many of its cities and towns, 
for instance the great commercial cities of Manchester, Liv- 
erpool and Bristol, and other places, seeing all that I deemed 
worthy of note, and then crossed over channel to 

France. — Landing at Dieppe, I proceeded direct to 
Paris, the centre of Parisian life. Of France, I may truly say 
that Paris is France. Commercially it is not, for there is but 
little done in commerce, in proportion to the size and popu- 
lation, but otherwise I may call it France. A wonderful city 
is Paris, now claimed to be the finest city in the world, exter- 
nally it may be, for with its broad avenues, public drives and 
promenades, its public and lofty buildings of beautiful 
architecture, white as marble, some of which arc gorgeous 
with the spoils of war, it certainly is not only beautiful but 
magnificent. I was fortunate enough to be there during the 
Fetes de Napoleon, a national holiday like that of our Fourth 
of July, upon which occasion the French people don their 
best apparel and go in for lots of enjoyment, and the whole 
city at night is brilliantly illuminated. The Champs Elysees, 
which is the finest of the public drives or promenades, the 
Place de la Coticorde, Place de Vendome, the Pt4e Rh'oliy the 
gardens of the Tuilleries and other places, with their tens of 
thousands of gas lights, shaded with red and white glass 
globes, formed the most brilliant spectacle I ever witnessed 
— it was fairy land on earth. 

The Exposition, a decided success, is the most admirable 
and well arranged building that the human mind could 
possibly conceive for such a purpose, i. e. the interior, so 
well arranged is it, that the visitor cannot fail to see all that 
is on exhibition, and so far as products are concerned, every 
civilized nation on the globe is represented there, yes, even 



Appendix. 293 

in language, costume, habit and diet. For instance, in the 
American Restaurant, a beautiful place, a la Ameriqtte, could 
the indomitable Yankee hear his native tongue spoken 
freely, dine on pork and beans, and assuage his thirst with 
a gin cock tail, brandy smash, mint julep, sherry cobbler, or 
with any of the multifarious cooling drinks out of one of 
the most modern of American soda fountains. 

Now a few words about the exterior of this great hidden 
building. So insignificant is the appearance of it, that there 
is no line of comparison to be drawn between it and that 
erected in Hyde Park, London, in 185 1, evidence of which 
can be seen at Sydenham to-day, the finest and most mag- 
nificent place of the kind no doubt in the world. A won- 
derful monument to the indomitable will and energy of the 
British people ; but to my theme. 

While in Paris I visited places of rare antiquity, and saw 
the finest statuary, pictures and paintings (those around and 
in the Palace of the Louvre and Versailles especially), that 
the most talented artists or old masters ever produced ; 
pictures to be counted by the mile.- As they hang on the 
lofty walls, imagine to yourselves walking and viewing seven 
miles of pictures, but such is the fact at Versailles. 

Before bidding adieu to France, I visited ancient Rouen, 
the old capital of Normandy, now styled from its numerous 
cotton factories, the Manchester of France. I was very 
much interested with every thing I saw there, so full of 
antiquities is it, and in the neighborhood are the scenes of 
many hard fought battles waged between the hostile armies 
of England and France. 

In conclusion of my remarks on France, I may say that 
aside of the magnificence and beauty of Paris, with its sur- 
roundings and antiquated Rouen, that I saw nothing to 
interest me elsewhere or on my route, Paris being as I 
remarked before, France. Gobbling up immense sums of 
the people's money to make and keep it so ; yet with all its 
finery and gaiety it needs much sanitary reform, it needs less 
water in the public fountains, of which there are thousands 



2 94 Appendix, 

perhaps, and more in the public and private dwellings, and 
lastly, the able superintendence of a Board of Health, such 
as that of New York and elsewhere ; but I am inclined to 
think that ere reformation takes place, rebellion will have 
done more than can be undone for generations untold. 

I have occupied your attention somewhat longer than I 
intended, but will have to crave it for a short time longer, so 
as to make a few remarks respecting. 

Scotland. — The land which gave the majority of you 
birth, the land of a Bruce, a Wallace, a Burns, and a Scott, 
and from which our Club takes its name. Having one fine 
day reached Carlisle after a stay of a few days at the Wind- 
ermere Lakes, the iron horse soon propelled me over the 
border, and steaming along at a more than rapid rate soon 
found myself in Melrose, there to see the old Abbey, of 
which Sir Walter Scott gives so fine a description in his lay 
of the " Last Minstrel." It is even now a magnificent 
specimen of Gothic architecture. Then how grand it must 
have been in its day, unrivalled no doubt. I must continue my 
journey north, " for time is on the wing." Away the iron 
horse sped once more, ganging along the banks of the 
" lovely Tweed," rendered so famous in the poetry of Burns, 
away pass princely Abbottsford, once the abode of Scotia's 
genius, Creichton and Borthwick Castles, famous in the time 
of the ill-fated Mary, and I am soon in sight of the Firth of 
Forth, and ere long in Edinboro. 

A beautiful city indeed is the modern Athens, I except not 
even gay Paris, for it pleased me the most, and when I say 
that if circumstances would permit I would like to reside 
there, which in itself is sufficient to convince' you of how 
much I was struck with its natural beauty and grandeur. 
While here we visited the Castle, saw Queen Mary's room 
wherein James VI was born, the regalia of Scotland's 
Kings and Queens, Holyrood Palace, Scott's and other 
monuments and many other places of note. 

I know that you would like to hear me speak of all I 



Appendix, 295 

saw in Scotland, "but it can't be did," suffice it to say that 
among others, I visited Linlithgow, the favorite resort of the 
Stuarts, the field of Bannock-burn, wherein " Scots wha hae 
wi' Wallace bled," was in Stirling Castle, saw the Douglas 
room, and the Wallace monument on the Abbey Craig, now 
approaching I am glad to say completion. 

I was in Dumbarton, smoky and busy Glasgow, and pic- 
turesque Ayr, where I saw the Wallace Tower and the 
" Twa Brigs," and sat in the room wherein the Bard says, 
" The nicht drave on wi sangs and clatter, 
And ay the ale was growing better." 

There sat myself down gently in the old arm chairs of 
Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny, and drank in moderation 
mind, out of that old cup, the contents of which at one 
time, we are informed, so completely turned poor Tam's 

brain. 

I was in the immortal Burns' native cottage, and I saw the 
Very spot where, as he says, 

<' A blast o' Janwar' win, 

Blew hansel in on Robin." 
Visited AUoway Kirk, saw the grave of the father of 
Robin and that of Souter Johnny, the great Bard's monu- 
ment, a temple of classic beauty, Tam O'Shanter and Souter 
Johnny, looking as natural as life, and the Auld Brig o' 
Doon, whereon 

" The Carlin claught her by the rump,^ 
And left puir Maggie scarce a stump.' 

On the auld Brig, recently restored, I, like thousands of 
others, admirers of the poet, rudely inscribed my name on 
it, and should either of you ever visit there you will find it on 
the tenth stone which surmounts the right hand wall gMiging 
north ; and now having satisfied myself by visiting old 
Scotia, I have to tell you truthfully, well may it be called 
Bonnie, for its scenery is grand, picturesque and sublime, 
the blooming heather covering the mountain tops as with a 
purple mantle, and that I am not at all surprised at Sandy's 
intense love and admiration for his bonnie Scotland. 



ERRATA. 

Page 17. Preface — Note. — For "tripe," read "stripe." 

Page 34. Note — For "wind off right bow," read "wind off 
left bow." 

Page 39. Last Hue — For "composed of beef steak," rcul 
"comprised of beefsteak." 

Page 62. Eighth line from bottom — For "Fort of Cybi," 
read " Fort of Gybi." 

Page 64. Note. — For " Burhyn Slate (Juarries," read 
" Peurhyn Slate Quarries." 

Page 6g. Last line. — For "hands of Morpheus." read 
" arms of Morpheus." 

Page 80. Eighth line from top — For " 4000 men." read 
" 400 men." 

Page 94. Sixth line from top — For ' cousin to Robert 
Peel," read "cousin to Sir Robert Peel." 

Page 88. Fifth line from bottom — For " Glanmorgan," 
read " Glamorgan." 

Page 97. First line — For "the former two places," read 
" the former and latter places." 

Page 118. Last line — For " Caer Odor," read " Caer 
Oder." 

Page 145. Second line from top — For " Goberlin tapes- 
try," read "Gobelin tapestry." 

Same page. Fourteenth line from top — For " Verri," 
read "Verrio." 

Page 169. Eleventh line from top — For " Catharine de 
Medicis," read " Marie de Medicis." 

Page 171. Sixth line from bottom — For " Princess fo 
Navarre," read " Princess of " Navarre." 

Page 182. Eleventh line from bottom — For " it r ui luri- 
ously by," read " as it ran furiousl}- by." 

Page T91. Third line from top— For " hemlet," read 
" helmet." 



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